I've read as much as I can in the archives and have seen many similar posts but not on my model/year, or that had pictures which are no longer accessible.

I have a '98 F-150 XLT 4x2 with factory tow package (4R70W). It's currently got 84K miles on it. I'm considering adding an Autometer electric tranny temp gage in an Autometer single pillar pod, tapping into the cooler line with an Autometer manifold.

Does anyone have any experience doing this on a similar truck, especially with pictures of the correct line to tap, where to mount the manifold, best routing for the wiring up to the pillar, etc.?

Also, I already own a good (not a cheapie) OBDII scanner (Actron CP9145). Does anyone happen to know if I can use this for occasional checks of trans. fluid temp?

Thanks very much!

Mike

 

Take a look at the 'trans temp' thread.
A scanner does not normally measure temp from an outside sensor.
Installing an electric gauge requires a single lead from the sensor to the gauge.
Power from a lead that is hot when the ignition is in run position and a nite light dash feed are needed to the gauge.
Sorry it's not real easy to do but you only do it once.
I have both an electric oil pressure and the trans gauge on a panel along with a trailer brake controller mounted in the middle of the lower dash apron.
Took some engineering to accomplish but all turned out good, easy to see at all times and reach the controller for manuel control when needed.

 

When I did my gauges, I used a fitting kit for a trans cooler and about a foot of trans rubber line to make a small loop with a T in it at the top radiator connector for the trans fluid cooling. I went that route so there was no cutting the hard lines or the stock rubber section. I figure if something happens along the road, a crescent wrench and it all goes back stock in a matter of a couple minutes. Lot easier than cutting the lines and fitting in a manifold IMHO.

I didn't go the A pilar route. I built a cluster that sits on the trans hump next to the 4wd shifter. As soon as I get it apolstered, I put up a pic of it all together. It works great there. Easy to see as glancing at the radio.

Good luck.

 

OK, I've decided on the meter, the pod, the paint for the pod, etc. Can anyone explain the best way to route and conceal the wiring from the gauge to the tranny (especially through the dash area)?

Can anyone be more specific as to where the "test port" is on the 4R70W? I'm looking for the highest fluid temps; is the test port the best place to read it, or would I be better off tapping a manifold into the line to the cooler? If so, is that a 3/8" line or 5/16"?

Sorry for all the questions, I'm hoping I can do this job without 15 false starts. Thanks.

Oh, and WVTrucker, I thought of using the hump also - probably a lot less work - but I'm using the hump for other stuff, so I can't really do that. But thanks!

 

For wiring up the pod, you can drill a hole in the existing A piller cover where you plan on mounting the pod (so you won't see the wires). The wires will then route thru the hole and down the A piller under the dash. From there, you route accordingly. In my case, I found it easier with less hassle and ran the wires out the bottom of the pod and down the side of the dash. I covered the wires with about 18" of that flexable black wire conduit like the rest of the wires under the hood has.... Sure, you can see about 3" of it thru the window, but it's neat and clean and I didn't have to mess with the stock cover.

Just above the brake pedal, you should see a rather large rubber gromet on the firewall. This is where I routed the wires going under the hood. I covered those wires with the flexable cover too, so it all looks stock.

I have a Water temp gauge in addition to the Trans temp one so that made routing it under the hood pretty simple. I tapped into the stock rubber hose section of the trans output line that goes to the top of the rad. I also used some extra hose to make a loop to keep the mounting points of the lines in alignment. I carry a hose splice gizmo thingy that I could replace the T with if something were to happen to it... But, after 4 years, it's been fine!

Remember to run a separate gound wire to the T if you splice into the rubber hose part!

Good luck!

Mitch

 

Yup. First time I installed a water temp guage on my SE-R, I couldn't figure out why it wouldn't work...

 

The top picture shows the T If you look you'll see a hose clamp that I put around the T to hold the ground wire. It works well, just make sure it's solid. Give it a little tug to make sure you iddn't get it too tight and cut the wire off if you do that.

The guage was done with a hole saw that was slightly smaller than the guage housing. I would recommend the pod though, it's easier.

Edit: oh and one other thing, if you use the brass T put teflon tape on all the threads. It'll make life a whole lot simpler in the end.

 

Wow, you guys are tops. Thanks SO much for the info and for the pictures! Also, confirming that the the hose going to the UPPER radiator fitting is the output from the tranny? I have the factory aux. cooler as well - the hose going to the upper radiator hole is still the best place to tap in? Finally, if you've pulled the pillar trim piece off, are there any tricks to getting it off without breaking anything, or do you just grab it in the middle and pull? On the pillar pod itself, how does it attach to the pillar trim?

Viper, I've got a couple of questions on your installation:

- Do you happen to remember the I.D. on that cooler line hose?

- On the ground wire, why couldn't I just crimp a spade lug onto the end of the wire, and slip that under the head of the hose clamp before tightening it? That way I'd have the solidity of the hose clamp attachment, without worrying about the edges of the clamp breaking the wire over time (if I understood your concern on that).

- Finally, does the sender extend far enough into the T that it's sensing the fluid temp, or is it held out of the fluid flow by the reducer fitting, etc., so that it's getting more of a measurement of the T's temperature (which is probably a few degrees cooler than the fluid)? Since I haven't seen one of the senders up close, I'm not familiar with how long the sensor portion of it is.

Thanks again, guys. I truly appreciate it.

 

On mine the sender is probably not clear down in the fluid flow. The brass is a pretty good thermal conductor so I doubt the temp is off that much. The temp sonsor assebmly on the fan for the Aux cooler is built the same way (it's alluminum).

I don't remember any id codes. I believe the fittings for the cooler were AN6, and the hose was a 3/8" hose.

As far as the ground, any method that'll make contact on the ground side of the sensor would work. Thinking about it ther may have been a way to back off the lower nut and fit a horseshoe connector in there. I might have to look at that sometime. The way I did it is pretty secure, I just had to make sure that it didn't get pinched wrong. I have a feeling I dorked out and could have put it in like previously described. There were no instructions on mine that stated how to do it.

The hose going to the TOP of the radiator is the output from the tranny. That's the line I used for the sensor.

I believe the pillar pod mounts in the location of the grab handle. Meaning, it replaces the handle. Therefore all you need is to route the wires and use the handle screws to mount the pod for the guage(s). I wouldn't advise mounting the gauge like I did simply because it's hard to judge where all the dash framework fits behind the moulding around the steering column. I should have made the hole a little further to the left, but I managed to force it down in there. The one side of the guage is up against the internal framework and I had to bow the cover piece to get the guage over a slight bit. Fortunately the clips still were close enough they snapped into place.

 

Thanks again, Viper. My truck's a '98 so I don't have the grab handle on the driver's side, otherwise I would've thought to use those screws. You've got a great looking installation there.

 

I put mine in the hole for the 4x4 switch works great but i would use\used a copper based thread sealing cowpound instead of teflon tape (it conducts electricy for the ground)...

 

I do the same thing as Viper where I hose clamp a ground wire to it. Works great that way.

 

BTW, I would use teflon paste or RTV. Make sure the teflon is the higher temperature variety. Teflon tape can block the fitting.

 

That's where I installed my electric sender. If I remember, it's on the driver side of the tranny and looks like a 3/8" or so bolt. I can look later if need be, but my wife has the truck right now.

 

if you want an accurate reading, I would recommend drilling a small hole in the pan and welding a bung on the inside. I tried using a tee and going off the cooler lines, but never got an accurate reading.