While in 2wd if I shift into Reverse from "Park" seems to be no issue. If i shift into Reverse from either Neutral or Drive, it will not go into reverse. It just sits there as if in Neutral. Truck will roll. If I shift into park and then into Reverse, no issue and goes right into reverse with no problem. Seems to drive fine through all gears.
Is this an indicator of a worn out Reverse Band, or maybe some solenoid issue?
Fluid has been checked and is at proper level and appears to be clean.
Please Advise.

 

It's more likely a loose or misaligned linkage or DTRS (digital transmission range sensor) issue.

 

Linkage seems to be all lined up correctly. I ordered a replacement DTRS today. I'll post back after I get the new one installed. Hopefully that will fix it.

 

It can't be the DTRS. No matter what the DTRS tells or doesn't tell the PCM it will go into reverse. Nothing electrical can prevent it from going into reverse.

My most likely suspect is the shift cable attachment to the steering column. It's at the end of the column under the dash. There are two #30 Torx screws that are well known for coming loose and causing problems just like this. Crawl under the dash and look up towards the dash. You will see the cable attached to a bracket. Those two screws hold the bracket to the shift tube.

 

Thanks, I have the center console shifter not the column shifter. Anything similar there?

 

I am not familiar with the console shifter.

 

Mark, What tells the trans. to shift into reverse ? Mine is a colium shift & I will check for loose screws tomorrow. When shifted into reverse does the lever tell the valve body when to send pressure to the reverse band to activate. If you have time & don't mind reading my post = Is 4R75E same as 4R75W dated 04/17/2020. Mine started not going into reverse about 2 weeks back & everything else worked & shifted just fine. If you read my post you notice I just assumed the reverse band broke & with 264,000 + on the clock that it needed to be overhauled. What amazed me, was how good it looked inside, pump nose sealing rings, inside of pump, clutch packs, both bands, gears,& case. Local shop told me to look for cracked welds, & cracks in the clutch hubs, damaged snap ring grooves. I bought the truck used a few years ago so I didn't have too much history on it ,But the trans pan evidently had never been off of the trans. because that famous yellow plug was lying in the pan when I dropped it.

Thanks in Advance for any information;
Ed R. (Skidlid)

 

Skidlid,
check out this post I found.
https://www.f150forum.com/f4/shiftin...eutral-250711/

 

I wish I had found this site earlier as it may have saved me some Time diagnosing the problem. But with the miles on the clock, I 'm sure it was going to need rebuild soon any way. At least this way, when I get it back together, I'll know to check the cable adjustment. After dissembling the trans. I was at a loss when I couldn't find any damage inside. I had decided it had to be a control problem, didn't know where to look = electrical, linkage adjustment, or fluid pressure? How do you feel about reusing the torque convertor or would you replace it? The trans. was doing a fine job except for reverse, shifting in forward was really smooth when pulling my boat.

Again, Thranks in Advance;
Ed R..

 

ALWAYS replace the torque converter when you pull and break down a transmission. Also flush the cooler lines.

 

Be sure to read the warranty clause on the transmission.

Most transmission companies want the following to allow for the warranty to stay active:

1. Installed by a bonafide shop.
2. New converter.
3. New transmission cooler.
4. All lines flushed or replaced.
5. No teflon tape on fittings.

 

Reverse is selected by the shift linkage moving the manual valve in the valve body. There is NOTHING electrical that can prevent reverse from engaging. If park and drive both work you can be pretty certain that the manual valve is working. It can't work on both sides of reverse and not work in reverse. I think the linkage has slack or is/was misadjusted.

 

Thanks for the advice glc, I'm ordering one now. What do you recommend for flushing the lines? I heard some use diesel fuel, but not sure that is a good idea?

 

https://www.autozone.com/motor-oil-a...25oz/36205_0_0

 

So looking under the truck today I found this grommet loose. I think it's supposed to snap on but there is no snap to it.