transmition fluid temperature
#1
#4
fluid temp.
if some body know that i appreciate.
and the others fluid also (oil, cooland)
thanks
#5
I don't like to see anything above 250F, as measured from the stock sensor (in the pan), but some people hit that on occasion while towing or four-wheeling. If you monitored converter temp, you'd hit 250 often on a working truck, but not in the pan. If you want a caution level, I'd suggest 225F. Even 250 for short periods is not going to hurt anything, but you don't want to see sustained temps that high. My trans has hit 225 a few times but it was always just a spike... but it's a spike you want to be aware of. If your trans is hot, you gear down and try to get the converter locked. The converter is the main source of heat, but it stops generating much heat once the converter clutch locks. Airflow through the cooler will then cool it quickly. The old standby was to stop and put the trans in neutral and run a high idle for a while, but I think the locked converter and lots of airflow going down the road will do it faster.
#6
trans temp
Thanks a lot, that sounds excellent parameter.
I don't like to see anything above 250F, as measured from the stock sensor (in the pan), but some people hit that on occasion while towing or four-wheeling. If you monitored converter temp, you'd hit 250 often on a working truck, but not in the pan. If you want a caution level, I'd suggest 225F. Even 250 for short periods is not going to hurt anything, but you don't want to see sustained temps that high. My trans has hit 225 a few times but it was always just a spike... but it's a spike you want to be aware of. If your trans is hot, you gear down and try to get the converter locked. The converter is the main source of heat, but it stops generating much heat once the converter clutch locks. Airflow through the cooler will then cool it quickly. The old standby was to stop and put the trans in neutral and run a high idle for a while, but I think the locked converter and lots of airflow going down the road will do it faster.
#7
I don't like to see anything above 250F, as measured from the stock sensor (in the pan), but some people hit that on occasion while towing or four-wheeling.
If you want a caution level, I'd suggest 225F. Even 250 for short periods is not going to hurt anything, but you don't want to see sustained temps that high.
If you want a caution level, I'd suggest 225F. Even 250 for short periods is not going to hurt anything, but you don't want to see sustained temps that high.
That sounds a lot more reasonable than people who say that they have temps of 130 or 160. I guess I don't ever see more than 165 when I drive 10 miles across town commuting to & from work. But any extended use, or with any kind of load in my truck bed, and it gets higher than that.
Here is what I have seen. Attempts to use an infrared laser thermometer give me temps all over the place depending on what I'm pointing it at. The temps are higher on the upper cooling line to the radiator, than they are on the lower line. I can touch those lines, feel that the upper cooling line is hot, and lower return line is cooler. Same result with the lines going to the trans-cooler. The inlet is barely luke-warm, and the outlet is cool to touch. I know that my cooling system is working and that hot fluid is being cooled before it returns to the transmission. What the temps inside the lines are, I have no idea. But I do know that my trans-cooler has a thermostat that triggers a cooling fan at 175 degrees. The fluid is never hot enough to turn the fan on by the time it reaches the sensor; despite the ScanGauge II reading around 190.
I guess I'll have to install gauges in the pan, in the cooling line, and in the return line in order to really monitor what is going on. Go crazy worrying about it. Or just relax and be okay with my car running and shifting smoothly, and just like everyone else, not know what the temperatures are.
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#8
Normal running temp, the most desirable temp and a real world working temp are all separate issues.
Ideally, the oil temp would be no more than about 160-180. Temps above that increases the oxidation rate of the oil but you can only do so much when a torque converter is crankin' up the heat when it's under a heavy load. If you have a cooler big enough to handle that, you may overcool the rest of the time, not to mention to the costs of a huge cooler that's only needed a fraction of the time.
It boils down to time-at-temp. If your trans runs consistently hot, over 200F, that's when the fluid oxidizes like mad and needs an early change if the trans is to survive. Most people don't run their trucks that hard, however. Short spurts at high temps are more normal for most of us and they take a nibble out of the life of the oil, as opposed to a competitive eater's face-stuff when it's running over 200F for long periods.
My truck has the 9-row cooler stock and that's a good compromise,IMO, being big enough but not too big, and the normal empty running temp is 145-165, depending on the season. The truck also has a Mag-Hytec pan, which adds 4 quarts of fluid and drops the pan temps 15 degrees, or so. I can measure cooler line out temp as well as from the factory sensor in the valve body (one reads off a Gryphon Programmer, the other is an Isspro gauge, which I had hooked to the pan for a while).
My contention is that a temp gauge is the most important addition. No matter what cooler you have, the gauge will tell you when you are pushing too hard and you can back off and cool off. A gauge will also give you a better idea how often you should change the fluid. If you are running hot a lot, 200F plus, maybe you need a 15 or 30K OCI on the trans fluid.
Ideally, the oil temp would be no more than about 160-180. Temps above that increases the oxidation rate of the oil but you can only do so much when a torque converter is crankin' up the heat when it's under a heavy load. If you have a cooler big enough to handle that, you may overcool the rest of the time, not to mention to the costs of a huge cooler that's only needed a fraction of the time.
It boils down to time-at-temp. If your trans runs consistently hot, over 200F, that's when the fluid oxidizes like mad and needs an early change if the trans is to survive. Most people don't run their trucks that hard, however. Short spurts at high temps are more normal for most of us and they take a nibble out of the life of the oil, as opposed to a competitive eater's face-stuff when it's running over 200F for long periods.
My truck has the 9-row cooler stock and that's a good compromise,IMO, being big enough but not too big, and the normal empty running temp is 145-165, depending on the season. The truck also has a Mag-Hytec pan, which adds 4 quarts of fluid and drops the pan temps 15 degrees, or so. I can measure cooler line out temp as well as from the factory sensor in the valve body (one reads off a Gryphon Programmer, the other is an Isspro gauge, which I had hooked to the pan for a while).
My contention is that a temp gauge is the most important addition. No matter what cooler you have, the gauge will tell you when you are pushing too hard and you can back off and cool off. A gauge will also give you a better idea how often you should change the fluid. If you are running hot a lot, 200F plus, maybe you need a 15 or 30K OCI on the trans fluid.
#9