How do you figure? The slave doesn't touch the clutch. It touches the release bearing. That touches the diaphragm, which is inside the clutch cover. When the slave leaks, it drips down to the bottom of the bellhousing; not thru a bunch of rotating parts.

 

no, not yet, i keep meaning to, i but i never seem to have the time. lol.

 

I agree. I have had numerous leaking slaves and not once did they get the clutch wet.

JMC

 

so...fluid boiling is the concensus, on my problem?

 

I doubt it. The whole system is plastic, so there's no way you could heat the fluid enough to boil without melting the plastic first.

 

A leak at the master cylinder will never drip outside. If you have a new style slave with the rubber boot a lot of fluid can accumulate before it over flows the boot and shows up as a leak.

JMC

 

there hasnt been a change in the clutch fluid level sense i bought the truck in late april. there isnt an external of the vehicle leak, nor is there a leak in the cab. now what i can say, it the fluid level in the rez, is about brim full, so something i was wondering, and though of today, was if the fluid is gettting hot enough to start expanding (which physics teaches us that when fluids get hot, they expand) could it be putting back pressure on the system, enough to cause my problem?? or is it most likly like i originally thought, a clutch component problem, like the pressure plate getting hot and the fingers getting mushy, or the throw-out bearing binding on something when its expanding from heat?? like i said, i know its heat related, because when the truck starts there is never clutch problem, expect for the occasional time when i have to grap first before i can go into reverse for it not to grind, the problem happens only when ive been driving in heavy stop and go traffic, or driving all day, or towing a heavy load in moderate to bad traffic, but with the trailer it happens faster. so ive managed to stump everyone with this one, the only thing the ford guys can tell me is to start replacing things untill the problem goes away, or replace it all at once to save money.

 

It could be internal master or slave leakage, but have you tried bleeding the clutch? You may have air in the system.

 

i thought the very action of depressing the cluthc pedal would displace air in the system into the rez?? if that is correct than wouldnt my problem get better with driving and shifting and not create the problem??

 

Are you removing the reservoir diaphragm to check the level? It's impossible for the level to be THAT full, but it's VERY common for someone to put fluid on TOP of the diaphragm, making it APPEAR to be full when it's really empty.

.

 

Steve makes a good point. The diaphragm is in there to create a seal between the outside air and the fluid, it is vented between the diaphragm and the cap. The diaphragm flexes as the fluid level under it rises and falls. With this in mind, where is the air going to go - there is no vent to the outside! A properly bled system has *NO* air in it.

I am not saying that you DO have air in the system, but getting it bled is the first thing you should do when you have problems like this.

 

well, i had the hydrolic system bled, by the dealership, and today when i was going to do a gig, well after backing the trailer in... the same problem occured. so difference or change in how things felt, so bleeding the system didnt help anything. any other ideas??

 

An internal leak in the master cylinder wil be near impossible to detect. When your clutch starts to exibit its symptoms disconnect the slave and depress the pedal. If itstill does it the master is leaking internally.

JMC

 

Mine seems to have gone yesterday morning ...in my driveway, luckily. Symptoms as stated in previous posts. Pedal on the floor, fluid leaking from bell housing to engine joint. I plan on doing the whole clutch while I have the transmission off. Not there yet just doing planning. My question involves replacement parts sourcing. I'm hesitant to order from the on-line aftermarket discount places or local Pep Boys etc because I believe these discount parts are most likely Chinese manufacture which if at all possible I hope to avoid.
1)Does anyone know of non-China clutch kits?
2)Since I have a very steep driveway which I occasionally back a bike trailer up (I'm not real good with trailers and always end up slipping the clutch) I'm considering putting an 11" clutch in to replace the 10" the truck came stock with. Any problems I might encounter changing to the 11"?
Much thanks.

 

Rock Auto has a Centerforce 11" clutch kit for $331, that's pressure plate and disc only, an AC Delco slave/release bearing assembly is another $70. I do not know what's involved with upgrading to an 11", but if you can keep the stock flywheel, pull it and send it out to be bench ground.

I have no idea where Centerforce is manufactured but they are a respected name in the clutch business. I have a Brute Power in mine (which I *know* is Chinese) and it sucks, one of these days I'm going to go back to OEM Ford parts.

Price a full kit from Ford and see how it compares - other than the premium heavy duty stuff I think OEM is plenty good.