Fluid Change or Flush?
expy03!
Sorry for the late reply! Been busy making a new intake for the Procharger. No,
unfortunately, I won't be out until April, when my snowbirds fly north! Wish I was though.
Originally Posted by expy03
Hey desperado,
You out cruisin last week? I went through Havusu on Monday and Thursday. I'm pretty sure I saw your truck.
Nice .
You out cruisin last week? I went through Havusu on Monday and Thursday. I'm pretty sure I saw your truck.
Nice .
unfortunately, I won't be out until April, when my snowbirds fly north! Wish I was though.
So getting back to the origional question "flush or change" (I'm trying not to make a smartass joke)
I just had an interesting conversation with a trans mechanic who had some very bad things to say about "power flushing" Draining, using the trucks own power to pump fluid is "ok" but the forcing of fluid and debris can cause seals to fail, debris to plug passages, not to mention the harsh chemicals that are used to disolve crud in the system. (not good for clutch/band surfaces) He could tell by looking at a disassembled trans if it had been power flushed. he also stated many of his customers with bad trannies had recently had this service perfomed on their cars.
(I know, I know, many people with bad trannies think they can change the fluid and make things better, often with results just the opposite) I know there may be differing opinions on this subject but after talking with this guy for 15 minutes I don't think I'll be getting the "power flush" on my truck.
jmtc
I just had an interesting conversation with a trans mechanic who had some very bad things to say about "power flushing" Draining, using the trucks own power to pump fluid is "ok" but the forcing of fluid and debris can cause seals to fail, debris to plug passages, not to mention the harsh chemicals that are used to disolve crud in the system. (not good for clutch/band surfaces) He could tell by looking at a disassembled trans if it had been power flushed. he also stated many of his customers with bad trannies had recently had this service perfomed on their cars.(I know, I know, many people with bad trannies think they can change the fluid and make things better, often with results just the opposite) I know there may be differing opinions on this subject but after talking with this guy for 15 minutes I don't think I'll be getting the "power flush" on my truck.
jmtc
Here's what I did. Had the pan dropped and filter replaced and 5 quarts of new fluid added at the dealer ($80). Every oil change I suck out and replace 4 quarts through the dipstick. I use Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF (now Mercon V compliant) since I'm buying 4 quarts every 6 months I don't mind spending a few extra bucks. Fluid stays nice and pink.
drain the torque converter?
Originally Posted by BLUE20004X4
Oh no man, change the filter, but not the pan gasket. I personally would change pans, using the ford gasket again, changing to the one with a drain plug. Regardless, you have to drop the pan to change the filter, but getting the old fluid out first as easy as possible, that's why I went to a drain plug. The filter should be less than 30 bucks too. Remember to drain the torque converter as well. I'm assuming you know how to check and do all the other stuff, but basically it's easy enough to do yourself and change the filter, not the pan gasket.
Yup, even in the lines going to the rad etc. Your going to get most by the converter and dropping the pan, but the little bit remaining won't harm nothing. You figure, most people don't know to change the tranny fluid period let alone all of it at the right intervals.
Locating the converter plug is easy, just spin the engine slow with a johnson bar/ socket to the crank pulley bolt and rotate slow. I've always done it with a ignition bypass switch that you hook up inline and slowly tap it on the cement until I'm there at the plug. I do it just cuz I have the tool, otherwise do it the other way. Also, there will be a bit of fluid in there so be prepared.
Locating the converter plug is easy, just spin the engine slow with a johnson bar/ socket to the crank pulley bolt and rotate slow. I've always done it with a ignition bypass switch that you hook up inline and slowly tap it on the cement until I'm there at the plug. I do it just cuz I have the tool, otherwise do it the other way. Also, there will be a bit of fluid in there so be prepared.
I installed the factory tech separator plate last weekend and thought it would be a good time to do a fluid change. I had 12 quarts for the pan and torque converter drain. I could not get the plug out of the torque converter. It appears to be seized and I did not want to snap it off as that would have been bad.
I let the transmission drain for about an hour and was able to get 10 quarts out. That is close to a full exchange. 10 out of 12 quarts is plenty.
