Oil ?
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 471
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From: Orlando, FL
I think we should remember that which oil (in regards to weight) should be used in your vehicle depends highly on the application of your vehicle. Specifying one weight of oil for every vehicle in the nation, regardless of use and climate, seems ridiculous to me.
If you live in a hot climate (as I do in Florida) and drive your truck at a high RPMs for performance or towing, a heavier/thicker oil is going to provide better protection for your engine. I use 15W-50 March-October and 10W-30 November-February. If you live in a cooler/milder climate and use your truck for normal (sensible) non-heavy duty daily driving, a 5W-20 will probably protect your engine adequately.
As mentioned previously, a heavier oil does cause more friction, and thus a decrease in fuel economy. But this decrease is minor, especially when comparing 5W-20 to 5W-30. This should be the least of your worries when considering which oil to use. You should be primarily concerned with the longevity of your vehicle.
As for synthetic vs. non-synthetic, this is an old and much-debated argument. Most findings from respectable sources I've read have found that non-synthetic oils protect and lubricate engines equally as well as synthetic oils, provided they are changed regularly. The advantage of synthetic oils is that they are less likely to get burned off, and will likely last longer. This doesn't necessarily mean you should wait longer between oil changes, but it means you could in a pinch.
For my money, I always use Mobil 1 full synthetic oils. Like I said, I run my truck at high revs and don't like to worry about oil levels between oil changes, so I use the synthetic (less likely to burn off). Mobil 1 full synthetics have gotten consistently high reviews as to quality, and are still moderately priced (in comparison to Red Line oils, which are great, but over 50% more expensive).
Where you can make a big dent is with the oil filter. I forget where I read the article, but I read a great article reviewing a wide variety of main-stream oil filters. He ranked Mobil 1 filters best in quality, but only second over-all because of the high price. I'm willing to pay that price, so I always use Mobil 1 filters, and replace them at every oil change. This keeps flow regular and filtered oil cleanliness/quality high. From what I remember of the article, FRAM filters were ranked relatively well in quality, while remaining economical.
Also, people seem to be implying that the OM specified oil is required to maintain the warranty, which is also incorrect. In fact, if you get right down to it, regular oil changes are required for warranty, but they can't prove whether or not you've even changed your oil at all if that's called to question. Moreover, different dealers have different service recommendations. I found this as personal experience when I moved from Tampa - where Bill Currie Ford recommended oil changes every 3K - to Orlando - where Greenway Ford recommends oil changes every 5k. Climate didn't change significantly, if at all, over those 100 miles of geographical difference, but the dealership policies did.
This brings me to my next point: Remember in regards to OM specifications and dealer recommendations that Ford and your dealership are in business to make money not only on the sale of your vehicle, but also on the maintenance and repair (after warranty) of your vehicle. They specify Motorcraft (Ford) oil. They sell Motorcraft (Ford) oil. This strikes "Conflict of Interest" in my mind. In your owner's manual, they specify some Ford Motor Part for power steering fluid, but the "Power Steering Fluid" sold at AutoZone, etc. (which costs significantly less) works as well. They specified Ford Motor Part because they want to make the money off the sale. They didn't say, "Power Steering Fluid" and recommend theirs based on a claim that theirs performs better, but instead specified only theirs.
The same applies to automatic transmission fluid, to which Ford specified Motorcraft (Ford) Mercon V (assuming a 4R70W transmission). But it's generally agreed by the vast majority of members here, with general concensus, that Red Line D4 ATF works better.
Anyway, I must expressly note that all these comments are in my opinion, which is researched, but is still my opinion. In fact, my main point is: It's your truck. Do with it what you want. If you want my advise, I just gave it. If you don't like it, don't follow it.
If you live in a hot climate (as I do in Florida) and drive your truck at a high RPMs for performance or towing, a heavier/thicker oil is going to provide better protection for your engine. I use 15W-50 March-October and 10W-30 November-February. If you live in a cooler/milder climate and use your truck for normal (sensible) non-heavy duty daily driving, a 5W-20 will probably protect your engine adequately.
As mentioned previously, a heavier oil does cause more friction, and thus a decrease in fuel economy. But this decrease is minor, especially when comparing 5W-20 to 5W-30. This should be the least of your worries when considering which oil to use. You should be primarily concerned with the longevity of your vehicle.
As for synthetic vs. non-synthetic, this is an old and much-debated argument. Most findings from respectable sources I've read have found that non-synthetic oils protect and lubricate engines equally as well as synthetic oils, provided they are changed regularly. The advantage of synthetic oils is that they are less likely to get burned off, and will likely last longer. This doesn't necessarily mean you should wait longer between oil changes, but it means you could in a pinch.
For my money, I always use Mobil 1 full synthetic oils. Like I said, I run my truck at high revs and don't like to worry about oil levels between oil changes, so I use the synthetic (less likely to burn off). Mobil 1 full synthetics have gotten consistently high reviews as to quality, and are still moderately priced (in comparison to Red Line oils, which are great, but over 50% more expensive).
