Anyone know what to torque the drain plug to on the torque converter by any chance?

 

Hey D, another user wrote me this yesterday -

"The steel check ball at the end of the spring for the EPC is replaced by the poppet valve included in the kit (why they don't just say so in the directions? I guess if you're a trans mech this would be obvious). Anyway, I went with it and got it all back together this morning, runs out great. I used the diesel level for the holes in the plate and I think the shifts are excellent, not to hard but positive. Thanks for being my sounding board J!!! I wish I had time to have taken pictures, seems a lot of people on the boards could use some help with this kit."

I don't remember this part about replacing the ball, but like I said , it's been along time since I did this. Anyway, it should help you.

Shoot me your email address thru the PM box and I'll email you instructions in a "Word" doc w/torque #'s from the comp in the shop. I have that on disc and I'll be out there today.

 

E4OD/4X4 - Torque Converter Drain Plug = 24-27(Nm)--Or--18-20(Lb/Ft)


In fact here's most that you'll be dealing with in bold-

Torque Specifications Description Nm Lb/Ft Lb/In

Center Support Fluid Feed Bolt-----------11-16 8-12 —
Connector — Cooler Line to Case (Out/Front) 27-33 20-24 —
Connector — Radiator Nipple 23-31 17-23 —
Connector, Radiator-to-Tube, 5/16 O.D. 24-30 18-22 —
Connectors, Radiator-to-Tube, 3/8 O.D. 27-31 20-23 —
Cooler Tube-to-CBV, 5/16 O.D. 16-24 12-18 —
Cooler Tube-to-CBV, 3/8 O.D. 24-30 18-22 —
Auxiliary Cooler Tube,
5/16 O.D. 11-14 8-10 —
Auxiliary Cooler Tube,
3/8 O.D. 22-30 16-22 —
Control Assembly to Pump Bolts 24-31 18-23 —
Torque Converter Drain Plug 24-27 18-20 —
Flywheel Inspection Cover to Case Bolts 30-39 22-29 —
Extension Housing to Case Bolts 41-54 30-40 —
Transmission Insulator and Retainer-to-Case Bolts 81-108 60-80 —
Transmission Insulator and Retainer-to-
Crossmember Nuts 81-108 60-80 —
Vehicle Speed Sensor-to-Case Bolt 49-73 36-54 —
Flywheel to Torque Converter — Nut 30-41 22-30 —
Transmission Heat Shield to Case Nut 9-12 — 77-104
Inner Manual Valve Detent Lever Nut 41-54 30-40 —
Low/Reverse OWC Race to Case 24-34 18-25 —
Line Pressure to Case — Plug 8-16 6-12 —
Main and Lower Control Body to Case 9-11 — 80-100
Main Accumulator and Solenoid Body to Case 9-11 — 80-100
Digital Transmission Range Sensor Bolts 8-10 — 75-85
Intermediate/Overdrive Cylinder Fluid Feed Bolt 8-14 6-10 —
Transmission Pan to Case Bolts 14-16 10-12 —
Pump Body to Case Bolts 24-31 18-23 —
Parking Pawl Abutment to Case Bolts 22-27 16-20 —
Parking Rod Guide Plate to Case Bolts 22-27 16-20 —
Manual Control Valve Detent Lever Spring to Case Bolt 9-11 — 80-100
Reinforcing Plate to Case Bolts 9-11 — 80-100
Speedometer Plug to Extension Housing Bolts 4-6 — 36-54
Stator Support to Pump Body Bolts 9-11 — 80-100
Cooler Bypass Valve (Inlet)-to-Case Bolt 27-33 20-24 —
Cooler Bypass Valve (Outlet)-to-Case Bolt 33-40 25-29 —
Trans. to Engine Bolts 41-54 30-40 —
Valve Assembly — Cooler Check to Case 33-40 24.5-29.5 —
Transmission Support Crossmember-to-Frame 68-95 50-70 —
Driveshaft Bolts 88-119 65-87 —

 

Thanks! where did you find this? This isn't in the Haynes manual is it?

 

DVD out in the shop - Out here now. I don't really use those Haynes and Chilton's manuals to much. I have them and know that is all your working with , so that's why I try to refer to them. But, yea , they don't have allot of info. They have a separate transmission rebuild book that has the info - you have the engine book. The info above is from a FORD service DVD - The techs use.

 

whats Nm lbs?

 

Nm = Newton Meter/Metric

Lbs = Torque Spec - Foot pounds or inch pounds . Ft = Foot (') In = Inch (")

To convert Ft lbs. - In lbs.

Multiply Foot lbs X 12 = Inch lbs. If your Torque tool only has Inch pounds or divide if it's the other way around.

in-lb = ft-lb. × 12 EXAMPLE: 5.5 ft-lb × 12 = 66 in-lb

Metric -

in-lb = Nm × 8.851 EXAMPLE: 9 Nm × 8.851 = 79.7 in-lb

Last chance for instructions!! Okay, I'm outuhhere. Good Luck.

 

I'm just about to flush the trans cooler and lines with the seafoam and then refill it all with ATF. You just unhooked the lines from the tranny and flushed them there? You didn't bother with unhooking them directly from the cooler?

 

lol ok get this, so I put it all back together right, and I take the cooler lines loose from the tranny to flush them. Only I couldn't get my compressor to blow air through them. So I take the lines loose from the trans cooler and flush it out with no problem. Then I take the lines loose from the radiator and it turns out to be the line coming from the radiator to the tranny. So I go to take the other end if that line off of the tranny to find that where it bolts to the side of the trans there is another shorter line that runs along the trans between where the two main lines from the trans cooler connect the transmission. The bypass line or whatever it's called. So I unhook it and try to flush it but I couldn't get any air through it because it's so clogged. Now I tried blowing about 100 lbs of air through both ends and still nothing. Then I take a coat hanger and I'm able to push it through one end almost to the other, so I try from the other side, and it goes in about an inch maybe before it hits what feels like metal that is blocking it. This is on the circular end that swivels. Now I already ordered on from the dealer but this isn't some sort of valve that only opens up under certain temperatures is it? I should be able to blow air through it yes? If so, then what effect would you say that this bypass line being completely clogged would have on my transmission? Because it seems that the fluid was still circulating through the cooler via the other lines...

 

Please tell me the feed and return lines were disconected from the trans completly before you assembled it.

 

Ummm...what you talkin' 'bout Willis?!

 

Your going to need a new cooler and lines , that was your problem. Reason you disconnect the lines is so residual fluid isn't trapped anywhere (air locked)

Another reason is to prevent particles from the cooler from being reverse sucked from cooler fins into the trans while the pans off and passageways are open. That gives air and gravity another avenue to take.

Your going to have to go with it now and being that you had a serious blockage problem - you might be okay as far as leaching. I PM'ed you with more details on the E4OD. Ford does make in-line filter kits for there transmissions . It might not be a bad idea to include one in your set up.

I bet your solenoid is okay, you may have stressed the pump, but these tranny's are touch , so it's worth a shot replacing lines/cooler/filter and fluid.

Heres a pic of Fords in-line filter kit -



Your lines and cooler -

 

new lines and cooler? I flushed them all out real good individually though, I don't think I can afford to replace all those lines lol the smallest bypass line alone was like $60.00.

 

Well , if you can clear them and/or disconnect them without damaging the threads and fittings , that's another story. You can re-use them. Old lines don't always leave that option.

Good job on that inline filter , yea those are nice and easy to install !!

BTW - To anyone following this thread - The OP purchased and installed filter above in the cooler return line. It's just not posted here.

 

Still won't reverse...