Muddin?
Muddin?
Last week I had to go through a big field after it rained hard all day. It was after work and the only way to get to the street was through all this mud. SO, I gave a running start of 30mph and headed straight through it.
I MADE IT!!!....
...needless to say I spent 2.5 Hours under my truck cleaning with a pressure washer.
Here's a sample:
I MADE IT!!!....
...needless to say I spent 2.5 Hours under my truck cleaning with a pressure washer.
Here's a sample:
cleaning? what for? If you can, try to clean mud off as soon as possible, the wetter the better. Then its not so hard to get off. No matter how much I try the one place I cant get mud out of is between the fender flares and fender flares. I could spend all day spraying that area with a powerwasher and still never get it.
You find me a relay that holds up to that sucker and i'll have it on.
it's burned up 3 so far. I'm gonna custom make me a 60amp breaker. hopefully that'll work.
You also notice the nitrous is not on my truck anymore. it's up for sale too.
it's burned up 3 so far. I'm gonna custom make me a 60amp breaker. hopefully that'll work.
You also notice the nitrous is not on my truck anymore. it's up for sale too.
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Remember when I asked you what you were running for a controller and you told me the Hayden kit. Well I have found those and most of the others will do just what you are having troubles with.
There are a few reasons that those set-ups won't work very well.
They aren't a motor rated relay. They are more for like alarm systems or etc. The start current on the fan is in excess of 50 Amps. Those relays are a very flimsy design that you'd be lucky to take a surge past 20 let alone 30 amps. The run state is probably 10 Amps or so. That is a heavy duty cycle to expect of these relays.
2)These kits don't have any way to dissapate the load of the motor when the relay opens back up. The motor is an inductive load. When the relay contacts open up, the energy stored in that motor has no place to go. That energy will seek out a place to go and it has enough energy to form a negative voltage and jump back across that relay contact. This will kill service life by about 70% roughly, particularly on these flimsy relays in those kits. What is needed is a diode placed across the motor to conduct one way and not the other. That would supress the spark and eliminate that problem.
I'm working on a good heavy control circuit for mine and I'll keep you posted as I test it out.
It will be driven by a Bosch 75Amp I can pretty much say that. I don't think a 60 is sufficient. I haven't worked out the rest enough yet to commit to what parts it will be. I am wanting to do a 2 speed control circuit. One for the A/C (low speed) and the high speed for the actual cooling of the engine.
My fan unit is off a Volvo S80 Twin Turbo. It's quiet and makes a lot of air. The Mark VIII is a good unit also.
Umm Tally, umm how much you want for your nitrous kit?
Maybe I'll swap you out a heavy duty fan circuit for it?????
There are a few reasons that those set-ups won't work very well.
They aren't a motor rated relay. They are more for like alarm systems or etc. The start current on the fan is in excess of 50 Amps. Those relays are a very flimsy design that you'd be lucky to take a surge past 20 let alone 30 amps. The run state is probably 10 Amps or so. That is a heavy duty cycle to expect of these relays.
2)These kits don't have any way to dissapate the load of the motor when the relay opens back up. The motor is an inductive load. When the relay contacts open up, the energy stored in that motor has no place to go. That energy will seek out a place to go and it has enough energy to form a negative voltage and jump back across that relay contact. This will kill service life by about 70% roughly, particularly on these flimsy relays in those kits. What is needed is a diode placed across the motor to conduct one way and not the other. That would supress the spark and eliminate that problem.
I'm working on a good heavy control circuit for mine and I'll keep you posted as I test it out.
It will be driven by a Bosch 75Amp I can pretty much say that. I don't think a 60 is sufficient. I haven't worked out the rest enough yet to commit to what parts it will be. I am wanting to do a 2 speed control circuit. One for the A/C (low speed) and the high speed for the actual cooling of the engine.
My fan unit is off a Volvo S80 Twin Turbo. It's quiet and makes a lot of air. The Mark VIII is a good unit also.
Umm Tally, umm how much you want for your nitrous kit?
Maybe I'll swap you out a heavy duty fan circuit for it?????
I was also thinking of using the Bosch 75amp starter relay.
Let me know what you come up with.
I'm thinking of copying JDM's setup. they have a hi/lo switch.
Let me know what you come up with.
I'm thinking of copying JDM's setup. they have a hi/lo switch.
JDM Set-Up?
Tell me more.
By switch do you mean a manual toggle or an electronic switch that is integrated?
I want to design a controller that will not require any dash mounted switches. The A/C clutch will determine the low speed and the thermistor will determine the high speed.
