4x4 Gear Shift Problem
Thread Starter
|
Member
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 68
Likes: 1
From: Phoenix Az.
4x4 Gear Shift Problem
I have a 2001 F150, 4x4.
When I bought the truck the 4wd worked on 4L only. This past year I was in a steep and deep canyon (hunting) and when I went to get out I noticed that my front wheels were not spinning like the rear tires. The truck feels and sounds like when it shifts into 4w drive but the 4w drive is not activated, the steering wheel feels like when it’s in 2w drive.
I took it to a transition shop, I was told that the part that shifts it into 4w drive gear was wore out, the part is mounted below the transfer with three blots I believe he said.
I do not remember the name of the part; does anyone know which part it is?
And where I can buy it at a lower price than the dealer?
I'm getting ready to go elk hunting and I need to get this fixed.
Thanks
When I bought the truck the 4wd worked on 4L only. This past year I was in a steep and deep canyon (hunting) and when I went to get out I noticed that my front wheels were not spinning like the rear tires. The truck feels and sounds like when it shifts into 4w drive but the 4w drive is not activated, the steering wheel feels like when it’s in 2w drive.
I took it to a transition shop, I was told that the part that shifts it into 4w drive gear was wore out, the part is mounted below the transfer with three blots I believe he said.
I do not remember the name of the part; does anyone know which part it is?
And where I can buy it at a lower price than the dealer?
I'm getting ready to go elk hunting and I need to get this fixed.
Thanks
Global Moderator &
Senior Member
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 7,890
Likes: 61
From: Among javelinas and scorpions in Zoniestan
Edgar - I just deleted the identical post to this one that you put in the "Other Powertrain" forum. Please don't start multiple threads on the same subject. It just causes confusion and takes up space needlessly.
- Jack
- Jack
Member
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
From: West Bemd, WI
Edgar are you refering to the Transfercase motor?
Did your mechanic tell you that it shifts the transfercase between 2wd 4HI and 4LO? If it is then I would think the is refering to the transfercase motor. It is a worm gear stepper motor that takes the place of the old fashioned mechanical shift on the floor linkage. It works similar to a window motor just with sensors to determine position.
You can pick these up at most Auto Part stores. They normally do not stock them but can generally have the in 1-2 days. Other wise http://www.rockauto.com seems to be a good place to get parts at a discounted price. I was just looking and it seems that Dorman and A1 Cardone both sell a remanufactured Transfercase motor for the 2001. Both are good brands and I use thier parts frequently.
Good luck
Did your mechanic tell you that it shifts the transfercase between 2wd 4HI and 4LO? If it is then I would think the is refering to the transfercase motor. It is a worm gear stepper motor that takes the place of the old fashioned mechanical shift on the floor linkage. It works similar to a window motor just with sensors to determine position.
You can pick these up at most Auto Part stores. They normally do not stock them but can generally have the in 1-2 days. Other wise http://www.rockauto.com seems to be a good place to get parts at a discounted price. I was just looking and it seems that Dorman and A1 Cardone both sell a remanufactured Transfercase motor for the 2001. Both are good brands and I use thier parts frequently.
Good luck
Thread Starter
|
Member
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 68
Likes: 1
From: Phoenix Az.
I finally replaced the transfer case motor, but unfortionitly it is not the only problem I have.
The 4wheel actuator is not working properly. The actuator is operated with two vacuum lines, red and blue thin vacuum lines.
The blue line locks in the front 4x4 and the red line unlocks the front 4x4 drives.
I did not want to spend $124 on a new actuator if it is not the problem, so I would like to try to be sure what the problem could be.
I got under the truck and I had my son turn on the truck and switch on & off the 4x4, I disconnected the two vacuum lines & placed them on my bottom lip to feel the difference in vacuum. They both felt around the same amount of suction while switch from on to off. If I switch the lines on the actuator, then the 4x4 locks in but does not retract leaving the 4x4 on (the red line seems to have the stronger vacuum, which should be the retracting/unlocking line ). I have looked over the blue line many times and cannot find a cracked portion on any part of it. I took it to an uncle that has a hand pump with a gauge and a thin nozzle. I disconnect the lines from the actuator side and connected the pump, the red vacuum line holds 15 lbs of vacuum and the blue line holds 0lbs of vacuum (while the truck was turned off). We could not find a break on the blue line up to the firewall.
