I want to drain the torque converter myself in my driveway but need some help getting the drain bolt lined up. Not sure how to do this.
A friend of mine tried doing the screwdriver on the starter thing, but it would always land just a few degrees off top dead center.

Do I need to:

1. turn the crankshaft manually (special tool)

2. Put it in D, stop the engine, turn the rear wheels

3. Pay the dealer $89.

If it's a special tool. Where Can I buy one?

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97 XLT SC w/62k mi. 3:55, 4.6L, 2" Fabtech coils w/arms & 2" add-a-leaks, snug top tonneau, Tow package, CD, Auto, avg. 17.2 MPG w/ Goodyear GA 255/75/16's
future mods: BFG 285/75/16's, 3" fabtech front coils, rotunda trans flush, B&M shift plus, fuzzy dice,
80-90k mi. mods: 3" spindles, centerline rims with 35's
<creativepen@yahoo.com>



[This message has been edited by The White Monkey (edited 09-21-2000).]

 

You need to use a breaker bar against the crank pully. This will allow you to turn the engine by hand and make it line up.

Jim

 

I used a remote starter switch. I fed it down between the engine and fender. Bump the starter a few times till it lines up. Took me 3 tries.

 

Spinning it until it stopped didn't work. It always landed just a couple degrees off.

I think the breaker bar will work, but I dont know what on looks like and I'm not sure where to buy one. Any help on this would be appreciated. Are there usually holes in the crankshaft pully? I've done this on a old-style 302 but haven't tackled a 4.6L yet.

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97 XLT SC w/62k mi. 3:55, 4.6L, 2" Fabtech coils w/arms & 2" add-a-leafs, snug lid, Tow package, CD, Auto, avg. 17.2 MPG w/ Goodyear GA 255/75/16's
future mods: BFG 285/75/16's, 3" fabtech front coils (Next week, whoo), Trans-go shift kit,
80-90k mi. mods: 3" spindles, centerline rims with 35's
<creativepen@yahoo.com>

 

Back when I was turning wrenches for a living, I actually had a tool made for turning flywheels - I'll try to describe it:

In essence, it was a large screw-driver that had a pivot point about 1/2 inch from the tip -- and from that pivit was a type of "J" hook that was about 4 inches long.

You'd use the thing by hooking (was spring loaded) the "J" hook on the teeth of the flywheel - and the point of the screw-driver-like bar would hook in the teeth some 4 inches away.

You'd turn the flywheel by pulling on the handle of the gizmo - thereby turning the flywheel.

You could make one very easily by taking a piece of 1/8" by 5/8" steel and bending a 1/2" 90-degree bend (via vise) on one end -- and cutting a box-like hole in the other end. Hook the hook-end on the flywheel and stick a screw-driver thru the box and into the flywheel teeth and pull on the screw-driver.

Sort-of related: You've noticed that the engine 'parks' in somewhat repeatable spots. I had a GMC diesel that had starter/flywheel trouble big-time. Due to the compression ratio of the diesel (21:1) and the firing order (no clue), they park in one of four even-spaced spots (every 90 degrees) -- and the starter drive beats the hell out of those four spots upon engagement.

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Y2K™ Jim

Toreador Red, Keyless XLT SC SB 5.4L E4x4 4wDisc/ABS, 3.73LS, Skid, HD 7700# Towing, LT-245's on Chrome, Tube-Steps, Captain's, 6CD, Tonneau, named: "Nick"

 

I've lost contact with my buddy who actually had one of these. So, I'll prolly just end up spending the few extra dollars. I'm trying to visualize the process of making one, but I think I just heard a couple cicuits fry up there in my head.

I do appreciate the description though. I'll keep pondering or just pay the man and forget I mentioned it. Thanks again.

 

Don't give up yet, its pretty simple.
Pry out the rubber plug on the bottom of the trans bell housing. Get a socket that will fit the nut in the middle of the crankshaft pulley. Use a proper length extension, and put a "breaker bar" on it. A breaker bar is a long handle with a square on the end that can take a socket. Also called a "T-handle". It is used to get more leverage, when a ratchet just isn't long enough. Find them along with socket wrenches. Get a 1/2 inch drive type.

Laying down crosswise in front of the truck, mark the pulley with chalk or something, so you know when you have gone around once. Turn Clockwise (only clockwise!) just a bit, then scoot over to the bellhousing hole to see if the plug lines up. Just turn a little bit at a time, or else the plug will go by the hole while you are turning, and you will go round and round, always missing seeing the plug (I'm an expert at turning it too much!). The chalk mark helps give you an idea of how far you've gone.

Remember to take the breaker bar off it before starting it later. Yes, I know that's a "duh" comment, but people do forget... WHAM!

 

I might have to buy a 1/2 extension but I finally think know what your talking about, maybe. I'll check it out.

I'm assumming that the clockwise only thing is so I don't run the chance of loosening the pulley from the crankshaft. I actually have one of these breaker bars (maybe) in my garage arsenal. (18" bar with 1/2" driver on the end and a swivel, It's kinda cheap and the pin keeps falling out but I've been using it to tighten suspension components and the like and I haven't broken it yet. Thank Grampa. I'll give it a twirl. Now If I could only figure out what type of fluid my truck likes.

