HERE......http://www.bgfueltest.com/

 

Wondering if keeping these sort of deposits reduced is as simple as changing the oil more frequently than every 5k+ miles. I've been brainwashed by the engine oil industry to change it every 3k and been doing that since I've been driving.

 

BG says no, but they did say that using synthetic would help clean the ring lands which is another problem this scenario causes.

 

It's actually quite interesting you mention "brainwashed"...

Every 300 miles is roughly equivelent to 10 hours on an engine. Most gasoline engines require an oil change at 100 or there-abouts. Depending on how much idling there is, can add up to even more.

Like for me, I'm odd. I will keep my truck idling while I go into a store or run chores. I find that it saves gas especially during the winter. During the summer, it's a little different, but depending on what I'm doing, I might be out for 3-4 hours, and the truck might spend an hour of that idling -- including stoplights and traffic.

But I just calculate up to 100 hours and change it. Like today, I had to change it -- not because I was close to 3000 miles, but rather around 2000 miles, but, because I idled it so much because of the colder months, I ran up my hours and not my miles.

It also depends on your driving habits too. If you are hard on your engine, like heavy acceleration, towing, etc, expect to change your oil sooner as well.

Likewise, I would never leave oil in any crankcase on a gas engine for more than 100 and tops being 150 hours in an emergency.

Diesel, well that's another story. They are quite different, hence, why diesel engines are directed for much longer oil changes. Like for example -- a 26 hp gas engine requires oil changes at 100 hours -- Yet the same hp engine in diesel form does not require an oil change until 200 hours EVEN with the same exact amount of oil. Granted the oil grade is different, but because diesel combusts different than gas (less water vapor and other factors), the oil will last much longer.

But to get back to the point, gas engines are the same as they have been for years, and keeping oil in there longer is just asking for issues -- especially sludge issues from water vapor from e10 or if you run e85 in a flex fuel vehicle.

That is why companies like BG has solutions for these problems and will make serious profit with all of these DI engines and 5000+ mile oil changes.

And to be honest, even if you go to your local Walmart or even your local parts center and pick up cheap 5w20 or whatever grade your engine takes, oil is oil. As long as you keep changing it on a regular basis, you won't have many issues. I've been running cheap Walmart 5w20 dino oil in a Jeep Compass with Fram ToughGuard filters since it has it's first oil change, over 90,000 miles ago, and since I change it religously every 2,500 miles there is NO sludge or deposits in the valve covers. It is so clean, it looks like it is new and that is with the cheapest oil you can get and the engine operates no different than the day we drove it off the lot brand new.

 

U r exactly correct I read Labnerd and have followed him for quite awhile he knows his oil I have said for sometime I would not touch an eco until it had been in real world service for at least 5 yrs then we will see how bullet proof it really is

 

Settle down man, I'm not slamming anybody just the skeptic in me is not thoroughly convinced yet. Let me explain, the test car they used was a very early production Taurus SHO. The EB in the F-150 is a much different engine than the SHO. The block, heads, turbos, cams and a lot of the internal parts are different between the two. It very well could be that some of the changes between the two were aimed at further resolving the carbon issue.

Remember the motor Ford tore down at the NAIAS? Several different observers there saw the motor and only noticed a very light carbon build up on the surface after 163,000. About half way down is the description. Link

Also, the carbon problem in DI motors seems to be limited more to the first generation of engines than the newer ones. This article Edmunds DI details the problems VW/Audi and Lexus had on the early cars. The DI motors from Porsche do not seem to have the carbon issue. The later VW/Audi stuff seems to run much cleaner too.

I did a Bing search for "ecoboost carbon deposit". In the first 10 pages the only links that really talked about a problem was the two companies selling a product that provided a solution. I have just under 30k on my truck right now and it runs the same as when I drove it off the lot. The mileage is the same too. If there is a problem I'll be right there dealing with it with everyone else. But for now I have not seen much evidence of the EB in the F-150 having a serious problem.

 

Maybe, maybe.......I am not sure of the cure the manufacturers may have come up with, after all, there are oil deposits entering the intake runners and nothing to wash them down. I am skeptical of the "fix" they may have come up with. In any event, introducing oil into the combustion process isn't good. Fuel has its own lubricity additives, any more and octane suffers.

I can just see Labnerd sitting back and watching this thread, only to come in later with a true synopsis to blow all of us away.............

 

U r so correct anyone who thinks ford is going to get right on a design issue only need go back to the 04 5.4 3v with the spark plugs and cam phasers took ford nearly 4 yrs to correct a desing problem they knew about and ford offered no compensation, I was one of the stupid ones and I paid for it

 

OK, picked a pair of oil/air separators and modified them. Hung them on the firewall and routed the crankcase tubes through them. Used a very coarse steel wool as a condensation filter. I checked around for canisters and found a company that makes them but they are hard to communicate with, no phone number and they only reply through e-mail. Their canisters do have filtering discs in them and seem like the way to go. They are also hand made, so they are always behind schedule. The canisters I have do have glass bowls so I can monitor what is going on. If this looks like the setup that works, I will order the new canisters just because they look more professional than what I have now.

 

Excellent, sir!

Thanks for the update - I was just going to ask for one


MGD

 

OK, after 1 week I had a teaspoon of oil in the dump can. This is after approx. 175 miles. The left (drivers) can is empty and the oil is in the right can. I removed the drains in the cans when I built them and installed a 1/2 inch bolt to replace them. the bolt threads were leaking, so I sealed both of them. Apparently, these ventilator tubes do move a fair amount of oil into the intake plenum. the hoses from the cans to the intake are bone dry, so, they are working. I'll give it another week and then I will order a pair of custom made cans with built in strainers. I have talked to a fabricator and can get a pair for a very reasonable price. Anyone interested in this setup can PM me and I will give you my e-mail addy.

 

So with this setup, do you think you'll need to add oil before your next oil change?

 

Not sure. I'm thinking at 1 teaspoon of oil every 2 weeks, would be 12 teaspoons every 6 months or 24 teaspoons every year, so, most likely not. I have been getting on it a lot also.

 

what's the latest update here aussiekeeper?

 

As above ^^^. I have ordered a pair of custom cans for the permanent install. All is working properly.