I am new to this trailering stuff and am confused as to what I need done to/for my F150 to make it a dependable tow vehicle. What I want to know is what extra equipment do I need, to be able to pull a travel trailer. I have a 2008 F150 supercrew with the 4.6 engine. The book says the truck is ready to go. I'm not so sure. Do I need a Transmission cooler? I know I will need an electric brake system ( what is the best dependable one?). Do I need to beef up the suspension? What kind of hitch? (Load leveling or regular?) As you can see I need enlightenment and the dealer was no help. The book says The truck can pull 6700# is that real? Help!

Jack

 

It all depends on how much weight you are going to tow and how far. I normally tow loaded boats and I have on more than a few occasions towed a flatbed trailer loaded with a tractor with no problems. All of my suspension/drivetrain is stock and of course I have the towing package. When my dad had it, he also used it to pull a loaded high-school band trailer to football games for us that were hours away. So really unless you are planning to tow heavy loads for long distances frequently, I wouldn't see a problem with a stock setup.

 

It all depends on what size travel trailer you're looking at pulling .......

If you don't already have a reciever hitch...I'd recommend getting one....here's a good link>>>http://www.hitchesonline.com/hitch_selection.htm

 

Trans cooler is all you need to keep it dependable. What axle ratio do you have? Look for an axle code on your driver's door and we can decode if you don't know. Do you have a 7-pin harness and receiver already? Then you already have the trans cooler too.

Towing 6000 pounds loaded with the 4.6L/4-spd combo will not be pleasant on anything but the flattest ground. And 6000 pounds loaded means 5000 pounds dry. The truck can handle it, but only you will be able to judge acceptable towing performance.

Any ideas what size/floorplan of RV you want?

 

Thanks to all of you. No, I do not yet have a good receiver hitch nor do I have a 7-pin harness. Thanks for the link i'll check it out. I do not yet knoe the kind TT i'll get but I want to stay in the 25' to 28' range. I wll have to get back to you about my axel rato. My biggest concern is safty. I had concidered a 5th wheel but have nixed that as untowable by my truck. The wife does not want a tent trailer or a hybred so my choices are limited to a tag a long TT. To sum up I need a 7-pin harness, a good receiver hitch, a transmssion cooler and an electrc brake controller. do I need any thing else?

Jack


i

 

The door tag on my truck gives an axle code of 19. What is a 19?

 

What others have said.. Keep it to about 5k dry weight and you will be ok. Trans cooler, receiver hitch- maybe a WD hitch too, 7 pin wiring connector, brake controller

The following lists the gear ratios on rear axles.
19 — 3.55 non-limited slip (Econoline, F-150)
18 — 3.08 non-limited slip (F-150)
17 — 3.31 non-limited slip (Econoline)
H9 — 3.55 limited slip (F-150, F-250)
B6 — 3.73 limited slip (F-150, F-250)
24 — 3.73 (Econoline)
32 — 4.10 (Econoline)
35 — 4.09 (Econoline)
34 — 3.73 (Econoline)
39 — 3.55 (Econoline)
52 — 4.10 (Econoline)
56 — 4.10 (Econoline)
81 — 4.63 (Econoline)
27 — 3.31 non-limited slip (F-250)
26 — 3.73 non-limited slip (F-250)
41 — 3.27 non-limited slip (Explorer/Mountaineer)
45 — 3.55 non-limited slip (Explorer/Mountaineer)
46 — 3.73 non-limited slip (Explorer/Mountaineer)
42 — 4.10 non-limited slip (Explorer/Mountaineer)
D1 — 3.27 limited slip (Explorer/Mountaineer)
D4 — 3.73 limited slip (Explorer/Mountaineer)
D2 — 4.10 limited slip (Explorer/Mountaineer)
84 — 3.45 non-limited slip (Ranger)
86 — 3.73 non-limited slip (Ranger)
87 — 4.10 non-limited slip (Ranger)
89 — 4.56 non-limited slip (Ranger)
F6 — 3.73 limited slip (Ranger)
F7 — 4.10 limited slip (Ranger)
92 — 3.08 non-limited slip (Ranger)
R5 — 3.55 limited slip (Ranger)
91 — 3.27 non-limited slip (Ranger)
96 — 3.73 non-limited slip (Ranger)
R6 — 3.73 limited slip (Ranger)"

 

I would get a brake controller for sure. If your rear sags a lot you can get a Weight Distribution (WD) Hitch and if you really want to go all out you can also get airbags installed. A few people on here have them and really enjoy it. Cheap and easy to install by yourself. But other than that, everything previous posters have mentioned are key to what you need. I know there was a thread started about a WD hitch so I'll see if I can find it for you, along with an airbag write-up.

If your concerned about safety I would first borrow a trailer or rent one for a couple days and practice driving with one (if you don't have experience already). I have been driving with a trailer since I was 15 and had my permit and I can back up a trailer very easily. I take my boat wakeboarding very frequently and I always see people who don't know how to back up with a trailer and don't know how wide you need to make turns.