Does anyone know if there is a part under the dash that could be causing me this problem or could it be the switch?
Thank you.
The 4wheel actuator is not working properly. The actuator is operated with two vacuum lines, red and blue thin vacuum lines.
The blue line locks in the front 4x4 and the red line unlocks the front 4x4 drives.
I did not want to spend $124 on a new actuator if it is not the problem, so I would like to try to be sure what the problem could be.
I got under the truck and I had my son turn on the truck and switch on & off the 4x4, I disconnected the two vacuum lines & placed them on my bottom lip to feel the difference in vacuum. They both felt around the same amount of suction while switch from on to off. If I switch the lines on the actuator, then the 4x4 locks in but does not retract leaving the 4x4 on (the red line seems to have the stronger vacuum, which should be the retracting/unlocking line ). I have looked over the blue line many times and cannot find a cracked portion on any part of it. I took it to an uncle that has a hand pump with a gauge and a thin nozzle. I disconnect the lines from the actuator side and connected the pump, the red vacuum line holds 15 lbs of vacuum and the blue line holds 0lbs of vacuum (while the truck was turned off). We could not find a break on the blue line up to the firewall.
Does anyone know if there is a part under the dash that could be causing me this problem or could it be the switch?
Thank you.
Member
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
From: West Bemd, WI
Edgar,
I think I know what is going on. I had a nearly identical situation on my 98 with floor shift.
On the passenger side firewall, right under there where the hood meets the firewall, there are two vacuum solenoids.
Disengage solenoid 6L3Z-9H465-A (identified by electrical connector rib at 9:00 position)
Engage solenoid 6L3Z-9H465-B (connector rib at 6:00 position).
One pulls vacuum to engage, one pulls vacuum to disengage.
Mine had been contaminated by water and freezing ruining the diaphragm inside the solenoid. I wasn't able to pull vacuum. I replaced them with Dorman part#s 600-400 and 600-401. I bought them on Amazon and saved over half from buying them from any of my local part stores. Only took a couple minutes to swap with my quarter inch drive ratchet.
Hope this helps.
I think I know what is going on. I had a nearly identical situation on my 98 with floor shift.
On the passenger side firewall, right under there where the hood meets the firewall, there are two vacuum solenoids.
Disengage solenoid 6L3Z-9H465-A (identified by electrical connector rib at 9:00 position)
Engage solenoid 6L3Z-9H465-B (connector rib at 6:00 position).
One pulls vacuum to engage, one pulls vacuum to disengage.
Mine had been contaminated by water and freezing ruining the diaphragm inside the solenoid. I wasn't able to pull vacuum. I replaced them with Dorman part#s 600-400 and 600-401. I bought them on Amazon and saved over half from buying them from any of my local part stores. Only took a couple minutes to swap with my quarter inch drive ratchet.
Hope this helps.
Member
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
From: West Bemd, WI
Edgar, This is the article I used to diagnose my ford.
This was posted to another ford site by a user called revytrucks.
"How to Troubleshoot and Fix F150 4X4 1997-2003
I am posting this because it took me AGES to find this information and peice it together from many sources all over the internet. From a girl who knew NOTHING about these systems a few weeks ago - here is a quick and easy guide to troubleshooting your 4X4 problems -- mostly for Manual shift on the floor (MSOF) systems or what goes on mechanically after you press the button on the electronic systems. All you need for these tests is a friend, and a socket set.
The 4X4 works with two systems - the shifter on the floor manually engages the transfer case. It also causes a relay to ground one of two solenoids that cause vacuum lines to activate an actuator which engages the front differential. If either of these do not work, your 4X4 won't work.
In my case, ad most that I have read, the 4X4 simply does not engage and the dash light either always goes on or does not go on.
1. Rule out transfer case problems: This is easy - get someone to put your truck in 4X4 and roll forward while you peek underneath from the side. If the front drive shaft is turning, your transfer case is fine and engaged.
2. Check the fuse! #23 by the hood lever and parking brake under the front dash.
3. Check the functioning of the solenoids: this is easy as well. The solenoids are located in the passenger side of the engine compartment directly behind the battery on the firewall.