Where you can make a big dent is with the oil filter. I forget where I read the article, but I read a great article reviewing a wide variety of main-stream oil filters. He ranked Mobil 1 filters best in quality, but only second over-all because of the high price. I'm willing to pay that price, so I always use Mobil 1 filters, and replace them at every oil change. This keeps flow regular and filtered oil cleanliness/quality high. From what I remember of the article, FRAM filters were ranked relatively well in quality, while remaining economical.
Also, people seem to be implying that the OM specified oil is required to maintain the warranty, which is also incorrect. In fact, if you get right down to it, regular oil changes are required for warranty, but they can't prove whether or not you've even changed your oil at all if that's called to question. Moreover, different dealers have different service recommendations. I found this as personal experience when I moved from Tampa - where Bill Currie Ford recommended oil changes every 3K - to Orlando - where Greenway Ford recommends oil changes every 5k. Climate didn't change significantly, if at all, over those 100 miles of geographical difference, but the dealership policies did.
This brings me to my next point: Remember in regards to OM specifications and dealer recommendations that Ford and your dealership are in business to make money not only on the sale of your vehicle, but also on the maintenance and repair (after warranty) of your vehicle. They specify Motorcraft (Ford) oil. They sell Motorcraft (Ford) oil. This strikes "Conflict of Interest" in my mind. In your owner's manual, they specify some Ford Motor Part for power steering fluid, but the "Power Steering Fluid" sold at AutoZone, etc. (which costs significantly less) works as well. They specified Ford Motor Part because they want to make the money off the sale. They didn't say, "Power Steering Fluid" and recommend theirs based on a claim that theirs performs better, but instead specified only theirs.
The same applies to automatic transmission fluid, to which Ford specified Motorcraft (Ford) Mercon V (assuming a 4R70W transmission). But it's generally agreed by the vast majority of members here, with general concensus, that Red Line D4 ATF works better.
Anyway, I must expressly note that all these comments are in my opinion, which is researched, but is still my opinion. In fact, my main point is: It's your truck. Do with it what you want. If you want my advise, I just gave it. If you don't like it, don't follow it.
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 1,512
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It's always good to hear others' opinions. I also agree that Red Line D-4 ATF is superior to Mercon V (Motorcraft). The shifts are firmer and smoother (less internal friction, but just enough for sure shifts).
As far as oil goes, as Maxtorque02 stated, you will get a thousand opinions and a thousand reasons for a "should do" viscocity, but as ucfperspicere pointed out, just use what you feel comfortable using.
As far as oil goes, as Maxtorque02 stated, you will get a thousand opinions and a thousand reasons for a "should do" viscocity, but as ucfperspicere pointed out, just use what you feel comfortable using.
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 749
Likes: 0
From: Lakeville, Minnesota, USA
Just some other food for thought -
The acceptable viscosity range to be called a 20w oil is 5.6-9.29, 30w 9.3-12.49. (These are viscosity readings taken at 100 Degrees Celcius (212 F), measured in cP).
Mobil 1 users were the ones that harped the hardest about sticking with 5w30 or 10w30 instead of using 5w20. Mobil 1 5w30 and 10w30 come in around 9.7, which is a very thin 30w oil - very close to a 20w. The old Tri-syn formula also had a nasty habit of shearing into 20w land. The new supersyn does not seem to have that problem.
No other commercially avaible 30w motor oil started with as low of a viscosity as Mobil 1. Yet an oil that was just on the other side of the fence (an arbitrary fence at that) was no good.
Labnerd -
Careful on using the motorcraft numbers on the motorcraft webpage. Notice the specs are still for the old SJ formulation - not the new SL formulation. It would be nice if they'd post the new SL specs... A decent bet is the real numbers are similar to the Conoco 5w20 SL formulation.
The acceptable viscosity range to be called a 20w oil is 5.6-9.29, 30w 9.3-12.49. (These are viscosity readings taken at 100 Degrees Celcius (212 F), measured in cP).
Mobil 1 users were the ones that harped the hardest about sticking with 5w30 or 10w30 instead of using 5w20. Mobil 1 5w30 and 10w30 come in around 9.7, which is a very thin 30w oil - very close to a 20w. The old Tri-syn formula also had a nasty habit of shearing into 20w land. The new supersyn does not seem to have that problem.
No other commercially avaible 30w motor oil started with as low of a viscosity as Mobil 1. Yet an oil that was just on the other side of the fence (an arbitrary fence at that) was no good.
Labnerd -
Careful on using the motorcraft numbers on the motorcraft webpage. Notice the specs are still for the old SJ formulation - not the new SL formulation. It would be nice if they'd post the new SL specs... A decent bet is the real numbers are similar to the Conoco 5w20 SL formulation.
Technical Article Contributor
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 2,804
Likes: 9
From: Wisconsin
So Motorcraft 5w-20 is at 8.8, just inside the 20w range, and Mobil 1 5w-30 is at 9.7, just inside the 30w range. Not much difference between the two.
