We have bought a 2012 Grey Wolf 26BH and get to pick it up on Saturday!! But now I am going to have to get a WD hitch, our other TT's were small enough that we didn't need a WD hitch. The 26BH has a GVWR of 7500lbs, so now I have a couple questions...

1. What hitch is the best bang for your buck??
2. Should I get a sway control?
3. Should I get 750 or 1000lb bars?? (kinda thinking 1000lb, but dont know)
4. What is the main difference between the round bars and the trunnion bars?
5. Are either of these WD hitchs any good? http://www.ebay.com/itm/EAZ-LIFT-WEI...#ht_764wt_1270 or http://www.ebay.com/itm/Reese-Cequen...#ht_972wt_1139

 

1. What ever you can get the best price on.. for the most part they all accomplish the same result.(There are better and worse models)
2. Sway control is always a great idea with high profile trailers
3. Always get the higher weight capacity bars. You can always set them with less tension on lighter trailers.
4. "You will hear arguments for both, the general consensus is that trunnion systems are the better design. The bars are very easy to remove and install in the head. Since there is no bend in them, they are considered stronger and more durable. Since the head does not come down and the bars do not stick out of the bottom, there are less ground clearance issues. Some people argue that round bar systems are easier to adjust, but you set the brackets and head once and as long as you are towing the same trailer, you usually do not have to adjust them again.
A top of the line system like the Reese Strait-Line Weight Distribution System with Trunnion Bars like part # RP66074. The trunnion bars are typically easier to install and remove from the head and the Dual Cam sway control system that comes in the Strait-Line system is the top of the line sway control that Reese offers. It is a pro-active system that works to prevent sway before it even starts."
5. Both are very similar and pretty standard systems. I haven't seen that 1st one before in person.

 

Thanks! We usually only camp with-in about 60miles of home, especially this year with gas prices expected to go through the roof.

So will the systems that I posted work for my needs? The Reese/Cequent hitch has a 3yr warranty and the Camco Eaz-lift has a limited lifetime warranty, how much of a concern should the warranty really be?

 

I am picking up my new camper in a few days and i went with the Equal-i-zer hitch with sway control. I have read good things about them. My GVWR is 8,200lbs

 

i just got a 26' camper and the seller let me have the WD hitch, not exactly sure what brand it is but, its simple and easy to use, im playing it safe and i bought a sway control as well JUST to feel better when i pull it 5+ hours to a job

 

The only thing about a sway controller is this: If you are ever planning on driving in slick conditions, i.e. snow/sleet/ice, you CANNOT have the sway controller on. Basically it will prevent the truck from turning properly. Essentially, your rear truck wheels will be useless and you will then be using the trailer tires as your rear tires.

Basically it will prevent the truck and trailer to pivot at the hitch, and you will be driving a limo.

Just what I read off the directions on the Reese model. And I only say this because you live in Wisconsin.

I bought a WD off of a friend. It is the trunnion style from Reese. 1200 lb. bars. My trailer weighs in at 9200 lb. I just drove a portion of the ALCAN highway and didn't have a issue with it. My truck would likely have died on the way to Haines without it installed.

Also, you get what you pay for. The lifetime warranty doesn't include normal wear items. That includes your ball, and the chains. Those items are normal wear if you read your instructions. They will eventually have to be replaced. So those aren't covered.

Also, whatever system you go with, make sure to LUBE it before every trip, as well as during the trip if it takes you more than a day to get where you are going. It will help in the wear and tear on the WD.

 

Lots of good information here but I would offer a different point of view on the "size" of bars to get. Bigger is NOT always better. Over-sized bars can be too stiff resulting in poor ride and even the possibility of damaging your RV trailer frame. Also in the case of the Dual Cam, over-sized bars may cause the anti-sway to work sub-optimally.

By the way, I have the Reese Dual Cam with trunion bars and it works great. And I DID make the mistake of getting 1,200 bars for a 500 pound tongue weight. Changed to 800 bars and it works MUCH better. Moral of the story, size appropriately.

 

OK, now to throw another question out there. I run airbags on the rear of my truck with about 15 psi in them all the time. When we go camping I usually have anywhere from 300/400 lbs up to 900/1000lbs if I take a 4-wheeler with, yes yes I know I am over the cap of my truck with the wheeler in the bed.

How do I go about setting up a WD hitch with airbags and a load in the bed that can vary up 700 lbs from trip to trip?? Would I load the bed, the level the truck back out with the airbags then hook up to the camper like I normally would or do I load the bed, hook up to the camper and then adjust the bags??

So should I get the 1000lb bars or 750 bars? Keep in mind that I have the airbags to level the truck back out.

I am use to pulling equipment trailers with tongue weight of 750-1000lbs, but just having the high profile of the TT is what is kinda scaring me.

 

If you are planning on towing that trailer *AND* stuffing 1000# in the bed, you will be WAY over limits.

 

Sorry double post

 

It doesn't necessarily matter which one you do first honestly. I've seen people do it either order for various reasons. With that being said my preference in your situation would be to lad the bed and adjust the airbags until the truck is level. Then I would hook the camper and adjust the wd hitch. I would adjust this so that the truck is almost level and then top off the air to bring it up.

The air can really be adjusted even while your driving if you notice not handling correctly, assuming you have a controller and not just manually filling the bags.

 

Thanks alot! We picked up the TT yesterday and I was actually kinda surprised how easy it pulled, even with 15-25mph winds with gusts at 35 (according to the local TV station).

Now I am kinda debating if I really need a WD hitch or not. I took some measurements after we got home and loaded everything from our old camper into the new one, so we had everything but food and clothes.

The rear dropped 1.25" with 0 psi in the bags but 17 psi brought it back to original height. The front raised 3/8" with the camper hooked up, but once we got home I lifted up on one of the tow hooks and had my wife measure and I was able to lift up the front of the truck about 1/2".

I found a way to measure tongue weight with a bathroom scale, I am going to try that out and see what that says. But right now I am thinking about not getting a WD hitch and just doing a friction sway control with my current drawbar.

 

If you have a class 3 hitch and the tongue weight is over 500#, you MUST get a WD hitch, it's not optional. Class 3 is only rated for 500/5000 without WD. *SOME* class 3 might go to 600/6000, it should be stamped or labeled somewhere on the hitch. WD should get you to at least 1000/10000, possibly 1200/12000, that will also be stamped or labeled. To go any higher without WD, you need a class 4 hitch.

 

You need a WD hitch setup... Once you load that trailer up, things will change a lot.. Adding more air to your bags is NOT a solution either...

Mitch

 

x2. Without a WD hitch, you are taking weight off of your front axle - not a good idea. I recommend the Reese Strait-Line.