From what I have read, a good indication of a problem here is the absence of the dash light. You can get fancy and test them electrically (they should each have 12V power all of the time) but the easiest way is to put your fingers on the plastic caps and feel and listen for a click as someone shifts your truck in and out of 4X4. If they click - they are working! If not, this is likely your problem. It is a common problem apparently for these years of trucks to get water in the solenoids which then freezes and cracks them.
Here is some good info and part numbers if this is your problem
"The right solenoid (E8AE-9H465-AA) controls the vacuum to the return side of axle engagement diaphram. The left solenoid (E8AE-9H465-BA) controls the vacuum to the activation side of the axle engagement diaphram. Ford has been having chronic problems with water entry into these solenoids, corroding them from the inside and seizing them,as you've seen!>>
They've been redesigned and those old part numbers (E8AE-9H465-AA/BA) have been superseded.
The latest designs are listed as:
Disengage solenoid 6L3Z-9H465-A (identified by electrical connector rib at 9:00 position)
Engage solenoid 6L3Z-9H465-B (connector rib at 6:00 position).
3. Check your vacuum lines: This is a little tricky to do becuase they wind their way from the solenoids all the way to the 4WD actuator on the front axle. One hose leaves from each solenoid at the front (close side to the battery) and one is pink and the other is blue(greenish if older). Follow the lines down as best as you can, checking for spots with wear or rubbing. Also make note if they seem old and brittle as there could be a crack you don't see. Mine were rubbing a bit on the passengers side wheel well so check there. Now crawl under the truck and in the centre on the axle is the actuator diaphragm. It is under a cover that is easily removed with a socket and the two hoses are attached to it. Pull the hoses off and while the truck is on, and someone shifts it in and out, put a finger over the end of each hose. The vacuum should alternate hoses when shifted and the pressure should be equal although it is surprisingly not a strong pull. If your hoses look good and suck like I said, they should be all good (this also confirms that your solenoids, and vacuum reservoir are working as well.)
4. Vacuum actuator function: This is easy to check. Crawl under your truck, take off the cover for the actuator and watch as your friend shifts from 4X4 and back. When the truck is shifted to 4X4, the shaft should slide into the diaphragm, moving the lever it is connected to to the passenger side direction. When shifted back to 2 wheel, the shaft should slide out of the diaphragm towards the drivers side. The movement is about 2 inches total and happens smoothly.
If this works, then you may want to check to see if the shift fork (the lever that the actuator moves) is not bent or broken, or the pin that holds it in place is not sheared. It this all good, then maybe your front differential needs help?
If the diaphragm moves stiff and short, it is one of two problems: there is a tear in the diaphragm or the shaft has corroded and is stiff and needs lube. To check if the diaphragm is just stiff, assist the truck by pushing the shaft in an out by hand. This should engage and disengage the 4X4. When I did this, I engaged the 4X by pushing the shaft in but it was very stiff and hand to pull it out again with leverage from a screwdriver. Mine was just stiff and needed lubrication - which worked! If you can move it freely by hand, I would say there is a tear in the diaphragm and you probably need a new one. Try ebay -- they are $100 where at Ford they are $460!! Part number is F65Z-3G360-BA
Hopefully this helps and will guide some other less than mechanical people towards fixing a problem for cheap or free!"
This was posted to another ford site by a user called revytrucks.
"How to Troubleshoot and Fix F150 4X4 1997-2003
I am posting this because it took me AGES to find this information and peice it together from many sources all over the internet. From a girl who knew NOTHING about these systems a few weeks ago - here is a quick and easy guide to troubleshooting your 4X4 problems -- mostly for Manual shift on the floor (MSOF) systems or what goes on mechanically after you press the button on the electronic systems. All you need for these tests is a friend, and a socket set.
The 4X4 works with two systems - the shifter on the floor manually engages the transfer case. It also causes a relay to ground one of two solenoids that cause vacuum lines to activate an actuator which engages the front differential. If either of these do not work, your 4X4 won't work.
In my case, ad most that I have read, the 4X4 simply does not engage and the dash light either always goes on or does not go on.
1. Rule out transfer case problems: This is easy - get someone to put your truck in 4X4 and roll forward while you peek underneath from the side. If the front drive shaft is turning, your transfer case is fine and engaged.