There should be no need for an override or a speed control switch.
But it will make for a slightly more complex controller this way. An added component in the circuit. I will play around with some design thoughts.
Tell me about what the JDM is?
The Bosch is readily available, rated for motors, and is a very reliable component. Actually Tally you could just wire the Bosch into the circuit in place of the POS from the Hayden kit and it will probably live a good while. I just want to do a 2 speed set-up or I would have already done the basic set-up you have and substituted that relay. It does not eliminate the freewheeling motor problem though. That would cause it die sooner in life but still probably a long way away.
Call me **** but I want a control circuit that will never leave me in the heat so to speak and be overbuilt a bit.
I never realized the start current was so high on these single fan units. I know it pulled 50 Amps + when I fired my Volvo unit up. By the way I managed to get the spec for the Mark VIII unit. It has a 100 Amp start spike for something like 300 milliseconds then 80 for another 300 with a run current of something like 20 Amps!!!!!...Holy smokes. At that rate you will have to buffer it some before the relay takes that hit. That was partly why I avoided the Mark VIII unit. Plus I couldn't find anyone willing to part with a used one cheap enough to make it worth doing.
Used Nitrous Kits are really cheap I hear....
Tell me more.
By switch do you mean a manual toggle or an electronic switch that is integrated?
I want to design a controller that will not require any dash mounted switches. The A/C clutch will determine the low speed and the thermistor will determine the high speed.
There should be no need for an override or a speed control switch.
But it will make for a slightly more complex controller this way. An added component in the circuit. I will play around with some design thoughts.
Tell me about what the JDM is?
The Bosch is readily available, rated for motors, and is a very reliable component. Actually Tally you could just wire the Bosch into the circuit in place of the POS from the Hayden kit and it will probably live a good while. I just want to do a 2 speed set-up or I would have already done the basic set-up you have and substituted that relay. It does not eliminate the freewheeling motor problem though. That would cause it die sooner in life but still probably a long way away.
Call me **** but I want a control circuit that will never leave me in the heat so to speak and be overbuilt a bit.
I never realized the start current was so high on these single fan units. I know it pulled 50 Amps + when I fired my Volvo unit up. By the way I managed to get the spec for the Mark VIII unit. It has a 100 Amp start spike for something like 300 milliseconds then 80 for another 300 with a run current of something like 20 Amps!!!!!...Holy smokes. At that rate you will have to buffer it some before the relay takes that hit. That was partly why I avoided the Mark VIII unit. Plus I couldn't find anyone willing to part with a used one cheap enough to make it worth doing.
Used Nitrous Kits are really cheap I hear....
I'm wanting $350 for my nitrous kit. 75HP shot only, but can be adjusted with other pills. It is a wet kit and I include a fuel rail adapter for the 4.2's so you don't have to tap into the fuel line.
I already knew that the fan sucked 80amps at startup. didn't know the 100a tho.
I'm sure I will get it worked out next go around, I'm just cash limited right now with school starting.
Hell, I'm an electrician so I should be able to figure it out.
Here's the JDM setup (JDM copyrighted)
I already knew that the fan sucked 80amps at startup. didn't know the 100a tho.
I'm sure I will get it worked out next go around, I'm just cash limited right now with school starting.
Hell, I'm an electrician so I should be able to figure it out.
Here's the JDM setup (JDM copyrighted)
off-subject, or back on it, I can't tell
If you have a lot of caked on mud (and a yard) a good way to get it off is to hook up your sprinkler to your garden hose and set it under your truck. Let it run for a while and what doesn't fall off after it is softened will come off very easily. You can set it on top of your tire to get the mud out from the inside of the fenders as well.
MerryDestroyer
MerryDestroyer
got mud?
Don't forget to get the inside frame rails, mud really likes to collect on them. I was unlucky enough to buy my truck with about 40lbs of mud on the frame rails.It was raining out when I bought it, so I couldn't crawl under it without getting soaked.Oddly enough the motor actually looked as clean as a brand new one.Those detail guys, did great on the motor but forgot the undercarriage..............That was 4 months ago and I am still getting mud(and lots of little white rocks) off of it.This weekend I plan on putting the beast on jackstands and finshing up(hopefully).
Originally posted by Charles F.
Careful Talley, you'll insult your talent if you say you can't get the solution to that problem.
You're still an apprentice.
Careful Talley, you'll insult your talent if you say you can't get the solution to that problem.
You're still an apprentice.


