Looking for a little help. Just got a "new" to me Jeep and I'm checking into what it would take to flat tow it behind my SCrew. It's 93 YJ Saraha, weighs about 3,500#'s - not a problem for the truck.

My questions are for the Jeep (stock running gear). I have an automatic, so I understand I need to "do something" other than stick it in neutral. Remove the driveshaft? both front and rear?

How about tow bars for Jeeps? anyone have a suggestion or what to avoid?

Thx.

 

I think you leave the gear shifter in "P" (Park) and put the transfer case in "N" (neutral). That's because you don't want your tranny turning without the motor running. Something to do with how the fluid circulates (it won't, if the motor is not running).

You should verify that with Jeep, but I'm sure that's pretty universal.

 

for a tow bar, I picked one up from JC Whitney for under a $100. Also check some of the Jeep sites. Lot of good info on www.pirate4x4.com

 

mitch/dee
Thx for the input. I'm not sure on the transmission....I know you don't want to have it turning without the engine running. I thought that's why everyone says to pull the driveshaft(s)? Kind of a pain, but I don't want to tear it up.....

Anyone else have an idea?

 

Tcase in neutral
tranny in neutral

Do not remove your rear driveshaft because you have a slip yoke rear output on the tcase, which means that the driveshaft slips in and out of the tcase, when driving, the only thing holding the driveshaft in is that it is held in by the rear axle being connected. if you remove your rear driveshaft you will have a big hole in the end of your tcase which will leak fluid and might collect dirt and grime. You can disconnect your front driveshaft if you want but you will have to take it off at both the axle and the tcase. you do not have manual locking hubs so you will be spinning your bearings and ring and pinion anyway. by removeing the front you will save on wear with the driveshaft u-joint and the bearings in the front output of tcase. but since it takes about 20 minutes to remove and 20 minutes to reinstall i would run it and if you do have premature u-joint failure you will still me ahead on time since it only takes about 15 minutes to change the 2 u-joints on the driveshaft.

you need to keep the key in the ignition anyway to keep your steering wheel unlocked so at the same time you can keep the tranny in neutral also.

If i were you i would not take the driveshafts out at all, just put the tranny and tcase in neutral and drive it.

Or you can just get a trailer and tow the jeep around, that is what i did for my 83 CJ

 

Put the trany and TC in N or just get a trailer and tow it that way.

 

The trailer would be nice. Don't have a place to keep it and I don't plan to use it that often - probably 3 or 4 time a year.

I figured out the slip yoke on the rear shaft. that's why I'm trying to figure out how everyone I've seen flat towing jeeps does it.....Just haven't been able to catch someone stopped in the process.

Is it the older models (CJ's) that everyone says drop the rear shaft? Seems like its the older models people tell me to pull the shafts.

If I understand corectly, the transfer is just filled with ATF - no external coolers, etc. So what's the difference if the vehicle is being towed or driven? That's what's got me confused....