OK guys, I'm done. Took me about an hour to move the temp probe on the trans gauge from the line over to my oil temp gauge location. That one has been working flawlessly since day one. We'll see what happens over the next couple of days....

NOW, if it continues to stick, we know for sure it's the gauge BUT,if the gauge works like it should (and I'm asking this ahead of time) what does that mean about the transmission??? Because if the gauge works then that, without a doubt, means that I do not have continuous flow of fluid in my cooler lines, Right?? Then why does the thing run so good?? Stay tuned to this bat channel...

B-Man, (and everyone else) The gauge didn't work on the way home again today but while I had it out for the swap over I boiled a pot of water and ran out there with the pot and stuck the probe in it...gauge worked like a champ????

 

I don't know about the 4R70W, but the 4R100 does have a coolant bypass valve that diverts fluid fromt he converter out straight to the rear lube in without going to the radiator until the fluid gets up to temp. I don't think the 4R70W has this, but Mark K would know for sure.

G

 

I believe that's what I read from an earlier Mark K. Post. The 4R70W functions the same as the 4R100 in that regards.

John

 

Galaxy -

I was thinking about this, and I wonder if my tranny behaves differently because I live in Florida and maybe my tranny doesn't get cold enough to activate that bypass feature the others are talking about ??

When I installed the tranny filter & cooler, it was 70* or higher.

Guess that opens another question: At what temperature does this bypass activate ??

Oh well, someone smarter than me will probably tell us !!

sscully, jefflaws, Mark K ????

 

On a 4R100 the cooler frees flow at 125 degrees, and your converter will not lock up until the fluid gts to 90 degrees, ot the other way around, I get them confused. The converter lockup disable is not realted to it though, it's controlled by the transmission oil temperture sensor on the solenoid body.

G

 

***UPDATE***UPDATE***UPDATE

Well, I just confirmed it is the gauge. Yesterday I went and swapped the temp probe to another fluid (replaced with my oil temp gauge) and whatdaya know, first day's drive resulted in the same symptoms with the gauge...She's a stickin.

Now I guess it's back to the battlefield with Autometer. If anyone remembers, this is gauge number three from them with the same symptoms. At first I found it hard to believe I would actually receive three bad gauges in a row and all three with the same symptoms at that, but it's true. My gauge is a custom made gauge and not an "off the shelf" item so there has got to be a breakdown in the process somewhere when they did my gauge.

I got back in touch with them when this one started acting up and they politely and politically told me sorry, but F%$* Off. I want to see how it goes when I go back to them with an educated and supported response???

Thanks to everyone who has been tracking this and helping out with ideas. I'll let you all know what happens. I just hope I'm not stuck with a $130 gauge that doesn't work

 

The 4R70W does not have a cooler bypass. It always flows fluid to the cooler.

 

Galaxy -

Would you mind if I asked which Auto Meter gauge you are using? I just bought 2 (water and tranny temp) and am wondering if I'm gonna have the same issues you are...

Thanks !!

 

My trans temp gauge is NOT an "off the shelf item". I wanted the Carbon Fiber 2 1/16" gauges with oil temp and trans temp. When I went shopping, they had the oil temp gauge but no trans temp gauge. I called them up and said "Hey, I want a 2 1/16", Carbon Fiber, 120*-240* scale, mechanical, TRANS temp gauge, with an 8' lead". (most temp gauges come with 6') They said "OK, for $130". I said "I'll take it".

I think there is a breakdown in the manufacturing of my particular gauge somewhere and like I said before I am on my third gauge with this same problem. No, I didn't buy all three. They replaced them. But now they are telling me they can't justify doing it again because they have never seen or heard of this problem. I have never seen or heard of this problem either with an "off the shelf" item. That's why I think it's got to have something to do with building MY gauge. This is the first time I have gone to this much trouble to prove it's the gauge and not my truck or the installation. I have presented this info to them so now I'm waiting till Monday to see what they come back with. They have offered to refund me my full amount no questions asked but then what do I do? They have an electrical Carbon Fiber TRANS temp gauge but I like the look of the face on the mechanical gauges better. That's why I paid for this one. I for sure don't want one electrical and one mechanical. That wouldn't match. Guess I could swap out my oil temp gauge for an electrical one just so they would both match. We'll see.

My situation is definately unique and not indicative of Autometer Products. Very awesome gauges.

Here's a question if anyone knows...Is the temp sending unit on an electrical gauge the same size/thread design as the nut above the temp probe on a mechanical gauge??

 

Well, they said NO! They would not replace it. They are still offering me a complete refund. Guess I'll take it and get an electrical one. The only reason I don't want that is because it wont match the face of my mechanical oil temp gauge it's right beside. Guess I'll get used to it. I am going to request that when I send it back that they at least owe it to me to inspect the gauge and see if they find anything and let me know the outcome. What do you guys think??

How do you think it will look with one mechanical gauge face and one electrical gauge face??

 

Summit Racing has a Carbon Fiber faced electric trans temp gauge. Part Number ATM-4757. It's only a 90* sweep, but I think that's all you can get in electric. It also looks like it's on "Back Order" too, but you should still be able to order it.

My electric gauges came with two adapter plugs and the sender itself for basically three different size threads. I think they were 5/8, 3/8 and 1/4........

Good luck!

 

I'm not worried about getting one. My concern is what do you think it will look like sitting right beside a mechanical gauge with a full sweep face?? (Opinion)

 

You might lose some points if you enter it in a show!

That is, if anybody even notices..... I'd say as long as it the gauge itself resembles the other (Carbon Fiber backing, same type and style of lettering), the face sweep should not detract much at all.

IMO, "function" is more important than "form" in the case of wanting to know what the temp of what something is in the first place! Sure, you want it to look good too. Not like some hack job a Cheby owner would do....

With the electric, you just have to make sure you get a good ground on the sending unit where ever you put it.

Hope you have better luck with this one. Can't explain why you had three gauges in a row with the same issue...... Maybe the longer tubing for the mechanical sender?????

Good Luck!

 

Well, got my electrical temp gauge today. Ended up getting the 100-250 electrical TRANS temp gauge since it was my ONLY option. Oh well, doesn't look too bad I guess. I'll put pictures up later. (Have one full sweep mechanical and this electrical in my pillar now)

Anyways, do I connect the 12V connection that has 12V anytime the switch is on? Doesn't have to be connected to anything specific does it??

Also want to know if you can do this...I'm getting a rear end cover that has a port for a temp sender so I was thinking about getting a second sender and installing it along with a switch to tap into this gauge. That way I could read both fluids with one gauge at the flip of a switch. That seems like it should work. I am only doing this for the hell of it since the cover has a port anyways.

 

Galaxy -

I would connect the +12 lead of the gauges to a ignition switched source. That way, when the key is off, so are the gauges.

If you plan on switching the signal leads from 2 different sending units to one gauge, be sure that both sending units are grounded identically. I would be willing to bet that the rear end ground is at a different electrical potential than rest of the truck. Unless, of course, they have one of those copper braided ground leads connecting it to the frame.

Any difference in potential will cause inaccurate readings on the gauge.