i have the same problem in my f150 with a zf but my other one with the m5od is fine its kinda wierd no leakage i never have to add fluid it started when i went from the mazda to the zf at 1st i couldnt get the thing to disengage for the life of me but i finally got it bleed enough to engage, i also found my clutch pedal bushings were really worn out medal on medal and i have to weld on the braket to take the slop out once i did this it helped alot enough to drive it but when its cold and i push the pedal down i can hear the trans stop spining after about 1sec which is the way it should be but when its warm it never stops completly and i have to put it in 2nd or 4th then 1st when i come to a complete stop and rev is very dificult especially since rev in the zf is not syced it could be the slave or the pp but the pressure plate is the same i used with the mazda and it worked fine then so next time i have it out im replacing the slave with a dealer part

and to the 11in clutch post i have 11in clutches in both my f150s and they work fine the flywheels are drilled for both 10 and 11 so theres no problem there and ive found that the factory ford 11in clutches seem to last along time even with lots or abuse and towing ive yet to replace either in my trucks and they were both used clutches when i installed them with unknown milage i wish i could have that kinda luck with master and slave cylinders especiallty the slave being its a pain to replace

 

Thanks for the replies. I spoke too soon and now pretty sure my '96 already has the 11". I think the 10" were '93 and earlier(?). After considering the big picture i.e. the truck is in excellent shape without rust, has the long lasting I6, my intention of keeping it for a long time and what a PIA the job is I'm going to go ahead and replace everything in there including the flywheel. I've narrowed parts down to Perfection Clutch (Advance Auto sells these, I still need to find out where they're made) or LuK which I'm TOLD (in a email reply from ClutchCity.com) are made in US. I ran into a similar problem when I tried to get new brake rotors for this truck. It seems everywhere I went they only had Made in China. Finally, NAPA was able to order me a set Made in Canada...I figure at least that's North America;-)

 

For street use, clutch diameter really plays a very small part as compared to the overall design & materials used. I would recommend calling Clutchmasters in Colton California even for a brief consult. They have been building my clutches for 20+ years and never had any problems in a variety of (including very unusual) applications! Their prices are very competitive!

 

regardless of where luk clutches are made they are oem for ford we just bought a clutch set from ford for my buddies f150 and is was a luk also from what i understand 10in clutches were used in 1/2 ton 2wd apps where as everyrthing else 1/2 4x4 and 3/4ton and above got the 11in but they may have changed it latter to everything got 11in it makes sence to simplify things

 

Update: The Performance Clutch brand is made in China. I went to Pep Boys out of curiosity and found they sell LuK which is US made...mostly. The pressure plate and disk ARE US, the slave is Mexico, not sure about the bearings. They had to order the flywheel. Subs: thanks for the info about LuK being OEM. Apologies if I seem to be making a mountain out of a mole hill regarding this job, this is my first clutch change and I want to do it right. Sure appreciate the input!

A word of warning to shade tree'rs (like me) regarding muscling off those rusted rear crossmember transmission support bracket bolts. Be very aware of the many small, sharp sheetmetal screw tips protruding into the underside of the cab. High potential for a very nasty injury!

 

I have a 1998 F150 manual. A few months ago I was at an intersection at a complete stop, when I went to go put it into 1st gear I put the clutch in but it wouldn't let it go into gear. After frantically pumping the clutch pedal to try to get it into gear it popped into 1st very abruptly, but enough to get me through the intersection. However, I went to go keep going on the road and then it wouldn't let me get into 2nd gear. I drifted into a gas station and then towed it to my house. After the winter here I know have it on ramps to try and bleed the system first before I tear apart the trans. Are there any methods of how to bleed the system correctly?

 

I doubt bleeding will do it, you most likely have a blown slave cylinder. Very common. Pull the bellhousing dust cover and see if fluid leaks out.

Reverse bleeding works best. Get a pump-style oil can and a length of rubber hose. Fill the oil can with fluid and connect it to the bleeder screw. Open the filler cap and pump the fluid through till no more air bubbles are in the reservoir.