ELECTRONIC SHIFT ON FLY OR STICK
#16
DENNIS,
THANKS FOR THE EXPLINATION ON THE FRONT DRIVE SYSTEM. WETHER IT'S BETTER OR NOT I'M NOT QUITE SURE. I'LL BET THE GAS MILEAGE WOULD BE BETTER IF WE COULD "UNLOCK" THAT FRONT DRIVESHAFT.
AS FAR AS THE LIMITED SLIP, I KNOW HOW THAT WORKS. I WAS JUST COMMENTING ON HOW "CHEAP" FORD IS TO NOT ICLUDE THAT IN THE 4X4 PACKAGE PRICE.
THANKS FOR THE EXPLINATION ON THE FRONT DRIVE SYSTEM. WETHER IT'S BETTER OR NOT I'M NOT QUITE SURE. I'LL BET THE GAS MILEAGE WOULD BE BETTER IF WE COULD "UNLOCK" THAT FRONT DRIVESHAFT.
AS FAR AS THE LIMITED SLIP, I KNOW HOW THAT WORKS. I WAS JUST COMMENTING ON HOW "CHEAP" FORD IS TO NOT ICLUDE THAT IN THE 4X4 PACKAGE PRICE.
#17
Personally, I would go with the manual shifter if you are going to rely on 4 wheel drive to get you in and out of remote areas. I've had them all, and the electric motors that engage the transfer case tend to freeze in really cold weather....crawling under the truck in muck and snow with a ball peen hammer to persuade an engagement is no fun. I dont know about the newer locking hubs, but I can tell you that all the pre '97 Ford auto hubs are worthless...I've gone thru 2 sets on the '96...they break, dont hold engagement well, and slip out in reverse or if you slide backwards a little (ask me about duck season and the icy boat ramp sometime). Warn Premium manuals are the way to go. Unlike autos, they will stay locked until you unlock them. Period. You can drive them locked in and use your transfer case to move back and forth into 4wd without exiting the vehicle. If you want ruggedness and piece of mind, both the manual lever and the manual hubs are the way to go.
#19
Congrats on the truck order. When it comes in, pay particular attention to the section of the manual dealing with shifting the transfer case, especially when going into and out of low range. If you don't follow the procedure, you'll either grind the gears or your truck will roll down a hill out of control.
#20
#21
As far as ford not including the limited slip differential in the offroad package, I personally don't have a problem with it. because if you want real traction, go with a locking rear differential. And its much easier and cheaper to put a locker in an open diff than in a LS. Just my $.02
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BigBunnell
98 F150 4X4 XLT flareside V6 5sp K&N Flowmaster and some other goodies
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BigBunnell
98 F150 4X4 XLT flareside V6 5sp K&N Flowmaster and some other goodies
#22
#23
I have used my 4*4 extensively in 6k.
I have had trouble w/ 4lo engagement. If it haden't come from the dealer like that it would have been a stick not the ****.
I've seen vacuum operated hubs and transfer cases refuse to engage in real cold weather. My friends jeep had to "warm up" before it'd engage. Also how bout blowing a fuse in B.F.E. I prefer basics when dependability is a top priority.
Factory LS is a joke IMHO. Again it came that way. If I keep this truck I'll put a No-slip in it when they are finally released.
If they finally get made for the front end i'll stick one there also.
Walking is not an option.
I have had trouble w/ 4lo engagement. If it haden't come from the dealer like that it would have been a stick not the ****.
I've seen vacuum operated hubs and transfer cases refuse to engage in real cold weather. My friends jeep had to "warm up" before it'd engage. Also how bout blowing a fuse in B.F.E. I prefer basics when dependability is a top priority.
Factory LS is a joke IMHO. Again it came that way. If I keep this truck I'll put a No-slip in it when they are finally released.
If they finally get made for the front end i'll stick one there also.
Walking is not an option.
#24
JDF
A locking rear differential(or just "Locker") has nothing in common with the locking front hubs on your old 88. A locker is more like a LS. What the ls does is limit the difference in speed of the two rear wheels. On a vehicle without limited slip or a locker any time one wheel looses traction it spins freely while the tire with traction doesn't turn at all. It is designed this way so that the vehicle can make sharp turns on dry pavement with out excessive wear on tires or quirky handling.
Now onto a LS. In this set up there are clutch plates in the differential that keep both rear wheels turning at close to the same speed, when one wheel looses traction. Yet, there is enough slip allowed so that sharp turns are not a problem. There are 2 faults in this, first, it won't send full power to the wheel with grip when the other slips, only partial. the second is that the clucth plates wear out. Granted you will probably not really notice this, but it does wear, and gradually loose effectiveness.
Now a locker basically uses gears to give full power to both wheels even with one wheel off the ground. It is designed to lock up only wheen slip occurs. This is better than a LS in that there are no clutches to wear out, and it gives you full power to both wheels, but some people complain about the way it locks up , and some say it is not the best thing if you have to drive in icy weather. That is why the LS is the best choice for most people, just not those who REALLY need traction.
I'm not sure if that'll clear the air or just confuse people more, but there it is any how.
