i have a 01 5.4l supercrew and it has 72k miles and to my knowledge has never had he tranny fluid changed although there is a sticker that said it was rebuilt on the tranny but that was before i bought it when it had 50k miles on it so no telling when it got rebuilt but i have started noticing it more and more and its getting worse at certain points it shudders and i think its my tranny especially at the 45-50mph range and even when it changes gears at the 40mph speed
i have a edge and not sure if thats causing it or not but i dont think so it only does it at times
i was wondering what should i do
thanks

 

I seriously doubt it's the trans . A classic low grade misfire shudder is right around 45mph after the shift into OD.

Also , if your rear end fluid is starting to break down you can get sort of the same type shudder.

Force your Misfire monitor to run , you might get a MIL .

Speed up normally to 60mph and take your foot off the gas . Without touching the brakes , let it coast down to 40mph.

Do this twice within the same drive cycle (it doesn't have to be consecutive, just within the same cycle.)

Then speed up until she shudders and keep it there . The monitor is counting your cylinder hits. Watch for a blinking light . Once it blinks - You have a fault code stored..Get it read @ Auto Zone , it's free..

 

ok thanks will have to try it and if the light comes on whats that mean
also i have noticed this more often specially when i pump gas at places that contain ethanol i think that may be why

 

I had this same problem, and found out what it was from another guy who had it happen to him and got advice from a Ford tech- the material used for the clutches in the transmissions sometimes gunks things up. Drain the fluid from the pan and the torque converter, then replace the filter and fluid and it should go away no problem. It worked for me.

If it comes back in a few months, change the fluid and filter again, and it will go away. After that it shouldnt come back ever again. Or so Im told....

 

What do you drive ? A Toyota ? What truck are you talking about - Post your model . You can't make a comparison without letting us know what your comparing to ?? Fill you info in

 

I have never seen a filterclog up completely on a transmission that still halfway worked.Small amounts of break in material is normal. I'd bet on a misfire. It wouldn't hurt to change the fluid, make sure to use MerconV.
Alan

 

how hard is it to do on my truck
also my brother in law worked for ford for i think around 5 years so do you think he would kno how to change it and is there a link that gives me directions on how to do so
thanks

 

Take the 14 bolts out of the pan, watch for fluid coming out. Remove the filter and pop a new one in. Make sure to get the seal off the old filter if it hangs up inside the trans.
Alan

 

2000 f150 4x4 with a Lighning engine and 4r100 swapped into it. dont be a ****; im just trying to help with my personal experience.

And as far as making a valid comparison, Ive heard of this problem in a '97 tbird also so it is not limited to just our trucks. Im told its a product of the clutch material used. The filter wouldnt be all cloged up, but it would hold contaminants, which is why you would change it with the fluid.

 

Don't you remember what trans you had ? I just want to know the model your referring to when posting your first comment. You said this happened to you an d another person you know - What year , what model did you have a problem with? Your info would help Cipher what your saying.. I never heard of this problem ...Did you and your buddy have the non-lightning 4R100' s that were in the 99's and later f150' s ? - Or the 4r70w's.. ???????????? You going to post some info this time - Who cares what your running now , that doesn't support your first post in this thread or the OP's problem... What if someone wanted to search out the problem you posted ?

"Don't be a ****" ? - Never mind , if your lucky , it will sink in later..

 

Do you mean there is some king of stealth code
in the stock F150 that sets codes if you enter the correct
driving parameters? Or do you need a special hookup?

Sounds like a slotmachine mechanic who programmed certain
slots to pay out when a certain sequence of coins were
entered

 

LOL - It's more like a happening Ant Colony. Even after a fresh reboot once fuel trims , air ratios , trans tables, EVAP and all adaptive strategies have found their hot spot , there is still plenty of activity going in the background .. - Sensors being called on by PCM to report and so on - One test after another. If one of these tests fail , most of the time nothing happends right away except for another test is initiated . Certain tests require more than one failure. For instance the PCM may not set MIL unless said test has failed 3 times in a row.

Some of the engine management parameters are tested thru a designated Monitor. Monitors have conditions that need to be met or they won't run.. (Example- To much slosh in the fuel tank and your Evap Monitor won't run) In this case it's the Misfire monitor we are trying kick in the a$$ get it started then find the low grade misfire rpm/load area (usually @ 45 mph after OD engagement) and hold there while monitor is awake and counting..

If the operator can hold the miss , The monitor will yield a blinking MIL in the marginal state and if the miss continues you'll get the MIL fully illuminated which pretty much indicates Primary failure ..

That's just one scenario..


Stealth Codes ? Sort of , except they can be had by anyone really.

Ford Scorpio will take you thru the procedures to quick test manually.

The Ford OBD2 site lists the main monitor procedures..


Heres a great site for trouble shooting and drive-cycle testing.. It also has a page that has the shortcut I posted earlier to start the monitor -

http://www.fordscorpio.co.uk/misfiremonitor.htm

 

....you asked what I had the problem in, so I answered: my 2000 F150 4x4 with an L motor and a 4R100.

I also told you what the other car was that had the problem: a '97 Tbird.

 

sounds to me like some one use dextron / mercon II NOT Mercon V.

Go to the parts store get a can of MERCON V convertion fluid it shoud cost you $14 for a pint! Pour it in an with in a week no more shutter. Mercon V has a beter slip stick additive for the converter clutch.

If you plan on towing with the truck after you conferm all is okay change the filter and fliud with new Mercon V the additive can boil out if used in towing and high heat.

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