short throw...anything new?

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Old Oct 27, 2004 | 07:43 PM
  #46  
Jackal's Avatar
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You guys suck. Anita said that your 5026 was "...already slated for another project." DOAH!!! How's she feel? 2 1/4 bills better? I will have one as soon as I can get someone to take my money.
 
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Old Oct 27, 2004 | 07:45 PM
  #47  
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BTW, does the Hurst boot not fit at all or end up in a bind? Don't tell me they have to re-work them again.
 
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Old Oct 28, 2004 | 07:49 AM
  #48  
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With all the money I've got into my truck (alot to me anyhow) and the long wait for this shifter 2 1/4 bills is worth it. My biggest problem with the stock shifter was the 1-2 upshift. I would always let the clutch out before I had it all the way in 2nd. When I took it for a ride with the new shifter I was at a light and this S-10 was revving next to me. So when the light goes green the S-10 takes off and I take off easy so I don't lose traction. This time the 1-2 uipshift was so much smoother I was able to keep the rpm's up so when I got to 2nd I ended up losing traction. I went flying by this S-10 doing the one wheel spin. It shifts much better. More like a performance vehicle.

The boot isn't at all important to the installation. Some might want to go through the trouble of installing it. I will fit if you really want it to. You have to drill holes to install it, which I don't like too much. I also don't have a drill compact enough to drill the holes under the dash forward of the shifter. It's easier to not install the Hurst boot but it can be done.
 
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Old Oct 28, 2004 | 09:22 AM
  #49  
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Awesome, glad you like it man, I'll post my experiences when I get mine. Thanks for keeping us up to date with this whole process.
 
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Old Aug 8, 2006 | 02:54 PM
  #50  
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From: Findlay OHIO
2001 F-150 XLT Super-Cab Fleetside 4X4 Sport 4.6L 5-speed Black.
I ordered the 5026 hurst shifter and that peice was 1/4" too long. So, I returned that and went with the 5025 that is supposed to fit the 88-96 trucks. I bet this is throwing a lot of you guys off. It's not installed yet, but I will post a bunch of pics of everything. I hope the shifter fits this time. Give me until the middle of next week. Probably around August 16th or 17th I'll have pics of my exhaust, shifter, and dyno graphs, before/ after.
 
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Old Aug 8, 2006 | 03:05 PM
  #51  
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Weird...I have the exact truck (09/2000 build) only Flareside and and it has the prototype 5026. That piece looked 1/4" longer than stock, but it fit with no problems. I think I found the 1/4" difference was somehow offset by another part of the kit or something...requiring it to be a little longer.
 
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Old Aug 8, 2006 | 06:36 PM
  #52  
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jackal, are you sure about the longer length? hmm... In the instructions, hurst says that if that peice after the ball is longer then stock then you need the 5025... I can't say anything for sure. Once it's installed I'll let you know.
 
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Old Aug 8, 2006 | 06:48 PM
  #53  
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I believe so...thought I has posted something about it here, but can't find it in searching. Maybe I'm full of it. Did you try it at all or are you just going by appearance?
 
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Old Aug 9, 2006 | 04:54 PM
  #54  
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jemetal, who did you get your shifter from? Are they helping you figure out what to do?
 
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Old Aug 10, 2006 | 10:58 AM
  #55  
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From: Sinton, TX
found this on ebay

99-03 models
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Hurst...spagenameZWD1V

88-96 models
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Hurst...spagenameZWD1V

I kinda want one now.....
Mine is a 2000 with plastic/rubber floor. How hard would it be for me to do this? How long? Thanks
 
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Old Aug 10, 2006 | 12:09 PM
  #56  
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It's probably the best $200 you can spend if you have the 5-speed, unless you can also find a used 1715 MicroTuner for around the same price. It only takes about 2 hours tops from the time you open the pass side door to the time you take it for a test run. EASY.
 
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Old Aug 18, 2006 | 12:10 PM
  #57  
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From: Findlay OHIO
I got all the **** installed... check out my galleries. Let me know what you think. I have dyno charts before and after all the mods. I should have the chart up in a few. But I can tell you that I gained 40hp and 30lbs with all bolt ons. Full Exhaust-throttle body-Mass Air-short throw-Diablo Predator tuner. The tuning is what really gave me the gains!
https://www.f150online.com/galleries....cfm?gnum=8178
 
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Old Aug 18, 2006 | 01:30 PM
  #58  
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Nice...how much of a pain were those headers? I fitted the boot into the factory base to retain the semi-factory look.
 
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Old Aug 18, 2006 | 02:50 PM
  #59  
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My mechanic told me the headers were basically a bitch to install, but he said that it could have been a lot worse. The install sent him to invest $200 worth of new impact wrench gear... He said he spent what seemed like all day turning the bolts by hand, one by one. Jackal, I like how you kept the factory boot, I would have liked to have mine like that but for some reason the boot doesn't lay the same way as before. I think the rubber got sretched somehow, it sorta lays at an angle like its permanently way down in 2nd. Its all good, the new boot looks great, and the shifting is really really tight. The stick vibrations are gone, great install job.
https://www.f150online.com/galleries....cfm?gnum=8178
 

Last edited by jemetal; Aug 18, 2006 at 02:56 PM.
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Old Aug 18, 2006 | 03:17 PM
  #60  
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If you happen to have problems with the stick loosening up both with and without the rubber isolators, check this out. It has been rock solid for a year and a half now. Stainless lock washers and jam nuts. Did away with the junk rubber isolators and that *****ty plate.

https://www.f150online.com/galleries...33048&anum=213
 
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