Here are a few interesting links on 5w-20. 01 will like these.
http://www.epa.gov/otaq/cert/dearmfr/ccd0112.pdf
http://www.chevron.com/prodserv/baseoils/pdf/0201a.pdf
Here are a few interesting links on 5w-20. 01 will like these.
http://www.epa.gov/otaq/cert/dearmfr/ccd0112.pdf
http://www.chevron.com/prodserv/baseoils/pdf/0201a.pdf
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 749
Likes: 0
From: Lakeville, Minnesota, USA
Green - thanks for the links.
The first is one of the letters I had seen which offers the best reaon as to why Ford would promote the use of 5w20 in older engines - namely to insure that sales of 5w20 are sufficent to satisfy the EPA that consumers are using the oil. By doing so, Ford assures the EPA that its claimed fuel eficiency gains are what they say they are.
The first is one of the letters I had seen which offers the best reaon as to why Ford would promote the use of 5w20 in older engines - namely to insure that sales of 5w20 are sufficent to satisfy the EPA that consumers are using the oil. By doing so, Ford assures the EPA that its claimed fuel eficiency gains are what they say they are.
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 5
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From: Tulsa
Originally posted by Labnerd
"I The Pennzoil, Castrol GTX, and Chevron Supreme have 50 ppm's moly in spectrscopy."
These oils start with over 100 PPM of moly , I believe what you are seeing is what is left after plating to the internal parts like the camshaft through used oil analysis.
" For further information, not all engines respond well to synthetic Gp IV or higher basestocks. Some engines will have the wear metals 4-5 times higher than a dino basestock."
I cannot agree with this because newer formulations are using additives such a Tin Napthenate and a host of others to include one that would show a false positive to glycol in the oil to the untrained eye.
"In regards to engine life, only when the real world results are in will we really know for sure. "
I agree.
"mf150, redline is high in moly and will plate an engine quickly and because of this works great in a race engine where the engine is continually run at boundary lube. It doesn't, however, do well on extended oil changes. I wouldn't suggest running it more than 5,000 miles as it usually will shear down a grade."
Incorrect. After the PE Esters clean the residual tin,lead and other wear metals the Redline will pruduce outstanding long drain intervals,,if the correct viscosity is chosen of course. I do not believe that Redline is the end to all means though.
"I Any gassing of the oil will only result in the oil getting heavier. "
Incorrect. Fuel dillution WILL thin out the motor oil viscosity not thicken. Fuel dillution can come from injectors bleeding down on shutdown of the engine and short stop-n-go trips,especially in colder weather.
.
"I The Pennzoil, Castrol GTX, and Chevron Supreme have 50 ppm's moly in spectrscopy."
These oils start with over 100 PPM of moly , I believe what you are seeing is what is left after plating to the internal parts like the camshaft through used oil analysis.
" For further information, not all engines respond well to synthetic Gp IV or higher basestocks. Some engines will have the wear metals 4-5 times higher than a dino basestock."
I cannot agree with this because newer formulations are using additives such a Tin Napthenate and a host of others to include one that would show a false positive to glycol in the oil to the untrained eye.
"In regards to engine life, only when the real world results are in will we really know for sure. "
I agree.
"mf150, redline is high in moly and will plate an engine quickly and because of this works great in a race engine where the engine is continually run at boundary lube. It doesn't, however, do well on extended oil changes. I wouldn't suggest running it more than 5,000 miles as it usually will shear down a grade."
Incorrect. After the PE Esters clean the residual tin,lead and other wear metals the Redline will pruduce outstanding long drain intervals,,if the correct viscosity is chosen of course. I do not believe that Redline is the end to all means though.
"I Any gassing of the oil will only result in the oil getting heavier. "
Incorrect. Fuel dillution WILL thin out the motor oil viscosity not thicken. Fuel dillution can come from injectors bleeding down on shutdown of the engine and short stop-n-go trips,especially in colder weather.
.
I believe that for the Ford in a readily available 5/20 the Motorcraft to be about the best oil available. But as the miles on the vehicles aproach or surpass the 100k mark a step up to a 10 cst motor oil would be prudent and most definatley will not hurt a motor at infancy as long as a oil with excellent pumpabilty is chosen such as Mobil Supersyn 5/30 just for example.
FWIW I use Synergyn 0/20 Synthetic and change the oil at 9k miles with 50/50 hiway-city driving and have excellent multiple oil analysis's to back up my choice.
I like my Ford
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 1,512
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Any oil up to and including a 10W will work just fine. This is from personal experience and the fact that one of our Triton engines is almost at the 200,000 mile mark with NO problems on a 10W-30. If you race or are hard with your vehicle, I'd still use a 10W oil.
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 2,824
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From: North Huntingdon,Pa.
5W-20, IMO, is no good for racing or modified engines either. I'm not saying that 5W-20 is not a good oil, just saying that there is not enough proof that it is a good oil. As I stated earlier, I will let all you pro-5W20 users prove that 5w-20 protects as good as 5W-30 or 10W-30. I will believe when I see the engines with milage over 200,000 miles. I also agree that if you change your oil regularly, you won't have a problem. What it all comes down to is: use what ever makes you comfortable. I am not denouncing 5W-20, but I would just need to see some Real World Proof that your engine would last as long.
Last edited by openclasspro#11; Nov 30, 2009 at 08:00 PM.
