Tranny Fluid change, few questions now.
I just recently changed my tranny fluid and filter in my truck('06 5.4L 4x4), done everything PERFECTLY by the book. step by step. although the motorcraft filter i bought didnt feel to fit properly, the orange ring round the top kept it from seating up properly into the hole. so i removed the orange ring cause the old filter did not have the orange ring when i wiggled it down. I can not recall now exactly the amount of fluid said required, but like i said we carefly followed STEP BY STEP and when finished the dip stick is ready WAY to much.
Im looking for any hints tips or helpful stuff to releif my worrying that i might.
cause i am 100% sure i did it right. but just concerned.
(p.s. as far as my employment goes, it has increased my paranio.)
i might just buy another gasket and open it up again and check that the filter stayed put and working right.
again any things y'all noticed when changing your tranny fluid in the 5.4L
Also different subject, opinions on me making a drain plug for the tranny???
Im looking for any hints tips or helpful stuff to releif my worrying that i might.
cause i am 100% sure i did it right. but just concerned.
(p.s. as far as my employment goes, it has increased my paranio.)
i might just buy another gasket and open it up again and check that the filter stayed put and working right.
again any things y'all noticed when changing your tranny fluid in the 5.4L
Also different subject, opinions on me making a drain plug for the tranny???
After you pulled the filter off the old seal probably stayed in the hole. I would pull the pan off, dig the old seal out, and install the new seal. If the old filter did not have the seal on it when you pulled it and the seal is not in the bore, it may have been drawn up towards the pump.
Did you check the fluid level with the vehicle running and in park or neutral? Without being able to drain the TC, you won't be able to get the full amount of fluid in there.
Also, don't EVER replace the factory gasket. They are lifetime re-usable and as I have said a million times, probably one of the best gaskets known to man. NASA doesn't have gaskets that good. You can bend it, twist it and beat the hell out of it then just flatten it back into shape and use it again and again and again.
And, as already stated, the old gasket stayed in the valve body. You need to go get a new filter and try again.
On the procedure to refill, add about 5-6 quarts and start the vehicle. Remove and wipe the dipstick and check the level. You probably won't find fluid yet. Add fluid a quart at a time and wipe and check the dipstick until you start to see fluid getting close to the 'full' area. Add until full.
But, be very careful to pay attention to what the real level is. So many people screw that up. The actual level is where there is fluid all around the dipstick with NO dry spots below it. There is almost always fluid that will get on the stick above the actual full mark because all of it hasn't drained down the fill tube yet. That can appear to show a false level that is way too high. It isn't rocket science, but you have to pay close attention. I have seen reputable shops mess that up by moving too quickly.
Good luck.
Darrin
Also, don't EVER replace the factory gasket. They are lifetime re-usable and as I have said a million times, probably one of the best gaskets known to man. NASA doesn't have gaskets that good. You can bend it, twist it and beat the hell out of it then just flatten it back into shape and use it again and again and again.
And, as already stated, the old gasket stayed in the valve body. You need to go get a new filter and try again.
On the procedure to refill, add about 5-6 quarts and start the vehicle. Remove and wipe the dipstick and check the level. You probably won't find fluid yet. Add fluid a quart at a time and wipe and check the dipstick until you start to see fluid getting close to the 'full' area. Add until full.
But, be very careful to pay attention to what the real level is. So many people screw that up. The actual level is where there is fluid all around the dipstick with NO dry spots below it. There is almost always fluid that will get on the stick above the actual full mark because all of it hasn't drained down the fill tube yet. That can appear to show a false level that is way too high. It isn't rocket science, but you have to pay close attention. I have seen reputable shops mess that up by moving too quickly.
Good luck.
Darrin
OK Drain plug, gunna do.
Cycle through the gears yes i did.
the orange seal from the old filter stayed in place in the tranny, did not stay on the filter. So y'all saying open it up again and put a new filter in after pulling the old seal out?
Yes, i checked the fluid level sitting cold and later after driving round a lil to warm it up both times the dip stick read good.
Just a lil worried it was my first time changeing the tranny fluid. It was very simple and easy(although a drain plug just sounds stupidly simple) just want to make sure no misstakes
Cycle through the gears yes i did.
the orange seal from the old filter stayed in place in the tranny, did not stay on the filter. So y'all saying open it up again and put a new filter in after pulling the old seal out?
Yes, i checked the fluid level sitting cold and later after driving round a lil to warm it up both times the dip stick read good.
Just a lil worried it was my first time changeing the tranny fluid. It was very simple and easy(although a drain plug just sounds stupidly simple) just want to make sure no misstakes
You can also get an aftermarket pan that is deeper capacity, has cooling fins, and a drain plug already installed. Drain plug makes for quick and easy service. However, you won't change the filter.
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I did basically the same thing, just didn't weld it... It has a hollow 'bolt' for the drain and two nuts holding it with nylon washers inside and out to prevent leakage.. So far so good and it does make it a lot cleaner on future fluid/filter changes!

Mitch

Mitch
Nice - where did you pick up that drain plug ?
Drain plug kits are everywhere.
Try this one from amazon.com:
B&M 80250 Automatic Transmission Universal Drain Plug Kit
Price: $8.62 & eligible for FREE Super Saver Shipping
Try this one from amazon.com:
B&M 80250 Automatic Transmission Universal Drain Plug Kit

Price: $8.62 & eligible for FREE Super Saver Shipping
Drain plug kits are everywhere.
Try this one from amazon.com:
B&M 80250 Automatic Transmission Universal Drain Plug Kit
Price: $8.62 & eligible for FREE Super Saver Shipping
Try this one from amazon.com:
B&M 80250 Automatic Transmission Universal Drain Plug Kit

Price: $8.62 & eligible for FREE Super Saver Shipping You can take that drain plug to any reputable welding shop and have it welded onto your pan for about $20-$25.It's alot safer then using the gasket set up!






