Trailer battery charging
Trailer battery charging
New to pulling travel trailer and out of curiosity I checked spot 9 & 21 and discovered empty. My 2010 F150 Lariat came with tow package and OEM brake controller which functions as it should, are there other things to be aware of to be assured that charging function is operating when plugged into TV? TIA
On my trailers I got break away systems. That charges off the truck. It has a charging indicator when the truck is supplying power, along with some other useful indicators. This way I know my trailer battery charging system is working.
You can test yours anytime by following the pinout and using a DMM set on DC/appropriate voltage.
You can test yours anytime by following the pinout and using a DMM set on DC/appropriate voltage.
New to pulling travel trailer and out of curiosity I checked spot 9 & 21 and discovered empty. My 2010 F150 Lariat came with tow package and OEM brake controller which functions as it should, are there other things to be aware of to be assured that charging function is operating when plugged into TV? TIA
I think you may be referring to locations in your fuse holder? In my truck, I had to insert a 30Amp fuse and a relay into the fuse holder under the hood to get trailer battery charging. The fuse and relay were in the glove compartment, so I didn't have to buy anything. If yours is missing, you can get them from a dealership or possibly from an automotive parts store.
- Jack
On my trailers I got break away systems. That charges off the truck. It has a charging indicator when the truck is supplying power, along with some other useful indicators. This way I know my trailer battery charging system is working.
You can test yours anytime by following the pinout and using a DMM set on DC/appropriate voltage.
You can test yours anytime by following the pinout and using a DMM set on DC/appropriate voltage.
I think you may be referring to locations in your fuse holder? In my truck, I had to insert a 30Amp fuse and a relay into the fuse holder under the hood to get trailer battery charging. The fuse and relay were in the glove compartment, so I didn't have to buy anything. If yours is missing, you can get them from a dealership or possibly from an automotive parts store.
- Jack
- Jack
I got the Hopkins The Engager.
I have this on all my trailers that have electric brakes.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Hopkins-E...&wl13=&veh=sem
I have this on all my trailers that have electric brakes.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Hopkins-E...&wl13=&veh=sem
If you have a travel trailer, you probably already have that device installed. It's simply a switch that is activated if your trailer becomes separated from your truck that applies full electric braking power from the trailer battery to the trailer brakes in that event. It keeps the trailer inline with your truck and helps you bring everything to a safe stop.
Look for a fairly thin metal cable at the tongue of your trailer. It is attached to the switch, which is usually under the tongue. The free end is to be attached by you to your truck, so that the cable would be pulled if the hitch became separated.
This is something that should be tested before a towing trip. The easiest way is to pull the cable to trip the switch and then gently pull the trailer with your truck to see if the trailer wheels are locked.
Then, YOU MUST RESET THE SWITCH! In mine, I just reinsert the pin that the cable pulled out. If you don't, the trailer's battery will be quickly discharged and you may overheat the magnets in the trailer brakes, damaging them.
- Jack
Look for a fairly thin metal cable at the tongue of your trailer. It is attached to the switch, which is usually under the tongue. The free end is to be attached by you to your truck, so that the cable would be pulled if the hitch became separated.
This is something that should be tested before a towing trip. The easiest way is to pull the cable to trip the switch and then gently pull the trailer with your truck to see if the trailer wheels are locked.
Then, YOU MUST RESET THE SWITCH! In mine, I just reinsert the pin that the cable pulled out. If you don't, the trailer's battery will be quickly discharged and you may overheat the magnets in the trailer brakes, damaging them.
- Jack
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2nd question
Thanks for the replies. 2nd question, any reason to get a isolator so when plugged in the th battery is being charged off alternator rather than draw in from tv battery, or is this a non issue?
Your trailer battery is being recharged by the TV alternator when you drive, as is your TV battery. Once the engine is running, the TV battery doesn't supply power, but it does help to "smooth out" the output of the alternator. The TV alternator essentially supplies ALL the electrical needs.
Now, if you were to turn your engine off, but leave the TV ignition ON, then the TV battery WOULD be helping to supply power to the trailer, which could drain the TV battery over time. Obviously, you would not want to do this.
- Jack