2. Check the fuse! #23 by the hood lever and parking brake under the front dash.
3. Check the functioning of the solenoids: this is easy as well. The solenoids are located in the passenger side of the engine compartment directly behind the battery on the firewall.
From what I have read, a good indication of a problem here is the absence of the dash light. You can get fancy and test them electrically (they should each have 12V power all of the time) but the easiest way is to put your fingers on the plastic caps and feel and listen for a click as someone shifts your truck in and out of 4X4. If they click - they are working! If not, this is likely your problem. It is a common problem apparently for these years of trucks to get water in the solenoids which then freezes and cracks them.
Here is some good info and part numbers if this is your problem
"The right solenoid (E8AE-9H465-AA) controls the vacuum to the return side of axle engagement diaphram. The left solenoid (E8AE-9H465-BA) controls the vacuum to the activation side of the axle engagement diaphram. Ford has been having chronic problems with water entry into these solenoids, corroding them from the inside and seizing them,as you've seen!>>
They've been redesigned and those old part numbers (E8AE-9H465-AA/BA) have been superseded.
The latest designs are listed as:
Disengage solenoid 6L3Z-9H465-A (identified by electrical connector rib at 9:00 position)
Engage solenoid 6L3Z-9H465-B (connector rib at 6:00 position).
3. Check your vacuum lines: This is a little tricky to do becuase they wind their way from the solenoids all the way to the 4WD actuator on the front axle. One hose leaves from each solenoid at the front (close side to the battery) and one is pink and the other is blue(greenish if older). Follow the lines down as best as you can, checking for spots with wear or rubbing. Also make note if they seem old and brittle as there could be a crack you don't see. Mine were rubbing a bit on the passengers side wheel well so check there. Now crawl under the truck and in the centre on the axle is the actuator diaphragm. It is under a cover that is easily removed with a socket and the two hoses are attached to it. Pull the hoses off and while the truck is on, and someone shifts it in and out, put a finger over the end of each hose. The vacuum should alternate hoses when shifted and the pressure should be equal although it is surprisingly not a strong pull. If your hoses look good and suck like I said, they should be all good (this also confirms that your solenoids, and vacuum reservoir are working as well.)
4. Vacuum actuator function: This is easy to check. Crawl under your truck, take off the cover for the actuator and watch as your friend shifts from 4X4 and back. When the truck is shifted to 4X4, the shaft should slide into the diaphragm, moving the lever it is connected to to the passenger side direction. When shifted back to 2 wheel, the shaft should slide out of the diaphragm towards the drivers side. The movement is about 2 inches total and happens smoothly.
If this works, then you may want to check to see if the shift fork (the lever that the actuator moves) is not bent or broken, or the pin that holds it in place is not sheared. It this all good, then maybe your front differential needs help?
If the diaphragm moves stiff and short, it is one of two problems: there is a tear in the diaphragm or the shaft has corroded and is stiff and needs lube. To check if the diaphragm is just stiff, assist the truck by pushing the shaft in an out by hand. This should engage and disengage the 4X4. When I did this, I engaged the 4X by pushing the shaft in but it was very stiff and hand to pull it out again with leverage from a screwdriver. Mine was just stiff and needed lubrication - which worked! If you can move it freely by hand, I would say there is a tear in the diaphragm and you probably need a new one. Try ebay -- they are $100 where at Ford they are $460!! Part number is F65Z-3G360-BA
Hopefully this helps and will guide some other less than mechanical people towards fixing a problem for cheap or free!"
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
|
Member
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 68
Likes: 1
From: Phoenix Az.
[IMG]c:[/IMG]I just got done checking the system and these are my results. I first checked with a hand vacuum pump each area. I first checked the two vacuum solenoids (on the passenger side on the firewall). The right vacuum solenoid with the pink/red line held the vacuum, the left solenoid with the light blue v-line, I kept pumping and it would not create a vacuum (tests were done once with the truck on then off). Each solenoid did click when it was turned on the off. I also checked the EGR valve and it did hold 15lbs of vacuum, then I checked the EGR Vacuum Regulator Solenoid (on the driver side firewall), I kept pumping to create a vacuum but it did not.
