E4OD weak/stress points, rebuilding trans...
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From: Arizona
E4OD weak/stress points, rebuilding trans...
Truck: 1990, F250, ExCab-long box, 4x4 lifted, Engine 460cid, GVW 9000lbs
To address my concerns about the durability of this tranny I wanted to know what the "Hive Minds" says are the weak points in this trans, as in what cheapo parts are the most likely to break if I purchase stock replacements? Obviously I can spend several thousand to upgrade this trans, not my intention I just don't want to spend 3 days removing stuff to get a trans jack up under the truck to pull it out again 6 months down the road.
What would be the top 5 places to purchase a rebuild kit from? I know there are some people here who have purchased from a company or 2 that you swear by, enlighten me. Because my source closed his doors.
https://www.f150online.com/forums/me...4od-trans.html
This isn't my first rebuild of a trans, and it wont be my last. The E4OD in my 1998 F150 is dying so that's what is next, followed by TH350. I am using ASTG manual same as I used for a 4L60.
I have disassembled a 1990 E4OD transmission because of front seal rupture and excessive steel in the oil pan on the magnet. My Father caused this hauling a bed full of gravel while driving home with the E-Brake on, the oil dumping out was still boiling as it contacted the ground, when I broke the oil pan loose about 2 quarts of oil came out, gutting and cleaning yielded maybe 1 quart, the torque converter has less than 1 cup in it.
Last night I was able to pull the Reverse hub & low/reverse one way clutch assembly and bearing out, bearing and race way are scared and eaten up bad.
The band was burned and cracked, not as thick in material as I would have liked to see. The intermediate return spring - snap ring, had broken loose from its groove and the spring itself was floating. This is also attached to the intermediate overdrive cylinder assembly.
Removed the center support assembly-it appeared to be lodged inside. Frictions from here looked good as well. most of the thrust washers looked well worn
No special tools other than 2 flat screw drivers and snap ring pliers, 3 sockets and a ratchet were needed, this is the exact opposite of what it is going to take to put this back together, so I am confused why this occured.
Last night I was able to pull the Reverse hub & low/reverse one way clutch assembly and bearing out, bearing and race way are scared and eaten up bad.
The band was burned and cracked, not as thick in material as I would have liked to see. The intermediate return spring - snap ring, had broken loose from its groove and the spring itself was floating. This is also attached to the intermediate overdrive cylinder assembly.
Removed the center support assembly-it appeared to be lodged inside. Frictions from here looked good as well. most of the thrust washers looked well worn
No special tools other than 2 flat screw drivers and snap ring pliers, 3 sockets and a ratchet were needed, this is the exact opposite of what it is going to take to put this back together, so I am confused why this occured.
What would be the top 5 places to purchase a rebuild kit from? I know there are some people here who have purchased from a company or 2 that you swear by, enlighten me. Because my source closed his doors.
https://www.f150online.com/forums/me...4od-trans.html
This isn't my first rebuild of a trans, and it wont be my last. The E4OD in my 1998 F150 is dying so that's what is next, followed by TH350. I am using ASTG manual same as I used for a 4L60.
Last edited by FordsRock98; Mar 6, 2009 at 08:45 PM.
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Joined: Sep 2008
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From: BC coast
get a bearing style center support. you can use an f4tz 7a130 b, but there are cheaper aftermarket parts, pumps earlier than f5's are crap. as for the od return spring snap ring popping off. there is a spiral snap ring available from the transgo kit. most of the early e4od's popped the snap ring off, it really doesn't do any harm, on the early ones. get the plastic low sprag instead of the metal c6 one. and change all of the thrust washers to plastic. lastly, don't do cheapo on the torque convertor. get a good aftermarket heavy duty unit, with the hub welded to the turbine , not just riveted. also, i noticed your truck is a 1990. make sure you run a pressure guage on it after it's together. you want to see pressure rise as if the gauge is connected to the gas pedal, in ALL forward gears. some of the early processors didn't allow line rise in higher gears. there were some updated strategies.
Last edited by ronburgundy; Mar 5, 2009 at 11:31 AM.