I was traveling about 70 mph, my engine shut off for a couple second(loose battery cable-fixed), when it was off teh truck lunged a little and i threw it into neutral. Ever since, it sometimes shifts hard into 2nd and does not go into OD. When i hit 40-50 mph the engine will just rev to 7-8000 with no effect on the tranny. I f i hit the OD button off, it will engage but be around 5-6000 at 45-50mph. It feels as if the tranny thinks the OD is there and engaged but it isn't, it will downshift and grab if the truck is allowed to slow.

I am not good at all with transmissions, i have read some of the posts here, something electronic possibly or torque converter?

Please Help, anything would be appreciated!!!!

 

If a CEL lite is not on you have to have a dealer scan for the trans codes.
I am 99% sure code will be set telling what doesn't work to well.
Sorry it is not eaiser.
I just went thru a deal where a simple scan was able to read a trans code but not before it rose to the level of lighting a CEL lamp first. This is not the norm.
Sounds like what has happened is rare when driving a long and all power is lost when the trans is in a normal drive state. This could have caused some type of damage to occurr unlike a non electonic control trans.
Give a report on this when you get it cleared so we can see what has happened.

 

According to Bethlehem Ford, they said there were no codes thrown in the shop or while test driving. They also said the fluid was 2 qts low and burnt. Although when checked on Sat, fluid showed on the dip stick and did NOT smell burnt at all. They recommend replacing the trans.

My next question is what is more feasable, rebuild it or replace it?

Any thoughts?????

 

Second opinion from a transmission shop: Since the engine shut down while in gear, there is a gear that tends to shear when uder a abnormal load. They felt that since the torque converter went from running to abrubt stop when the engine shut down, it sheared the gear off. Est cost $2000 for a rebuild.

 

Ron, some how I didn't notice you are from close by.
I too had a problem and without a code or drivability problem they would not do anything under warrenty even when showed metal chips from the pan.
They wanted me to pay for removal, exploratory time and labor then wait until the warrenty inspector came around and oked any repair which at the time was still unknown but for the chips.. So my decision was to go to Level 10 for a custom heavy duty rebuild and pay for a job that will stand up to towing and not have the same thing all over again in a year. I just could not afford to fool around. Had it done in 3 days what they said might take 2 weeks till all the foolishnss was over with.
The truck has towed once already and has showed the rebuild is all they said it would be. It feels really good compaired to the stock trans.

I sort of agree though that your sudden power down on a heavy amount of weight and speed might do things to the trans not antisipated if the conditions are just right.

Just thought that you might like to know that they shut down the Rte 611/412 location and jerked all those people out of a job without notice and even sent the Beth. people down to finish the work with some vehichles still left on the lifts when techs and all others were told to leave shortly after they came to work.

If you ever see a red 02 Screw with Level 10 logo on the fenders and tail gate, happy to at least say hello and tell you a bit about what we do..
Good luck.

 

Sounds like your truck's computer needs to be reset since this happened when your battery cable popped loose.

To do this, disconnect your negative battery terminal, and turn your headlight switch on and let it sit for 15 minutes. This drains any residual memory from your trucks ecu (computer).

After 15 minutes, turn off your headlight switch and reconnect your negative battery terminal. Then turn your ignition to the "on" position, but do not start it. All of your instrument gauges should sweep fully to the right, then back to their original positions.

This indicates that your truck's computer has been reset, and all sensors have been recalibrated.

Try that before you take it to any shops or dealers.

 

Well as it turns out, my sprag was cracked in 2 places and sprag bent the housing. My clutches were all burnt and worn to nothing, they said it was a driveability issue that caused it to fail. Though the heaviest towing I have ever done is a 16ft boat occasionally. They also stated the pump in the rear was burnt also. $2014 repair bill (OUCH) which was a rebuild/overhaul. Everything is going great now, picked it up earlier today. Now hopefully I wont need to use the 12 month/12000 warranty!!!

Thanks for the input and thoughts given.

Ron

 

Cool! Except that there is only a front pump, not a rear pump.