'05 Torque Converter Drain?

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Old Jul 29, 2006 | 06:32 PM
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'05 Torque Converter Drain?

I have an '05 F150 4.6 base model auto. trans.

I was doing my first trans. service today and when I went to drain the torque converter I cannot find the plug. I spun the converter around 2x with the rubber plug removed and there is no plug.

Is the converter not serviceable? The manual says it should take 13.9 QTS. when refilled but there is no way that much came out of the pan alone.

Seems like I am only doing half the job.

Please enlighten me on this situation, I haven't seen an auto. trans without a drain plug on the torque converter. Is there any way to drain it without paying a shop to flush?

Thanks in advance

Keith
 
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Old Jul 29, 2006 | 06:43 PM
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They stopped putting the plug in with the 02 model year. Unfortunately that means the only way to get close to all the fluid out is a flush. You also just can't disconnect the line to the radiator and let it pump out. It only goes there at a certain temp. At idle you will never reach that temp.
 
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Old Jul 29, 2006 | 07:38 PM
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Yup, your screwed on these newer ones.

Adrianspeeder
 
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Old Jul 30, 2006 | 09:33 AM
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Thanks for the quick answer guys!! I guess its just another for the manufacurers to keep you coming back for service.....

Keith
 
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Old Jul 30, 2006 | 10:05 AM
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Don't feel bad about yours. Some now don't even have a dipstick to check the fluid level and to add, you have to do it from underneath.
 
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Old Jul 30, 2006 | 10:54 AM
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Originally Posted by kingfish51
You also just can't disconnect the line to the radiator and let it pump out. It only goes there at a certain temp. At idle you will never reach that temp.
That's not true on the 4R70W or 4R75E. There is a thermostat, but it's at the cooler, not in the trans. The cooler lines ALWAYS have fluid flowing.

I've used the following method to do a fluid change myself. It works as well as the shop's method.

http://www.ford-trucks.com/article/i...nsmission.html
 
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Old Jul 30, 2006 | 05:07 PM
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Originally Posted by casey_1
That's not true on the 4R70W or 4R75E. There is a thermostat, but it's at the cooler, not in the trans. The cooler lines ALWAYS have fluid flowing.

I've used the following method to do a fluid change myself. It works as well as the shop's method.

http://www.ford-trucks.com/article/i...nsmission.html
Return from the "cooler" is from the radiator/trannie cooler. It's one circuit. It would work with the prior years, pre 04. They tried to hook up the flush machine that way when I had mine done. It didn't work. The had to hook it up at the transmission itself.
 
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Old Jul 30, 2006 | 06:51 PM
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Originally Posted by kingfish51
Don't feel bad about yours. Some now don't even have a dipstick to check the fluid level and to add, you have to do it from underneath.
You think that is bad wait until you see what the manufacturers have in store for the future. The word going around the repair industry is that in about 2 years they are going to stop having an engine oil drain plug. You will need a crankcase evacuation system to get the oil out.
 
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Old Jul 30, 2006 | 07:11 PM
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It's not really hard to put a drain plug in the converter. The drain plug should be right in the center of the access hole if you can mark it there and drill it you are good to go it's just messy as you have to drill and tap it while fluid is still coming out. I suggest and air powered drill.
Alan
 
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Old Jul 30, 2006 | 09:27 PM
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I have started a regiment that a guy at work suggested: every 10k miles use a hand pump to pump what you can out through the dipstick tube. Then refill according. This is not perfect, but keeps "new" oil in the trans and over time does replace most of the old oil. The plan is to keep this up watching the oil very carefully. If the pumped out oil looks good, then maybe never do a full drain or filter.
Any thoughts on this plan? thanks.
 
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Old Jul 30, 2006 | 10:58 PM
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Not a bad idea. Over time you will get most of the fluid changed. I would still drop the pan and change the filter at the recommended intervals though. You wouldn't want the filter to clog up and while the pan is down you can see what has settled to the bottom of the pan which can give you clues as to the overall health of the trans. For example - If you find chunks in the bottom of pan be prepared for overhaul/replacement in the near future.
 
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Old Jul 31, 2006 | 08:07 AM
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Originally Posted by GMI-Sales
I would still drop the pan and change the filter at the recommended intervals though.
What is the recommended interval to change the filter? I've never found one in any Ford publication.
 
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Old Jul 31, 2006 | 09:22 AM
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Has anybody ever experienced a transmission filter that was so clogged it caused a failure?

I'd have to imagine that there would have been a more pressing problem that would had led to that. And even a newer filter wouldn't have prevented the failure.

?????
 
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Old Jul 31, 2006 | 09:42 AM
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Originally Posted by casey_1
What is the recommended interval to change the filter? I've never found one in any Ford publication.
The dealer recomends 30,000 for a service which includes a filter change and a flush at 60,000. More often if you do heaving towing. On mine, I plan on doing the filter and fluid change every 30,000 and not doing the flush. I just dont like the idea of flushing back through the system. By changing the filter and about half the fluid every 30,000, I feel it should be well cared for.
 
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Old Jul 31, 2006 | 09:51 AM
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Originally Posted by jward
Has anybody ever experienced a transmission filter that was so clogged it caused a failure?

I'd have to imagine that there would have been a more pressing problem that would had led to that. And even a newer filter wouldn't have prevented the failure.

?????
I've never run into it but what I was getting at is that if you just pumped the fluid out through the dipstick tube and replaced without ever replacing the filter you could clog up the filter.

No a newer filter wouldn't have prevented it but if you are cleaning out the pan regularly you can check the amount of material laying in the bottom and get clues about the health of your trans. If you find an extreme amount of clutch material in the pan the transmission will need work soon. I have seen it already when you clean out the pan and the transmission fails two days later or doesn't even make it off the hoist. The suspended clutch material in the fluid was the only thing that was keeping the transmission working.
 
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