My take-offs are always clunky, notchy, jerky...especially when cold, and I occasionally get grinding from 1-2 and 2-3. No big deal right? Well...I've noticed that with the truck "off", my 5 speed shifts like a dream...smooth, fast, perfect...one thing though. POINTLESS!!! Well, while running, at a stoplight, if I press in the clutch, it takes a good bit or pressure and about 3 secs. before it slips into 1st., but once this occurs, it will blast through the gears like it does while not running. Same thing no matter what gear I try first after first depressing the clutch. However, if I put it into neutral, let off the clutch, and try again...same thing...takes pressure and about 3 - 5 secs. to get back into gear. Is this normal? When I try to FORCE it into gear, to no avail., it sometimes goes, "thud". Believe me, no amount of god power will get this b!tch to shift into gear right after pressing in the clutch. It still takes 3 - 5 secs., and it pisses me off. Sometimes I get really frusterated with it, and bang the hell out of the gears, just praying for something to fail before my warrenty expires. I love it, I hate it.

-AR

 

Jackal,

Sounds like the clutch is not fully disengaging. Test: on a lever surface rev the engine to 2000 rpm and shift from 1st to reverse and back again. There should be no grinding and it should engage easily. The slave cylinders on these trucks are prone to leaking.

Regards

Jean Marc Chartier

 

definitely doesn't sound right. my 5 speed isn't "smooth" by any means but it isn't bad either. no delays whatsoever before shifting into gear.
sounds like you may have to bleed the clutch. should be a good place to start any way. or check for leaks as stated above.

 

...the above test works fine, and no leaks.

-AR

 

Hey guys,
I bet my 5-speed will do something none of yours will do. You know how most people measure their 0-60 times in seconds? I don't need no stinking seconds; I can measure my 0-60 in MINUTES!!! My 4.6 5-speed is a DOG! I don't show any errors with a Check Engine light. The truck is a '98 SC Lariat 4x2 with 63000 miles on it. As far as I know no major mechanical work has ever been done to it. It just runs out of power at, let's say, 2500 to 3000 rpm. I actually haven't done a 0-60 test (I was being sarcastic), but I know that I'm having to tach it up to at least 3500 on my 1-2 and 2-3 shift just to keep up with the grandmas in their Delta 88's from a stop. It seems to have sufficient power at 60 to 70 mph for passing and hill-climbing, but getting there takes FOREVER. It's just like it's 'struggling' to get to any speed in a reasonable amount of time. I'm taking it in to a shop Monday to let them take it for a spin and tell me what they think, even though that's a scary proposition, too. This is not the same power I had in my '97 SC Lariat 4x2 4.6 auto that I drove for 5 years. And supposedly in the 5-speed more HP is getting to the ground that isn't being sucked up by the slushbox. Not here!!! What are your suggestions? Plugs, O2 sensors, MAF, fuel filter, or otherwise? I really don't want to be at the mercy of a shop who may or may not take me for a ride. Thanks for the help.

 

Have a muffler shop do a back pressure test on the cats.

-AR

 

my 5-speed shifts rough when its cold. plus when you try to rush it it thuds sometimes (never has grinded, though). if you go slowly it shifts like a honda, but it sucks when you try to shift quickly. the only bad shift is the 1-2, when its cold... sometimes it will just get stuck and not go in unless i really pull it down into gear. after the first few shifts its usually fine, though. i'm running redline D4 ATF which seemed to help a little, but its still really notchy. 2 of my friends have the exact same truck as me, and theirs are the same, except that my clutch seems to engage more twoards the top of the pedal travel (mine engages about 2/3 of the way off the floor and both theirs is about 1/3 of the way off the floor). i guess this isnt a bad thing for mine, since its definately disengaging when i push it to the floor, and it dosent feel or smell like its slipping at all when i'm not on the pedal.

anyway, the general consensus is this isnt the best transmission, but it seems to be fairly tough (it took 330 ft.lbs in thunderbird SC), but rough shifting with synchro problems sometimes.

 

JRM1493,

So you did notice a difference with the Redline ATF? I've been debating on getting some for my 2001.

Has anybody tried the Mobil 1 synthetic ATF?

Mitch

 

jrm1493 reading your post is an exact copy of what my tranny shifts like! I switched to Redline D4 two weeks ago and did help some, but not as much a I thought it would. So if this tranny was in the Thunderbird SC shouldn't a Hurst or B&M shifter bolt up then? Maybe just working on lengtheneing the stick is all we need to do then! Hmm... I might have to try that out!

BroncoAZ, I would try the Mobil 1 ATF since it would cost half as much as the Redline would!

 

Who's gonna try this first? Summit has them for $169.

http://www.bmracing.com/noflash/prod...ual/45058.html

 

99flareside,

That short throw unit from B&M looks like it might work. I'm not sure if the shifter will bolt on to it or not, but with welding, anything is possible. I would like to say I'll try it first, but unfortunately my offroad truck needs tires and a clutch. Maybe in the spring...

If anybody does try it, please let me know how it works!

Mitch

 

I was digging arund and found some info on the M5R2 that might help see if that shifter will work:

Mazda built 5 speed fully synchronized transmission found in 1988 to present Ford F150 series trucks and full size Broncos. Aluminum case, extension housing, and shift cover, with integral bell housing. Very similar in design to M5R1, but larger with shift lever located in center of shift cover. Available in 2 and 4WD versions. 1995 and later models have top cover reverse light switch moved to forward corner of shift cover. In 1996 case is changed to accommodate modular motor (4.6L), with starter bolt pattern being triangular. In 1999 the case was changed for 4.2L 4wd drive vehicles. The case is very similar to earlier style units with case length shorter on 4.6L and 4.2L models.

I'm not sure if the case changes will effect the shifter cover design. I'm thinking the different reverse switch location might present a challenge. I guess we'll find out when somebody tries it. I've got a few other thoughts as well. Would the decreased leverage of the shifter make it harder to get into gear if the notchy feel continues? Would the same decreased leverage make the synchros last longer?

I've noticed that I don't have quite the same notchy feel the rest of you guys are talking about, at least not in the same capacity. Mine shifts pretty well, whether fast shifts or normal ones. I have no problems power shifting from first to second either. The only thing I notice is sometimes I've got to finess it into first when the truck is not rolling, but there is no delay.

Maybe I'm just too used to the old T-18 in my Bronco. The M5R2 is a dream by comparison...

Mitch

 

DO NOT buy that part. The bolt pattern on the truck lower gear shift lever base is triangular and uses 3 bolts the Super coupe uses a square pattern with 4 bolts.

Regards

Jean Marc Chartier

 

Jackal, that dosn't sound like the usual sloppieness of this transmission. The effects of the cold on a manual always freaked me out. Check for the obvious and pray for warmth.

Fordman3, I'm sorry to here that your truck is a dog. I've got the 4.6 with the 5-speed. I think it's fine. It will dog at low rpm. Don't most? If I think I'm going to need a boost I'll let the rpm's get up there a bit. I think I get the most power above 3000.

OK, so no one has tried the SC shifter yet? Thanks JMC, you may have saved some one.
I still think if there are enough requests one of the companies will make the thing. Sooner or later it will happen. Sooner would be better!

Tom

 

JMC would you know of a reason why the Hurst shifter for the 88-95 F-150's would not work on ours? Just trying to keep hope alive!