What's your source for this info?

 

There also is theory that changing oil to much is hard on an engine. Because oil goes through its normal life cycle and when you put it in an engine the engine has to work to break the oil down to how it wants to use it. So if you are constantly using new your constantly breaking it down and working the engine. Im not a buyer or seller of this but its out there. personally anything under 5k you are waisting money, time and the environment.

 

Got some specific proof of this? According to the Amsoil spec sheet, 5W-30 Signature meets specs.

With what Labnerd has posted, I probably wouldn't use it anyway - it would not be cost-effective because I wouldn't run it past 5k.

 

i dont have anything to back me up and say that you are wrong but i think that oil is at its best when it is changed and slowly degrades. i think if it had to be broken down the chemists would figure out a way to do that. eng manufacturers and oil companies have worked hard to extend the life of oil. they say in extreme conditions to change it more often. there are even those that say frequent changes with cheap oil is better than going a long time.

i used to change mine every 3K when the manufacturer reccomended every 5K. when they upped it to 7K i started every 5K. now that they are at 10k i think i will still continue to do it every 5k.

my original question was, has anyone with some miles on their trucks changed from the factory blend to pure synthetic like mobil 1 and noticed an improvement.

 

I doubt that you would notice an improvement in fuel economy with any oil in any engine these days. The oils today are not at all like they were years ago and even cheap dino oil is as good or better than synthetics were then. The only exception might be a PAO synthetic such as Amsoil Signature, but even that would probably not be consistently noticeable. The only reason to run a high end synthetic these days is to extend your drain intervals, which is not really a good idea with a EB.

 

Sure, here are the Scamsoil products that ARE API certified. 2 diesel and 2 gasoline oil products:










And here are a couple examples of how Scamsoil tries to deceive their customers. These products ARE NOT API certified, but they put it on the
bottle label to make customers think it is:

 

Do you have DOCUMENTED PROOF that using Signature will void an Ecoboost warranty?

It's my understanding that the only reason it's not certified is because they use ZDDP, which is actually a GOOD thing, it just pisses off the EPA.

I know you are just a hater and it's pointless to argue with you.

 

All US auto manufacturers state that an API certified oil be used to keep the warranty valid. There are many more articles like these:

http://www.cars.com/go/advice/Story....ar=&aff=sacbee


http://www.edmunds.com/car-care/do-i...urers-oil.html

 

According to one of the links you cited GM uses Dexos and not API......European mfgrs have their own oil formulas and not API.....seems like some are straying away from API

 

I do know the Ford owners manual says to look of the API seal, I saw this last night. It also shows what it looks like and where it normally is on the bottle. Will they void your warranty, I don't know but they do push it in the manual.

With so many good oils on the market that have the rating why take the chance?

 

Just a couple of points to keep this thread going in the right direction.
1 Amsoil no longer has all of the ZDDP in the formulation. ZDDP is a multi function additive that kept the Amsoil working for the long distance and keeping the acids at bay. They're now using calcium sulfanates to do the same thing. It's also no longer a PAO only base oil. The base oil more resembles Pennzoil Ultra for a comparison. If you are using it, I strongly suggest that you have it tested at 15,000 miles and pay real close attention to the Oxidation and Nitration levels. Again, there's more to an oil performing function than the TBN.

2 Amsoil Signature series is not API certified and should you have an oil related failure while in warranty, expect Ford to demand an oil report before considering your claim. The OE line is certified but hardly worth any premium.

3 Foreign car makers only spec API oils in the USA. Otherwise they spec ACEA standards for the oils they require. ACEA has a more generous line of additives that are limited in the States. Reason- few emissions standards worldwide like we have in the States. In particular, phosphorus, which when gassed out of formulation will kill the cats rendering them useless. Gassing can occur in an engine that lives in a high humidity environment or an engine that sees short trips and condensate is an issue. It's the gassing of the water molecules that brings the phosphorus out with it. Limits in the States are at 600ppms.

4 Dexos is GM's attempt to to literally blackmail oil producers out of money. There is currently a Federal Investigation as to why GM is demanding tens of thousands of dollars for Dexos certification when other companies like Ford charges less than 100 bucks. Considering the Gov't is the prime shareholder, I doubt the investigation will ever get any where but if you read the owners manual, if Dexos is not available, any API 5w-30 is acceptable. If you read the fine print in GMs advertising, they compare a GF-4 to their specs when the USA is now on GF-5. The standards are ridiculously close, so close that GM really has no reasons to recommend their Dexos standards. Here's a copy of the standards and the gradient lines are 1%. There is a 10% allowance in formulations so an oil that meets their certification may not be compliant but is acceptable.
http://www.gf-5.com/gsuniverse/sitet...20DIAGRAM.html

 

I laugh at comments on amsoil.I own my own Hvac co.in all my vans,since new,they have gotten once a year,or 35 oil changes since new,have always used amsoil filters too.used 0w30 until 0w20 was released.I have never had an engine pjroblem.my 04 that I personally drive just cracked 400 k yesterday.the money I do not waste in oil changes and down time goes to killer employee aprreciation parties and bonuses....

 

Yea....don't wear your fingers out here, GLC.......it's like trying to reason with a rock

 

Im not saying I beleive in my theory just what I have read and seen many beleive in. 3k is way to early on current oils and engines. between 5-7k is perfect. If you want to go less thats on you, but personally I think the manufacture is going to keep it right where it needs to be in order to avoid warranty claims.

I went with Motor Craft Full syn it was only 40 cents more a qt at Wallys. I didnt notice the difference. To be honest with you I have a high performance car and boat and tinkered with oils, and you know what I didnt notice a dang thing as far MPGs, performance gain or not. To me its not worth the headache to worry about weights and brands and such. Use the weight that the manufacture recommends with a good brand.

 

^^^^x2