I never thought much for power flushes.
About the filter; I have seen the rubber seal on these filters get good and hard. That can cause seal failure that will be followed closely by transmission failure since the transmission uses the filter as a pick up tube. I always replace the filter with a Ford filter.
Have fun.
I let the transmission drain for about an hour and was able to get 10 quarts out. That is close to a full exchange. 10 out of 12 quarts is plenty.
I never thought much for power flushes.
About the filter; I have seen the rubber seal on these filters get good and hard. That can cause seal failure that will be followed closely by transmission failure since the transmission uses the filter as a pick up tube. I always replace the filter with a Ford filter.
Have fun.
My experiences:
1982 F250---flushed tranny as part of regular service (thought I was doing good) at 150k miles = 2 months later tranny is toast.
1999 Dodge Dakota R/T---flushed tranny at 33k miles as part of regular service = 46k miles tranny is toast
current 2002 F150 Screw 4x4---flushed tranny because it seemed like it was slipping a bit = 2 weeks later tranny is toast
You'd think I would have learned my lesson earlier!
Just change the fluid and filter, but NO flush!
1982 F250---flushed tranny as part of regular service (thought I was doing good) at 150k miles = 2 months later tranny is toast.
1999 Dodge Dakota R/T---flushed tranny at 33k miles as part of regular service = 46k miles tranny is toast
current 2002 F150 Screw 4x4---flushed tranny because it seemed like it was slipping a bit = 2 weeks later tranny is toast
You'd think I would have learned my lesson earlier!
Just change the fluid and filter, but NO flush!
Last edited by StngStr; Apr 17, 2006 at 03:09 PM.
Since your going as far as dropping the pan change the filter. It's cheap and easy. A flush is just that, crap going down a drain, sometimes plugging along the way, we've all had thoooose days. I've never even considered a flush because the filter was to be replaced regardless.
Originally Posted by StngStr
current 2002 F150 Screw 4x4---flushed tranny because it seemed like it was slipping a bit = 2 weeks later tranny is toast
One thing to keep in mind if you are doing a tranny fluid and filter change for the first time on a HIGH MILE transmission thats never had it done before is that you must do it twice!!
The reasoning is that after the first time you do it pressure and flow is much higher thruout the tranny and that will break free metal dust and particles and recirculate it thruout the system causing accellerated wear.
Also, whenever doing a fluid/filter change, be super clean, taking great care to wipe out the pan and ensure no lint is left in it either.
Torque the pan in steps, in a criss cross pattern and torque to spec with an inch LB torque wrench. Hope this helps. And screw the flush- Do it right with the filter change.
The reasoning is that after the first time you do it pressure and flow is much higher thruout the tranny and that will break free metal dust and particles and recirculate it thruout the system causing accellerated wear.
Also, whenever doing a fluid/filter change, be super clean, taking great care to wipe out the pan and ensure no lint is left in it either.
Torque the pan in steps, in a criss cross pattern and torque to spec with an inch LB torque wrench. Hope this helps. And screw the flush- Do it right with the filter change.
Transmission flushes push junk into places it doesn't belong such has the cooler or valvebody. A fluid exchange machine that uses the vehicle's transmission pump to circulate new fluid in and old fluid out is OK. Just make sure the filter gets changed, many "Quickie Lube" joints don't or don't like to do this (its above their level of competence). Had an exchange on a 5 speed auto Ranger years ago. In went 14 quarts of Castrol Mercon V in about 45 minutes. Nothing wrong with old school service, drop the pan clean the pan, change the filter refill the system. Never got anyone in trouble. Local Ford dealer charges $90 for this service. Motorcraft filter kit is $40 and 5 quarts of Motorcraft fluid is $20 so labor charge is about $30. They do offer flushes and flushes with a filter change as well. Both are almost $200.
Fluid Change
I just changed my fluid and filter and did not know I could drain the torque converter.I have 150,000 miles on the truck, and the new filter change has about 100 miles. can I REPLACE THE FLUID AGAIN, THIS TIME DRAING THE CONVERTER AND REPLACING EVERYTHING WITH A SYNTHETIC OIL AND REUSE THE FILTER?