D

 

Airbags: https://www.f150online.com/forums/su...bags-work.html

WD Hitch: https://www.f150online.com/forums/to...ion-hitch.html

There is a little more information on airbags and a WD Hitch. You don't NEED either of these but they help when the rear of the truck sags a lot, that can sometimes get dangerous. I only use the WD Hitch when I am towing my IH Scout since its so damn heavy. And I plan on getting the Firestone Ride Rites for my excursion for when I tow because its strictly a tow vehicle now and its starting to sag!

Hope that helps a little more.

D

 

Anyone towing a TT over about 4000 pounds, a WD is needed. F-150 receiver says 500 pounds tongue weight limit weight carrying. Skip the air bags for towing a TT. They often end up causing WD hitch setup issues.

There is a plug and play 7-pin harness for your truck, and the receiver bolts on. All pretty easy to do.

Be prepared for 7-9mpg towing at 65mph.

 

You are all AWSOME! I have towed before but it was a dinky 4x8 utility trailer I don't think towing it compares at all with towing a TT. I really appreciate the help. The TT is slated for purchase next spring if the economy holds up. I'll let you know how it goes when I get it. Right now I need to concentrate on getting the truck ready and the advice is well heeded. One question though Am I being realistic to think my truck can handle a TT of between 25' to 28'?

jack

 

It can handle the weight, but I could not handle the performance. I'm looking to upgrade my F-150 with more power and better gearing than you have for towing my 6000-6500 pounds loaded TT. It does fine in Michigan. I can pull my TT at 2900rpm and 70mph all day long except the hills. My main problem is starting off from a stop, especially uphill and freeway onramps.

My TT has a 28' box, and is an ultralight laminated walls listed at 5180 dry. It came delivered close to 5500 pounds. There are plenty of 25-28' models that will work for you, especially if you can skip the slide. How many people will be camping? You may want a bunk house for a family. Crossroads Slingshot line looks great.

 

I'm sure it will handle it fine. But like APT said, accelerating will be a slow PITA! If your concerned about it I would go to a TT Dealer and see if you are allowed to tow one around for a bit to get a feel for it. And if worse comes to worse you would just trade your truck for an F250, or even a different F150 with the 5.6L. I also have the 4.6L, but on my 98. My truck is set up for towing, but my engine is very tired so I try not to tow as much with it. I mianly use the V10 excursion! Either way good luck and safe camping!

D

 

In order to get acceptable performance towing heavy with a 4.6 Screw, you should probably regear it to at least 4.10's and get a programmer with custom towing tunes.

The best brake controllers are the Tekonsha Prodigy series.

If you don't have a factory receiver hitch, you don't have the towing package. You will NEED an aftermarket transmission cooler.

 

If the truck manual says 6700 lbs, then that is what it is. That seems reasonable as you don't have the tow package that includes a transmission oil cooler possibly engine oil and power steering fluid coolers as well.

My 2008 Sport Trac came with the 4.6L 3 valve, but looking at the ratings of the 2V and 3V, under 4700 rpms, I would bet they feel the same. At 4700 rpms, the 2V tops out at 248 HP where the 3V climbs to 5600 rpms to make 292 HP. The Torque is rated at the same rpm and the 2V is only 6 lbs shy of what my 2008 was rated for.

My Sport Trac was rated at 7000 lbs but it had the 6 speed transmission which offers better gearing and it was a good 700 lbs lighter. I honestly think the limiting factor for the sport trac's tow rating was the lighter duty differentials and axles. While the 2008 sport trac had the 6R60 trans, the 2009 and 2010 had the same trans the F150 has, the 6R80 and the tow rating actually went 10 lbs lower to 6990 lbs. The 2010 F150 Screw 4WD tow rating with the 4.6L 3 valve is 7700 lbs with the same 3.55 axle the Sport Trac used. So it was 700 lbs more towing for a truck with larger tires that would make gearing even worse, plus the truck weight is about 700 lbs heavier. Getting to the point, the F150 rating technically should be lower if all things were equal but I feel the differentials were the limiting point on the Sport Trac.

So I feel the 6700 lbs seems like a good rating. When towing travel trailer campers, this rating really won't limit you much as those trailers limit the tow rating with their heavy hitch weight. Since 1/2 ton trucks don't have much payload, their hitch weights put the trucks overloaded way before they'll ever reach their highest tow rating.

With my truck, the most I can tow before I go over my payload is right around 6900 lbs. That would be a really big travel trailer at 30'. So I think you'll be able to do pretty good even with a 6700 lbs tow rating as long as the hitch weight rating is 900 lbs or higher.

BTW, you'll need a trailer brake controller and tow mirrors. **** makes excellent slip over tow mirrors for about $70/pair. The Prodigy series Trailer Brake Controllers are the best. I have the original Prodigy and it operated as good as Ford's OEM built in brake controller. The only difference is the Ford OEM can tailor brake voltage according to electronic sway control activation and ABS operation. That's why I went with the Ford OEM. You can never pay to much for safety. The brake controller will simply plug in to the Ford harness under the dash and you may have to add a fuse for the trailer brake lights and a relay for the charging pin on the 7 pin trailer socket.

Good luck.