BTW JDF congrats on the new truck and the "MAN"ual transfer case
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BigBunnell
98 F150 4X4 XLT flareside V6 5sp K&N Flowmaster and some other goodies
A locking rear differential(or just "Locker") has nothing in common with the locking front hubs on your old 88. A locker is more like a LS. What the ls does is limit the difference in speed of the two rear wheels. On a vehicle without limited slip or a locker any time one wheel looses traction it spins freely while the tire with traction doesn't turn at all. It is designed this way so that the vehicle can make sharp turns on dry pavement with out excessive wear on tires or quirky handling.
Now onto a LS. In this set up there are clutch plates in the differential that keep both rear wheels turning at close to the same speed, when one wheel looses traction. Yet, there is enough slip allowed so that sharp turns are not a problem. There are 2 faults in this, first, it won't send full power to the wheel with grip when the other slips, only partial. the second is that the clucth plates wear out. Granted you will probably not really notice this, but it does wear, and gradually loose effectiveness.
Now a locker basically uses gears to give full power to both wheels even with one wheel off the ground. It is designed to lock up only wheen slip occurs. This is better than a LS in that there are no clutches to wear out, and it gives you full power to both wheels, but some people complain about the way it locks up , and some say it is not the best thing if you have to drive in icy weather. That is why the LS is the best choice for most people, just not those who REALLY need traction.
I'm not sure if that'll clear the air or just confuse people more, but there it is any how.
BTW JDF congrats on the new truck and the "MAN"ual transfer case
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BigBunnell
98 F150 4X4 XLT flareside V6 5sp K&N Flowmaster and some other goodies
#25
Two Questions... Hopefully I'll be able to order mine in the next couple months, and I also wanted to order it with the manual shifter (I hated the auto system on my '94 Ranger, although it never failed). I figured that the MANual shifter would be more reliable, and more mechanically simple. What is the procedure difference between ESOF and the stick? Can someone explain the differences in operation to me? Also, how much more cabin noise is there?
--Sean
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Happy Off-Roading!
Huntington Beach, CA
Soon to have '01 F-250LD
Administrator www.clubsi.com
RIP: '94 Ranger Splash S/C 4.0L 4x4 Auto
--Sean
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Happy Off-Roading!
Huntington Beach, CA
Soon to have '01 F-250LD
Administrator www.clubsi.com
RIP: '94 Ranger Splash S/C 4.0L 4x4 Auto
#26
Well, I've only had the new truck one week to the day.
With the "MAN"ual transfer case, you can put it into 4x4H any time in motion up to 55mph I think the manual said but probably not a good idea at that speed. If not in motion, put the tranny in "neutral" (not park) to shift the transfer case. To put it in 4x4 Low, you must be stopped and put tranny in neutral. I have not noticed any additional "noise" other than typical road and wind noise. They are trucks after all. I get a kick out of the guys in the stereo and speaker section. Nothing can sound as good in a truck as say a Lexus. Some of them even have performance exhaust systems as loud as a freight train. Go figure. The factory stock system I have even has "speed compensated volume" to cover up normal road noise increase as the truck goes faster. Lastly, I know the new front systems are more convenient, but I'm sure they don't stack up to traction of the old locking hubs, and would probably get better mileage by freeing up those front axles.
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2001 F150 SC SPORT 4X4 FLARESIDE
* Black
* 4.6 240 H.P.
* awesome factory 10 spoke 17" wheels
* "MAN"ual shift 4x4
* 3.55 Limited slip
* Captains chairs W/console
* Factory tube steps
* Slider
With the "MAN"ual transfer case, you can put it into 4x4H any time in motion up to 55mph I think the manual said but probably not a good idea at that speed. If not in motion, put the tranny in "neutral" (not park) to shift the transfer case. To put it in 4x4 Low, you must be stopped and put tranny in neutral. I have not noticed any additional "noise" other than typical road and wind noise. They are trucks after all. I get a kick out of the guys in the stereo and speaker section. Nothing can sound as good in a truck as say a Lexus. Some of them even have performance exhaust systems as loud as a freight train. Go figure. The factory stock system I have even has "speed compensated volume" to cover up normal road noise increase as the truck goes faster. Lastly, I know the new front systems are more convenient, but I'm sure they don't stack up to traction of the old locking hubs, and would probably get better mileage by freeing up those front axles.
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2001 F150 SC SPORT 4X4 FLARESIDE
* Black
* 4.6 240 H.P.
* awesome factory 10 spoke 17" wheels
* "MAN"ual shift 4x4
* 3.55 Limited slip
* Captains chairs W/console
* Factory tube steps
* Slider
#27
Whether its a **** or a stick, the main thing I like is auto hubs. I can't tell you how many times I would have gotten stuck b/c I was too lazy to get out (or it's pouring down rain) and lock the hubs. Halfway into a mud hole is the wrong time to realize that 4wd is needed. Whenever I was in doubt, I put it in 4wd. A lot of times I would use it even when not absolutley necessary just so I wouldn't rut up the road or field unnecessarily.
I know they don't always work perfectly, but I can always convert to manual hubs.
I know they don't always work perfectly, but I can always convert to manual hubs.