better MPG
Originally Posted by 04heritage
I've heard of people getting 22 mpg, but that would be some slow driving. Never going over 55, and very slow take offs. Def. no city driving.
i have a 97 f150 4x4 ..v6 and im getting around 12-14 , but my speed o is off by 10 mph..cause it has p265 tires on it and it should have 235 tires on it...so what are all you v6 4x4 guys getting in mileage..mine is a 5speed
my 2002 v6 4x4 regular cab suck more gaz than my v8 4x4 extra cab short box with the 4.6... but my father have a v8 5.4 and this one never do more than 16mpg in slow driving... the 4.6 go up to 21mpg and the 4.2 19mpg. only on highway driving, we never talk about pick-up mpg in city driving...not a lot to say...
Last edited by rammstein500; Apr 9, 2007 at 10:37 PM.
Im gettin 23 mpg and all i did was put some bosh performance plugs in and keep my oil changed, and for those of you who think you have to keep it slow to get decent milege a freind of mine has a 98 xl v6 and a k&n cold air intake and flying around everywhere at 75 -80 mph hes still gettin 22 its all in the body style really a single cab gets way better than extended and reg bed gets better than step side
Gear ratios and gas -> 3.08 is not a big help
Originally Posted by glc
Maybe you can get better than 20 with 3.08 gears, but I doubt you can with 3.55's unless you cruise at like 55. Last trip I took, cruising at 72 on level ground (I-55 in Illinois) I got 19.8. Running it up to 80 killed it down under 17 - granted, that was not level ground (I-44 in eastern Missouri).
On freeways I get 15+ mpg which is about 1.5 to 2 mpg less. After driving the 3.73 for 700 miles and the 3.08 for 90K I have to say I believe the 3.08 is far too low. At one point (2002) its availability was dropped from the automatic V6 offerings. My drive ability is vastly improved with the 3.73.
If I was not towing and was looking for economy I would want a 3.31 as it probably is the best compromise between performance and economy.
But unless you do your own wrenching changing your gear ratio just for a couple of mpg doesn't seem too me very cost effective. If you really want a shorter ratio put some taller tires on the rear axle. Get all your driveline specs together and use this page to calculate what you will achieve ratio wise by changing tire size or ring and pinion.
http://www.angelfire.com/fl/procrastination/rear.html
Last edited by 97dink; Apr 27, 2007 at 12:23 PM.
Originally Posted by glc
I say BS. 16 to 20 is more like it.
I'm now very confused. I've been on the road on a cross country vacation/house buying trip since April 5th. I've driven from Chicago to San Diego and part way back (I'm in Joplin right now) and have seen mileage ranging from 13 to 23. The tank that got 13 was from Odessa to El Paso, cruise set at 85, AC on, and fighting a 40 mph headwind uphill most of the way. The tank that got 23 was in the MOUNTAINS - from Durango to Colorado Springs, going over several 10000+ foot passes (US 550, 50, 285, and 24) and beating the **** out of it. I got 20+ on every tank in the mountains on 2 lane roads. Every Interstate tank was under 20 except for one - I got exactly 20 from Colorado Springs to Salina.
As an aside - if anyone is wondering whether the V6 has enough power, I was very happy with the performance in the mountains. I was running with no load - just personal luggage - and I was keeping up with just about everything out there. I was really only limited by maintaining sanity around curves. The only truck that was able to leave me behind (that was trying) was a Dodge 2500 crew cab with a Cummins, towing a 4 wheel car trailer with a Ford Escape strapped down on it. We were pulling a long uphill grade at about the 9000 foot level, I was running about 70 in 4th (foot firmly in the firewall) and this guy passed me. That said, I don't think my V6 would have towed very well up there though, if I had to tow in the mountains I think I'd want a big V8/V10 or a turbodiesel.
As an aside - if anyone is wondering whether the V6 has enough power, I was very happy with the performance in the mountains. I was running with no load - just personal luggage - and I was keeping up with just about everything out there. I was really only limited by maintaining sanity around curves. The only truck that was able to leave me behind (that was trying) was a Dodge 2500 crew cab with a Cummins, towing a 4 wheel car trailer with a Ford Escape strapped down on it. We were pulling a long uphill grade at about the 9000 foot level, I was running about 70 in 4th (foot firmly in the firewall) and this guy passed me. That said, I don't think my V6 would have towed very well up there though, if I had to tow in the mountains I think I'd want a big V8/V10 or a turbodiesel.