I think I need to replace the vacuum solenoid on the left side (passenger side on the firewall). Unless someone can give me a better idea.
I looked for the two solenoids but the only one that I can find is part #DORMAN Part # 600401 {#6L3Z9H465A} 4WD & Evaporative Emissions Solenoid 18.2 mm Wide; Node at 9:00 position" but, I think this one is to disengage and the one I think I need is #6L3Z9H465B TO ENGAGE. Does anyone know if I can interchange the two solenoids?
Thanks for all your help.
I think I need to replace the vacuum solenoid on the left side (passenger side on the firewall). Unless someone can give me a better idea.
I looked for the two solenoids but the only one that I can find is part #DORMAN Part # 600401 {#6L3Z9H465A} 4WD & Evaporative Emissions Solenoid 18.2 mm Wide; Node at 9:00 position" but, I think this one is to disengage and the one I think I need is #6L3Z9H465B TO ENGAGE. Does anyone know if I can interchange the two solenoids?
Thanks for all your help.
Last edited by EdgarF150; Sep 9, 2013 at 12:48 AM.
Member
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
From: West Bemd, WI
Edgar,
I don't think they are interchangeable, I think one is normally open and the other is normally closed.
Here are the parts,
Engage
Disengage
Hope this helps, From reading your post I wonder if you have a cracked vacuum line. If you unhook both sided of the vacuum line and put a plug on one end can you pull vacuum? You said you were having problems getting vacuum on the light blue line. From what I remember that line runs to the actuator on the front differential. If you disconnect it at both ends and then plug one end before pulling vacuum on the other and it holds then I would think that there is an issue with the front actuator. If it doesn't hold I would think that you have a cracked vacuum line.
Hope this steers you in the right direction.
I don't think they are interchangeable, I think one is normally open and the other is normally closed.
Here are the parts,
Engage
Disengage
Hope this helps, From reading your post I wonder if you have a cracked vacuum line. If you unhook both sided of the vacuum line and put a plug on one end can you pull vacuum? You said you were having problems getting vacuum on the light blue line. From what I remember that line runs to the actuator on the front differential. If you disconnect it at both ends and then plug one end before pulling vacuum on the other and it holds then I would think that there is an issue with the front actuator. If it doesn't hold I would think that you have a cracked vacuum line.
Hope this steers you in the right direction.
Thread Starter
|
Member
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 68
Likes: 1
From: Phoenix Az.
ajcasper, thanks for your help.
I ordered the two vacuum solenoids and I installed them yesterday. The 4x4 seems to be working like before.
Actually the truck is working better than before. When I switch the 4WD control to 4H the truck did not move forward (D) or backwards (R). It was like if it was on neutral, the truck only moved on 4WD control to 2H or 4L. The truck was like this since I bought it. I did change the transmission oil a few months ago and I did not see any metallic in the oil. With the new vacuum solenoids, the 4H works, I did not think that the solenoids had anything to do with the 4H, but it is working.
Little by little I'm fixing the truck like it should be.
Thank You
I ordered the two vacuum solenoids and I installed them yesterday. The 4x4 seems to be working like before.
Actually the truck is working better than before. When I switch the 4WD control to 4H the truck did not move forward (D) or backwards (R). It was like if it was on neutral, the truck only moved on 4WD control to 2H or 4L. The truck was like this since I bought it. I did change the transmission oil a few months ago and I did not see any metallic in the oil. With the new vacuum solenoids, the 4H works, I did not think that the solenoids had anything to do with the 4H, but it is working.
Little by little I'm fixing the truck like it should be.
Thank You
Last edited by EdgarF150; Oct 2, 2013 at 08:04 PM.
Member
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
From: West Bemd, WI
Glad to hear you got it fixed. Hope this dialog can help others with similar problems.
I also had no idea that the vacuum solenoids could affect the transfer case motor. I guess that could make sense seeing as how on my manual shift the transfer case has the switch to tell my computer to engage the solenoids for the front axle.
Keep on trucking
ajcasper
I also had no idea that the vacuum solenoids could affect the transfer case motor. I guess that could make sense seeing as how on my manual shift the transfer case has the switch to tell my computer to engage the solenoids for the front axle.
Keep on trucking
ajcasper