If I can figure this one out, it might inspire me into tackling the shift kit proposition myself. Thanks again.

 

Your truck will like any fluid that has a Mercon V rating.

Mark

 

TCI Universal Flywheel Turning Tool, JEGS #890-894000, $23.99 . The technique Grandpa described works just fine; great advice. A 1/2" rachet with a hollow pipe over the handle for leverage and variable lengths for clearance works great. Good Luck !

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2000 F-150 XL,RC,LB,5.4,4R70W,3.55LS,
Class III tow/Payload #3/Convenience pkgs.,
4-wheel disc/ABS,Chestnut/Parchment 40/60,
Ford bedliner & gas/wheel/spare locks,
3" cold air box modification, Superchip,
Dynomax ultra-flow welded 3" cat-back,
3" exit Y-pipe, Hellwig rear anti-sway bar.

 

Bare with me, I'm used to T-5 5 speeds, which BTW uses mercon. Being the type to change tranny fluids myself, assuming I line up the TC drain hole and drain it, will the TC need to primed or anything? Or just add new fluid and GOOO!

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2000 XLT Sport,Black, 5.4L, 3.55 LS,Tow pkg, Rear 2in drop, Gibson Super truck, K&N.
86 5.0 Mustang LX w/off road h-pipe, Borla catback, FMS 65mm TB, K&N, Mac Racers choice shifter, MSD-6A,180 Degree thermostat,14 Degrees timing
93 Mustang Cobra #4946

 

I guess this is probably a "duh" question, but do I put the truck in N before turning the crankshaft. I would assume that this is the normal thing to do unless someone tells me otherwise. Might be P. Think it's P.

I've rebuilt some stuff but haven't had the pleasure of messing with a auto trans until now. I'm hoping a shift kit and clean fluid will extend it's life. I don't really hot-rod it much. Only when I'm terribly late, which isn't that often. I wouldn't bother with the shift kit either but there is this one hill (Kellog Hill) that likes to sends the trans half way between 3 & 4th if I dont turn off the OD button. I realize this is a normal comfort feature of the transmission for the mesh gears to overlap but to me it just seems like something that will prematurely wear out .

I want to put some synthetic fluid in there. I've already added 4.5 qt. of synlubeATF. The MerconV is supposed to be synthetic as well. I guess the dealer could tell me if mine takes Mercon IV or MerconV by the door tag.

I heard about this LE ATF stuff but it said, "not compatible with trans requiring Type-F" eeak. Well I dont know whether type-f and mercon are even in the same zip code. They Also have a Allison C-4 version for heavy dudty applications. http://www.le-inc.com/products/Tf/TF_HeavyDuty.html

Thanks for all the help so far. Doing my 3" coils tomorrow (lift). Hopefully, I'll get the trans squared away within a couple weeks.

 

TWF & 2fords: Keep it in Park. If you measure what you drain out (pouring into 1 gal. jugs is easy), you will have an idea approx. how much to put in. When you have put in about 1/2 to 2/3rds of the ATF, start it up. Just for 15-30 seconds or so, in Park only, then shut it off. This will refill the Torque Converter, and allow you to add the rest without it coming out the vent cap up on top of the trans.
Your '97 4R70W trans would have come with Mercon in it, which is labeled Dexron III/Mercon in stores.
Type F was a Ford/Lincoln/Mercury-only ATF for trans and P.Steering pumps of years ago, not compatible with Dexron/Mercon type.
Follow owners manual for dipstick check for final level, fluid temp is important, it expands with heat. Need a pretty level surface to get an accurate reading.

Don't know what to say about Mercon V vs. Mercon in a trans that orig. came with Mercon. I put Mercon V in an older E4OD (came with Mercon, its doing fine so far with V) when the word was V was fine as a replacement for straight Mercon use. Don't know if that is still the official Ford word, or if they backed off on that.
Mercon V is a semi-synthetic.

 

Mercon V is NOT recommended for any E4OD or 4R100. It is recommended for all 4R70W transmissions.

Mark

 

Well, hot dog. This is going to be fun. Went to sears to find a breaker bar today and I do already have one. The bolt connecting the pully to the crankshaft isn't that deep in there and will pobably work with a metric deep socket I have. Guessing around 26mm.

So I'm leaving it in park while I turn the crankshaft? Scares me a little but okay. I'll call a trans shop and confirm this just to be doubley safe. It makes sense anyways.

So ford switched to MerconV from Mercon for the 4R70W. Sorry, I don't know exactly when, but at least I know that much.

It sounds like using the MerconV won't mess things up for me, having the 4R70W. But apparently mine probably came with the Mercon originally.

Also, I was planning on sealing the threads on the TC drain bolt with gasket maker just to be safe. Any objections to this?

Thx, granpa, fill 1/2 way, spin for 30, fill the rest of the way. Pretty simple. Still want that trans go shift kit in there real bad.

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97 XLT SC w/62k mi. 3:55, 4.6L, 2" Fabtech coils w/arms & 2" add-a-leafs, snug lid, Tow package, CD, Auto, avg. 17.2 MPG w/ Goodyear GA 255/75/16's
future mods: BFG 285/75/16's, 3" fabtech front coils (Next week, whoo), Trans-go shift kit,
80-90k mi. mods: 3" spindles, centerline rims with 35's
<creativepen@yahoo.com>