I am not sure what you mean by normal lock up function, however it does engage in 3rd and 4th gear just fine as far as I can tell. The rpms don't seem to do anything erratic. It's just into 1st and out of 1st that the truck is being retarded.

 

In regards to the transmission of course.
I hope to be picking her up from the body shop today for a minor fender bender. That being said, I need to know how to pursue this issue. The tranny shop tells me it is $350 just to drop the fkr!
Can you replace just the stator clutch on the torque converter?
Do torque converters leak over time?

If you don't know what the situation is, read the first post.

I appreciate any and all helpful input.

 

It does sound like the torque converter clutch is not releasing when it should.

There are several ways that can happen. I'll list them in order of most likely to least likely:

Low trans fluid
Loose internal filter
Worn out pump
Big internal leak
Short in the wiring to the lockup solenoid
Sticking lockup solenoid
Bad torque converter

 

Fluid and Filter are good. I dropped the pan just to check and then topped her back off.
From my reading I understand the pump to some degree, but it looks considerably stout and to "wear out" I am assuming the lobes on the pump would be tremendously worn down, however I am not sure what kind of allowable tolerances there are.
Big internal leak......I was wondering if the torque converter might have some sort of leak, at low rpms there may not be enough pressure ergo the stalling out. I have found OEM replacements online anywhere from $250 to $350. Can I drop the tranny and swap her out myself is the question.
JBrew gave me some prints that show the three wiring harnesses around the transmission, however because this is a consistent and I can replicate the issue, I lean away from the short issue, but it's worth the look see I suppose.
I have heard about two things, solenoids and clutch packs. Are the Solenoids responsible for engaging the transmission where as the clutches are responsible for the gear changes? I just don't know. Am I better off biting the bullet and taking it up the *** to go to a tranny shop?
What a pisser man.
Thanks for hitting me back so quick.

 

There are four solenoids. One controls the pressure in the trans. One applies and releases the torque converter lockup clutch. The other two are used to control the clutches and bands to shift gears and engage the transmission.

You don't need a lot of wear on a pump for it to lose enough efficiency that the pressure is low. The Ford shop manual has a test procedure to see if there is a pressure problem. I'd run that test before changing parts.

 

Thanks again man. I will do some research on the pressure test. I have a Haynes manual that doesn't talk about tranny's at all. I did find some transmission specific master rebuild manuals on line for the various ford transmissions including my 4r70w.
I am guessing the local tranny shop could do the same test for me?

 

You've got a bad lockup/release solenoid.

 

If that is the case, where is it in the tranny and do I need to drop it to change it out?
I am very mechanically proficient so I am not afraid of these kinds of projects.
I am guessing that this solenoid is activated when the vehicle is placed into gear. Any guesses as to why it doesn't act up until I reach operating temperature?
Mark K recommended a pressure test which I will do. What leads you to believe it is the solenoid and have you had these issues before? Can you explain how it functions and what parameters (if any) it operates by?
Are you a mechanic by any chance?
I'm not being a **** so don't take me wrong. I always want to qualify the validity of a suggestion before I make a decision. I look forward to your reply.
Also thank you for taking the time to post! It is greatly appreciated!

 

No, the trans doesn't have to come out. The solenoid is in the pan.

That would be a bad guess. If it does active when put in gear it will lock the torque converter and the engine will stall. It is supposed to activate when the PCM commands the torque converter clutch to lock.

It's a pulse width modulated solenoid. The PCM controls it to operate the torque converter clutch. It's a very complicated algorythm, so I'm not going to try to describe the whole thing. It looks at engine temp, trans temp, vehicle speed, engine speed, and what gear the trans is in. From these the PCM decides when to lock and when to unlock the torque converter.

The torque converter should always be unlocked when the brake is on, or when the throttle pedal isn't far enough down, or when the engine or trans are cold, or when the vehicle speed is too low.

It may be a bad solenoid, but it could also be any of the other reasons I listed. It could also be a sticking valve in the valve body. This solenoid controls a valve which actually sends pressure to the torque converter clutch.

 

Thanks again Mark. I was just reading a little bit on the 4r70w and how the TCC functions and what it looks to to activate. Everything you said was right on the money. The bottom line is that I need to get it tested first and then move forward from there. Thanks again for your input. You have definitely saved me a few $$$.

 

If the truck is finished at the body shop today I will run her to a local shop recommended to me by my mechanic. The gentleman I spoke with verified what Mark suggested and in the event it was my TC coming apart then there is a likely hood that the tranny has been contaminated and at that point would recommend a rebuild. He too the time to explain to me what would be replaced (bands, solenoids, etc..). I spoke to the gentleman at this link:

https://www.f150online.com/forums/ne...te=1&p=3011283

His name was Court and he was very nice. For $979 I would get a Ford Surplus unit with a 6 year parts and labor warranty. He is located in Florida and has a 99.8% positive feedback. They have been in business for 17 years and my gut tells me it's a smart move.

Any opinions?

 

Just bumping the topic. I've the EXACT symptoms, so I'm really curious as to what steps are being taken to remedy. Thanks in advance.

 

I had the same kind of thing going on with my truck for a couple weeks. Happened every so often though, not all the time. I notice you are running a tune with 93 octane. My truck did the same thing after I loaded a level 3 edge tune and started running 91. I bumped the idle up 100 and it solved the problem, the idle in park and idle in gear are two separate idle settings and the tunes adjust the idle while you are in gear. I put my truck back on stock to get it smogged and haven't had a problem with it since. Try putting yours back to stock and see what happens. If that doesn't change anything, if you are able to, try bumping your idle up.

 

I replaced the IAC and returned the truck to a stock tune right off the bat. Unfortunately this did not rectify the problem. Additionally the canned hypertech tunes do not allow you to adjust the idle. IMO the hypertech hasn't preformed as well as I would like, how ever I never did a before and after dyno so I am not sure what gains if any I received. There is a noticeable seat of the pants difference with the 93 tune. I will keep everyone posted. I am out of town on business and will return home on the 30th. I will get her checked out a the local tranny shop on the 31st and report back. Thanks all.

 

Hey malexander52, I sent you PM. I know this thread was a few years ago, but did you ever find out what was wrong with your transmission? I have the EXACT same problems and I'm thinking it is the TCC solenoid. I unplugged the harness from the side of the transmission and was able to keep an idle.

No SEL or blinking OD light except when I unplugged the harness.