Will I notice an actually diffence with LS or E locker?
Will I notice an actually diffence with LS or E locker?
I'm 2wd with an open diff. Therefore I'm 1wd and it's rather annoying. Looking to change out the rear with something that won't cost a crazy amount but will help in snow.
Does limited slip really help that much? I've heard good things about the Detroit truetrac.
Obviously an E locker would be the best. But I'm guessing it would cost a lot.
What do you recommend and will it be worth it? As in, I'd actually have an improvement with traction that would be noticeable. How well does a LS actually limit slip?
Thanks!
Does limited slip really help that much? I've heard good things about the Detroit truetrac.
Obviously an E locker would be the best. But I'm guessing it would cost a lot.
What do you recommend and will it be worth it? As in, I'd actually have an improvement with traction that would be noticeable. How well does a LS actually limit slip?
Thanks!
Any limited slip will help a lot. I would buy the trutrac. On stock trucks they're basically bulletproof. An E-Locker is a step up, since you can fully lock the axle if you want, but would be overkill on a stock truck
agree with everything said here. and I love my limited slip and hate the fact that ford is moving away from them. to me id rather have the rear end ready any time than have to push a button...
Thanks guys.
Two more questions..
Would an oem LS vs a detriot make a huge difference? Detriot is like $460 and would to oe version be a lot cheaper?
Lastly, is this something a 30 year old dude that doesn't know too much about differentials could do myself? I have access to a garage full of tools. I've done coilovers, ball joins, suspension stuff, etc. with the help of a YouTube video, should I try to take it on myself?
Two more questions..
Would an oem LS vs a detriot make a huge difference? Detriot is like $460 and would to oe version be a lot cheaper?
Lastly, is this something a 30 year old dude that doesn't know too much about differentials could do myself? I have access to a garage full of tools. I've done coilovers, ball joins, suspension stuff, etc. with the help of a YouTube video, should I try to take it on myself?
If I had to buy one new, I would get a trutrac and not mess with the factory LS. Truetrac is stronger and will last forever.
I also WOULD NOT install this myself. If you don't get the ring/pinon gear mesh just right you can seize your rear end.
I also WOULD NOT install this myself. If you don't get the ring/pinon gear mesh just right you can seize your rear end.
I'll go with the truetrac and I'm going to have a place called the 4x4 center do the installation. They should know what they're doing based on the name. Ha
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Whoever can get it cheapest for you. Summit, Jegs, Rockauto, 4wheelparts, and a bunch of others carry them. Amazon has one for $480 plus free shipping
Whoever can get it cheapest for you. Summit, Jegs, Rockauto, 4wheelparts, and a bunch of others carry them. Amazon has one for $480 plus free shipping
Amazon.com: Detroit Locker 913A561 Trutrac Differential with 31 Spline for Ford 8.8": Automotive
Amazon.com: Detroit Locker 913A561 Trutrac Differential with 31 Spline for Ford 8.8": Automotive
The 2000 F150,5.4,Scab4x4 I bought new had the Traction Lok and it worked fine for 170k miles that I know of.
My current 2002F150,5.4Scab4x4 has a Trac Lok and it is still working fine at 129k miles. I don't do offroading except for some riding in the sand on the beach and I take it easy there. It works great still because I can feel it locking up or trying to lock up on turns if I give it a little more than usual throttle.
My current 2002F150,5.4Scab4x4 has a Trac Lok and it is still working fine at 129k miles. I don't do offroading except for some riding in the sand on the beach and I take it easy there. It works great still because I can feel it locking up or trying to lock up on turns if I give it a little more than usual throttle.
So how big of a job is this? The one place I called said to have LS installed the ENTIRE rear end has to be completely taken apart and said it would like 8 hours of labor being $100 an hour.
Around $1300 just to add limited slip?
Any other input to help get me in the right direction? I'd like to add the truetrac, but I definitely don't want to spend $800 just for labor.
Around $1300 just to add limited slip?
Any other input to help get me in the right direction? I'd like to add the truetrac, but I definitely don't want to spend $800 just for labor.
I thought it was just the diff cover coming off, changing the actual mechanical part, sealing it back up and adding oil.
I'll keep checking around. What else needs to be removed, disassembled, and/or replaced when swapping out a non limited slip for a limited slip? The guy at this shop seemed to think everything needed to be taken apart and changed, from the axle seals, to the wheels taken off to the driveshaft. Is this true or did he not know what he was talking about?
I thought it was just the diff cover coming off, changing the actual mechanical part, sealing it back up and adding oil.
I thought it was just the diff cover coming off, changing the actual mechanical part, sealing it back up and adding oil.