Well not that I have a 4.2l in my F150 (reg cab 4X4 4.6l auto 3.55's) but I'm getting an average of 15mpg totally stock. I don't do much stop and go but mix it up with highway and back roads. I'm in the quest for better MPG's and I'm keeping a log since I've had the truck witch is only a few months as of now.
From my past experience pulleys, synthetic oils, e-fans, dyno tune, and manual transmission are all great for fuel mileage not to mention tons of low end torque with low gears (2.73's, 3.08's) if you can pull them effectively. I was getting close to 30MPG highway without a dyno tune in my 87 5.0 GT with 1/4 times in the high 13's low 14's. I'm currently running a test with the addition of a Ford Racing exhaust, Mobil extended life, and ASP pulleys. I had the pieces on for the last 1/4 tank of gas on my last MPG run and already saw a .5 MPG improvement over any other. I'm not saying this is 100% confirmed but is a good sign to me. I know some people say that it will take way to long to recover the cost of mods but if you can make more power and more MPG's then it's worth it to me. If gas prices keep going up then the cost will be covered much quicker. My goal is to try to get as close to 20MPG with mixed driving as I can.
Autos rob more power to the ground then manuals.
E-fans, pulleys, synthetic oils, and exhaust usually free up power without the addition of more fuel. (synthetics are more expensive but can be run longer with less waste due to less oil changes so although more costly at the time price 2-3 regular oil changes to 1 synthetic)
Dyno tunes keep your A/F ratio in a desired limit at all times (if done properly which equals more power and better MPG's).
Low end torque seems to be disappearing these days with the newer technology and gearing is the only way to compesate it seems but kills highway economy.
From my past experience pulleys, synthetic oils, e-fans, dyno tune, and manual transmission are all great for fuel mileage not to mention tons of low end torque with low gears (2.73's, 3.08's) if you can pull them effectively. I was getting close to 30MPG highway without a dyno tune in my 87 5.0 GT with 1/4 times in the high 13's low 14's. I'm currently running a test with the addition of a Ford Racing exhaust, Mobil extended life, and ASP pulleys. I had the pieces on for the last 1/4 tank of gas on my last MPG run and already saw a .5 MPG improvement over any other. I'm not saying this is 100% confirmed but is a good sign to me. I know some people say that it will take way to long to recover the cost of mods but if you can make more power and more MPG's then it's worth it to me. If gas prices keep going up then the cost will be covered much quicker. My goal is to try to get as close to 20MPG with mixed driving as I can.
Autos rob more power to the ground then manuals.
E-fans, pulleys, synthetic oils, and exhaust usually free up power without the addition of more fuel. (synthetics are more expensive but can be run longer with less waste due to less oil changes so although more costly at the time price 2-3 regular oil changes to 1 synthetic)
Dyno tunes keep your A/F ratio in a desired limit at all times (if done properly which equals more power and better MPG's).
Low end torque seems to be disappearing these days with the newer technology and gearing is the only way to compesate it seems but kills highway economy.
Originally Posted by BlueOvalFitter
Something to do with the air being denser and the molecular structure to where you are getting more gas then if it were hot.
Any scientist out there care to chime in?
Any scientist out there care to chime in?

When the temparature is the lowest, the molecules are more dense (smaller-- think like when you shiver-- you shrink to be smaller to retain energy). But, density does not affect volume, so when you fill up at 4:00 AM, and drive at noon, the amount of fuel that previously occupied say 1 cubic foot may now occupy 1.1 cubic feet. This is because the fuel molecules expand when they are heated to not contain too much energy. You therefore get more bang for your buck. Also, when it's cooler out, less of the fuel will be in a gaseous state, so less will be lost when you open the gas cap. If it was feasible, a completely pressureized system would be optimal...then you could loose NO fuel due to evaporation... But that's a ways away...
what exactly is average for the v6?
I have a regular cab, and im sure that contributes to more mpg, being that its less "truck" that i would be pulling around.
I was ballparking it at about 20-22 in the city. well thats the figures someone gave me, but that sounds a little steep for this truck.
I have a regular cab, and im sure that contributes to more mpg, being that its less "truck" that i would be pulling around.
I was ballparking it at about 20-22 in the city. well thats the figures someone gave me, but that sounds a little steep for this truck.
I get about 16 in the city and 18 suburban with mine. You need to do the actual math. Highway seems to be settling out in the 19 to 22 range depending how fast I drive, it will not hit 20 unless I keep it under 70 to 75 and use pure gas, E10 has yet to hit 20.





