changing the clutch.. is it hard?
changing the clutch.. is it hard?
hey, first timer here
. i have a 1986 f150 4x4 with the straight six 5 speed manual. i was wondering how hard it would be to swop out the clutch? or the easiest way to get the t-case off. thanks
. i have a 1986 f150 4x4 with the straight six 5 speed manual. i was wondering how hard it would be to swop out the clutch? or the easiest way to get the t-case off. thanks
Nothing to it
I have a 92, 150 2wd, I6 and T-18 trans. I changed the clutch, press plate, throw out and pilot bearing last weekend.
It was getting really hard to shift, especially low and reverse. The culprit was actually the Throw out bearing. When I disassembled, it came to me in two pieces. The pressure plate release springs were also very worn. 118K city miles on the OEM clutch.
The HAYNES repair manual is good to have, it has all the torque specs that you'll need.
If your's is like mine, you'll need a combination of metric and standard tools. I had to buy an 18mm deep socket to get the cross member off. They have thread lock on them, so they'll fight you to the end, all twelve of them.
I suggest you change the Pilot Bearing. Getting the old one out is easy.
One of two ways, get the puller tool, or pack it tight with grease so there is no air behind it. Find either a socket or anything that fits snuggly in the bearing and punch it out. Use a good three pound hammer, none of this girl stuff. It'll come right out after a few hits.
Put the new one in the freezer for 15- 20 minutes to reduce it's diameter.
Use the old bearing to punch the new one in. When you take it out of the freezer, work quickly. When it starts warming up, things get tight.
Make sure the clutch disk is lined up perfectly before torqing the pressure plate. If it's off even a little, you'll have trouble getting the input shaft back in
Make sure the trans. is in gear when you try to line it up so you can move the splines with the output shaft.
I've never done a 4X4, but by all means, be carefull. You can probably get it apart by yourself, but a make sure you have help with the install.
You should have an accees plate in the bottom of the cab. Pull the interior carpet up and take it out. The extra room will help.
Let me know how it goes
Shawn
It was getting really hard to shift, especially low and reverse. The culprit was actually the Throw out bearing. When I disassembled, it came to me in two pieces. The pressure plate release springs were also very worn. 118K city miles on the OEM clutch.
The HAYNES repair manual is good to have, it has all the torque specs that you'll need.
If your's is like mine, you'll need a combination of metric and standard tools. I had to buy an 18mm deep socket to get the cross member off. They have thread lock on them, so they'll fight you to the end, all twelve of them.
I suggest you change the Pilot Bearing. Getting the old one out is easy.
One of two ways, get the puller tool, or pack it tight with grease so there is no air behind it. Find either a socket or anything that fits snuggly in the bearing and punch it out. Use a good three pound hammer, none of this girl stuff. It'll come right out after a few hits.
Put the new one in the freezer for 15- 20 minutes to reduce it's diameter.
Use the old bearing to punch the new one in. When you take it out of the freezer, work quickly. When it starts warming up, things get tight.
Make sure the clutch disk is lined up perfectly before torqing the pressure plate. If it's off even a little, you'll have trouble getting the input shaft back in
Make sure the trans. is in gear when you try to line it up so you can move the splines with the output shaft.
I've never done a 4X4, but by all means, be carefull. You can probably get it apart by yourself, but a make sure you have help with the install.
You should have an accees plate in the bottom of the cab. Pull the interior carpet up and take it out. The extra room will help.
Let me know how it goes
Shawn
When I replaced the clutch in an '85 with in-line six and a four speed instead of pulling the transmission and transfer case I moved the engine forward. I removed the hood hooked a hoist to the engine, loosened the mounts and bell housing bolts and moved the engine as far forward as possible. It was a little tight but it beat pulling the transfer case and trans.
thanks
thanks, bearing will be no problem.. i've done a couple rear ends and changed a lot of chaincase seals on sleds, same trick.. freeze em an get em in there.. maybe its just the throw out bearing that went out. i can shift through 1st-4th, reverse, 2hi 4hi 4lo and not move at all.? the truck has seen a rough 75k miles on a dirt road. it was also rolled a while back. but anyway thanks guys i'll be busy with it later on


