Question for GAH or ? Tranny temp guage install

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Old May 19, 2001 | 09:06 PM
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Question Question for GAH or ? Tranny temp guage install

Hi Need some input. Havent installed one before but think i can. If i pay attention! HA Now its my turn to do it. So....

99SC 4.6l AT 4X4 4R70W. Has factory AT cooler, approx. 5"high X 10"long X 2" deep. Stacked plate design total of 9 plates counting top & bottom. Sure looks small? Yes, i saw NEAL HP posts. Got me to thinkin.

GAH-read old post 4-21-01 You installed mechanical guage-manifold-sender. (BTW-nice home page)

Read installs on both type guages. Hey guys, nice locations & installs in dash, consoles etc.

Whats the difference between the mechanical & elect. guage?

Is a manifold needed regardless of type of guage?

Elect.guage requires 12V to operate? Mech. dosent? As you can tell this is new to me.

One post said screwed sender into tranny. Another install in pan. GAH installed in line from tranny to radiator.

Interesting different installs, but leaves me a bit confused?

Need to get guage in, appreciate replies.
Live in Sparks, close to Summit Racing. Have their catalog, so probably will go there. Hope it comes with instructions?

Have a good one. OT
 
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Old May 21, 2001 | 04:48 PM
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Hi Old Timer,
I'll try to help you out as best I can.

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">What’s the difference between the mechanical & elect. guage?</font>
A mechanical temperature gauge uses a copper tube full of argon gas with a "bulb" on the sender end that is inserted into the fluid that you want to monitor. As the fluid heats up, the argon expands and the gauge needle moves. An electrical gauge uses the change in resistance between the sender and ground to move the needle via a simple circuit. The mechanical gauge is more accurate, more durable, requires only two wires for illumination (if desired) but is less "adaptable" in terms of placement due to the copper tube - i.e. you can't shorten or lengthen the tube easily. The mechanical gauge will continue to give fluid temp with the engine off and the key out of the ignition.

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Is a manifold needed regardless of type of guage?</font>
A manifold is needed if you want to measure the fluid at the lines going to, or coming from the trans.

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Elect.guage requires 12V to operate? Mech. doesn’t? As you can tell this is new to me.</font>
A mechanical gauge only needs a 12v and ground if you want to illuminate the face. Electrical gauges typically need 4 or five wires.

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">One post said screwed sender into tranny. Another install in pan. GAH installed in line from tranny to radiator.

Interesting different installs, but leaves me a bit confused?
</font>
I copied Neal’s install because I wanted to "see" the maximum trans temps, not the bulk temps that you get in the pan. I installed the sender into the hard line going to the radiator. Last week I hit 220F climbing 1500' in 1.8 miles. I'm going to install a Perma Cool cooler with fan.

Hope this helps.


------------------
'00 5.4L AUTO 4X4 Lariat (Black/Silver)
'95 Thunderbird SC
'02 F-350 PSD CC DRW 6SPD 4X4 Lariat (order this year)
www.hawthorn-engineering.com
 
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Old May 21, 2001 | 09:20 PM
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Hi GAH

Thanks for info. Seems logical the way you installed your tranny guage. You said you put manifold about 12" away from tranny, if i remember right, guess i have to figure out how much tube i need.

Do you know if it comes in various lengths pre-cut, Im not exactly sure where ill mount, but going to cutout in dash maybe more difficult than perhaps a lower area? I can see where you wouldnt want to kink the tube,& bending for the various angles maybe difficult.

I see your point on the mech.guage. Think i might go this way. Assume Summit will have the manifold, they only list guage & sender.

I assume there are compression fittings or? that adapt hard line to manifold. Saw pic you posted, so at least i know what to look for. Ill have to figure out size of hard lines.

Yeah, might be changing my factory at cooler, but first need guage, then i can see temps and go from there. Will be towing my TT next month, so gotta get with it.

If you make the upgrade to Permacool, hope youll post results. Did catch my attention.

Thanks again. Good luck. OT

 
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Old May 22, 2001 | 03:49 PM
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gah
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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">You said you put manifold about 12" away from tranny, if i remember right, guess i have to figure out how much tube i need.</font>
You don't need any tube. You simply cut the hard trans line using an $8.00 tube cutter from any hardware store. DON'T do what I did and cut out a length of tube equal to the length of the manifold. Just make one cut and insert the manifold.

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Im not exactly sure where ill mount, but going to cutout in dash maybe more difficult than perhaps a lower area? I can see where you wouldnt want to kink the tube,& bending for the various angles maybe difficult.</font>
The plastic coated copper tube is VERY easy to work with - it's quite soft and easy to bend around corners. You'll find that the 6' length of tube is more than enough. I coiled up the excess tubing near the sender.

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Assume Summit will have the manifold, they only list guage & sender.</font>
I think that mechanical gauges are the way to go and YES, Summit does have the manifold. Type in ATM-2286 but realize that it will come with 3/8" compression fittings (we have 5/16" hard lines). You can save yourself some money by simply buying a 1/2" brass pipe tee. Buy a couple of 5/16" to 1/2" pipe compression fittings and you're done. It won't look as nice as the manifold from Autometer ($35.95) but it works great and will cost less. I used a brass tee set up for my engine coolant temp gauge and the end of the sender bulb sits right in the flow which is ideal for accuracy.

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">I assume there are compression fittings or? that adapt hard line to manifold. Saw pic you posted, so at least i know what to look for. Ill have to figure out size of hard lines.</font>
The lines are 5/16" and you'll need two 5/16" compression fitting-to-pipe adapters. They come with the manifold from Autometer but are the wrong size. I ended up going to NAPA to get the correct fittings.

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">If you make the upgrade to Permacool, hope youll post results.</font>
I'm ordering the cooler/fan from Summit today. Hopefully I'll have it installed by Memorial Day ...

Hope this helps.

------------------
'00 5.4L AUTO 4X4 Lariat (Black/Silver)
'95 Thunderbird SC
'02 F-350 PSD CC DRW 6SPD 4X4 Lariat (order this year)
www.hawthorn-engineering.com
 
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