After installing my TransGo shift kit, and losing 3rd gear, I took it to a shop, and they said that it needs to be rebuilt, they want to charge me $1450 + tax. I can drop an install a new transmission, so should I just buy a trans for level ten or PA, are they any other companies that make a good 4R70W?

 

Beastie,

Sorry to hear that!! PA and Lentech make good ones but at about a grand more than your qoute!!

Jasper makes a replacement that has a 3 year 36k warranty.

www.jasperengines.com about $1,800

John

 

beastie -

Did you try to find a shop that is familiar with 4R70W upgrades ? I can't believe the TransGo isn't the problem. Someone who is experienced with them could probably isolate the issue very easily, and for less money than you are now talking about.

Just a thought. Seems like if you put it back the way it was, it should be fine...

Just my $.02...

B-Man

 

HI!... BEASTIE : I doubt very much that the TRANSGO shift kit caused your 4R70-W to fail. Remember that you should NEVER install a shift kit on a older high milage tranny. Yours is going on 8 years old. My tranny builder builds bullet proof 4R70-W's I got mine built for $1400(CAN) and he took it out and re-installed it in my truck. That was also including a heavy duty stock TQ converter. Then I got a RACE/DUTY 2400 stall converter built for $800(CAN) and installed it myself. That $1400(CAN) is only like $900(U.S). If you want E-MAIL me and I can give you his #. Shipping charges would be more though.

 

Thanks for the info, this guy knows he 4R70W though, and he builds all the trannys for the Mustangs in my area. I post more later, I have to goto work.

 

I got a question for you Neal, with a 2400RPM stall converter, does that mean that anytime you try to just take off your engine has to rev up to 2400rpms before it will even move? How does it affect your daily driver if you have a 2400 rpm one, I was thinking about getting a b&m one when I do the rebuild, but I am unsure of how it would affect my daily driving.

 

HI!... BEASTIE : I would stay away from the B&M and HURST TQ converters. They are usually no where close to there advertised stall. As for my 2400 stall. It feels a lot like the stock one until you punch it. Then it will flash to 2400RPM and your GONE!!!!!!!!!p.s so are your tires

 

So when you are at a light, and you punch it, it will rev up to 2400 rpms and then take off, is there any kind of delay while it revs like that? Thanks for the info on the B&M, do you know of any good ones other than the one you have? And will addign a 2400 stall converter lower your 1/4 mile times any?

I also read that for you to use the converter for what it is, you have ot hold the brakes and revs the engine up to 2400 rpms, kinda like powerbraking, but the TQ wont engage.
Are you saying that from a dead stop, if you mash the gas, it will rev up to 2400 rpms then take off? Or do you have to brake it up to 2400 like I said above? Thanks for the help Neal.

 

HI!... BEASTIE : Actually on my truck if I was sitting at a light and just punched it, I wouldn't go anywhere!LOL! My current set-up if I punched it, I would hit my 5900rpm rev limiter in 1 second flat. I would just sit there for a second and spin like crazy, go through 1ST gear, hit 2ND gear and just keep on spinning. Slicks are a MUST when going to the track. What a higher stall does is to get the engine into it's powerband quicker. Most 2400 stalls reduce F-150's 1/4 mile times from 2-3 tenths and in some cases as much as half a second.

 

So you dont have to do any of that braking stuff? And if I put a 2400 stall converter, all I would have to do is punch it off the line and it would take off?

 

DELETE::::::

 

Sorry, but no, it doesn't.

There is no clutch that is slipping. The torque converter slips, not a clutch. When there is a large difference in RPM between the input and output of the torque converter there is more torque going out of the torque converter than went in. It's called torque multiplication.

When the RPM is high enough and the transmission is in the right gear many torque converters have a clutch that will lock to eliminate slip.

This is a very basic description. If you REALLY want to understand how an automatic transmission and torque converter work go to www.howstuffworks.com and read their excellent articles.

 

I'm wrong....thought I understood.....I retract my post....its fubar....


thanks,
back to school,
mike