Okay, I have 67000 on my truck, I know that the manual says to not change them till 100000, but that scares me! I took the plugs out of my old ranger at like 90000 and it was bad! I put autolites in it, that was a bad choice, they sucked. However I didn't want to mess with changing them again cause you practically had to have circus hands to even get to the plugs on the 4 banger.

I was wondering if it is best to stay with motorcraft plugs, or like a platinum 4 or something. also how was it when you guys changed yours? was it quick and painless or should I reserve a couple hours. Thanks in advance for your input.

 

what kind of engine do you have? And what year? Bosch Platinum plugs are absoloute GARBAGE...I wouldnt use them in my frickin Lawnmower...HORRIBLE plugs...I use AC delco on My Pontiac, and Motorcraft Or Champion on my Ford...Both Are great plugs, and Give long life...I'd go with Champion, myself...

 

Autolight makes the Motorcraft double platinum plugs and is a popular choice. Whatever you do, get a platinum (or iridium) plug, preferably double. If you have a V8, the time it takes to change them is long and you'll not want to do it for a long time.

Does Champion make a platinum plug?

 

Ide go with the dbl plat. motorcrafs,I used the bosch+4 and they ran well until for 25,000mi when 2 of them burnt up.When I removed them #8 and #3 the center electrode was burnt uo into the porcelain creating the missfires.
I hope you dont have a V8 now if you thought your 4 banger was tough.If you do allow about 6 hrs and 6 beers of your choice.

GOOD LUCK

 

Changing the plugs takes about 1 hour if you know what you are doing. 1st thing to do is to remove the plastic cover on the TB. This will give you a full view of the engine. You need to locate the plugs. If you have a 97-99 4.6 with plug wires just follow each wire to find the plug. If you have a 5.4 or a 00-03 4.6 then you have COP, coil on plug, ignition. Neal the HP freak has pictures of the 5.4 with COP.



This is a nice side view of the coil and of the fuel rail. You can remove the fuel rail to gain better access to the coil. The coil is the black thing with the black tail sticking past the bottom of the manifold.

You might have to remove the fuel rail and lift it out of the way because the fuel regulator is in the way of the #7 plug. Note there are rubber O rings that seal the injectors. A light coat of engine oil helps when reinstalling. There is a 7mm bolt holding the coils in place. Removing the Power Steering bracket makes it easier to remove the #5 coil and plug. I also used a magnet to avoid droping anything into the valley between the cylinder banks.

Blow compressed air in the hole to remove any debris in the hole before removing the plug. I used a 3 and 6 inch extention and a spark plug socket.
Slow and easy for the first time and after that it will be a breeze the second time.

For those of you with plug wires make note of there the wires go or simply do one at a time. One last note. When reinstalling the fuel rail make sure the injector is properly seated in the head and then align the rail over the injectors. This iswhere the oil makes it easier. Not too muck though.

Regards

Jean Marc Chartier

 

Best plug available in my opinion.
Marc

 

Thanks guys, gives me a good idea of what to expect. I have a 98 w/ a 5.4, hopefully my signature thing works this time so I don't have to write all the details anymore. sounds like a good weekend job though!