Ok I'm about to move cross country using a 6x12 Uhaul trailer.
Other than a hitch, is there anything I need to get before doing the tow ??
How much does a typical loaded 6x12 Uhaul Trailer weigh ??
Do I need an electric brake controller oranything like that ??
How much will towing the trailer affect my power/braking/handling ??
Will my 2" rear drop cause any problems with towing ??
Do I need to be concerned with overheating if I encounter any mountians ??

Also where's the best place to get a hitch ??

------------------
Truck Pictures
Audio System

99 XLT 5.4L Regular Cab 4x2 120" Wheelbase 4 wheel disc brakes/ABS 5 star larait style wheels Toreador Red/Silver 3.55 gears 275/70/16 Micheln LTX Delta toolbox, Ford Running Boards, Ventshades, Bugflector, Bullrings, Donnelly compass mirror, 2" Rear drop.
54regcab@bellsouth.net

[This message has been edited by 54regcab (edited 06-26-2001).]

 

Are you going to tow a trailer more then this time? If so, get the frame hitch. If not, then your bumber is actually up to this task. I'd say that even fully loaded, that UHaul will not be more then 3k. Your rig should be able to handle it ok. The only real concern will be the lack of a tranny cooler. Even if you don't ever tow again, a tranny cooler will extend the life of a tranny even in day to day driving. You may already have one? I don't know if they are standard or not anymore? I've heard other posts say that the "Tow Package" has a "larger" tranny cooler. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

You shouldn't need a brake controller. I don't think the UHauls have that capibility. They have "emergency" brakes, that will lock up if it gets loose, but that's all. I've seen Rangers tow these things, maybe only cross town, so you should be fine.

 

So where you moving to. I say that if your going to tow just the one time you should be fine.

------------------
2000 F150 XLT Reg. cab
4.6 Triton Engine
4x2 3.55 rear end gear
sliding rear window
automatic keyless entry
white styleside short box

 

I have a funny looking 2 tube "radiator" in front of the air conditioner condender.
I don't know if this this teh transmission cooler, but if so it's pretty small.
3K is nothing compared to what I see being toewd here
Going to Oklahoma City
I really don't want to trust the bumper for a cross country drive and I'm sure most of you that have towed said "it will only be once" but we all know how that goes
I might just pick up a tranny cooler just to be safe, they don't cost but about $40.00, a lot cheaper than a transmission !!

 

54regcab--

just rented a uhaul 6x12 to move a bunch of stuff to the ranch a few weekends ago. they do NOT have electric trailer brakes, but do have spring brakes (when you slow down the momentum of the trailer pushes the trailer forwards and engages the brake). the 45 mph is a cation, but you can exceed it if you feel comfortable (don't get too excited--those little tires can get hot and eventually blow out if you run too fast for too long).

depending on your hitch (class iii or iv for example) you can tow 5K or 10K or whatever your hitched is rated for (or your bumper). this may be more or less than the towing capacity your vehicle is rated for. look on the sticker inside the door on the truck and you'll see your GVWR. that's equal to the actual weight of your vehicle AND the stuff you can tow/haul. if you wanted to be really accurate, you could go to a scale and measure the truck and the trailer with just you in it. then you would subtract that from the GVWR and you would know the max # of lbs you could put in the trailer and still be within the vehicle's weight rating. you can exceed this rating if you want, but you do so at your risk. you can't blame the manufacturer for a defect if your engine gives out because you were towing more than the vehicle was rated for.

an unladen uhaul trailer doesn't weigh more than a few hundred lbs, but ask the uhaul guy if you really want to know. i'd say use about 500 lbs for an estimate. when you load the trailer: 10% of the weight goes on the tongue and the try to balance as much as you can over the wheels. look inside the trailer for a diagram if you need more help on this. you can overload the trailer if you want, but do so at your risk.

towing affects your power braking and handling etc. that means: allow extra time and DISTANCE to stop. don't make sudden movements which could cause you to jackknife or whatever. stopping and starting quickly can wreck your brakes and your gas mileage. just take it easy and you'll be fine. just drive it like the day it was brand-new and you were afraid a bug might scratch the paint or wear down the tires.

a 2" drop shouldn't be a problem unless you notice that the trailer angle is really wierd on the ball. ask the uhaul guy and they'll let you know. if it's extreme (which it shouldn't be), then you'll just need to use a hitch with a riser on it.

mountains? nope, not unless you're carrying a trailer full of lead. had cruise control on going over parley's canyon which is a 9% grade for about fifteen miles. no problem up or down. do the same with the horses, too. love the 5.4L.

this information comes from experience with the uhaul trailers, as well as towing patrol boats (when i was a state boating cop), and horses (currently a four horse trailer). you shouldn't have any problems. if you have more questions, email me.

------------------
"flexible hips mean higher steps"

2001 F-150 Supercab XLT 4x4 5.4L auto in Bright Silver
optional equipment: carpet delete, tow package, power adjustable pedals, "man"ual 4wd shift lever, law enforcement scanner, CB w/PA, spray-in Speedliner, Streamlight Stinger, Graco infant car seat
quickdraw.f150online.net
quickdrawf150@hotmail.com

[This message has been edited by quickdraw (edited 06-27-2001).]

 

That's probably just the power steering cooler you are seeing. I bet it's on the drivers side, right. Why Ford thinks you need a power steering cooler is beyond me, but there you go. The tranny cooler (if it exists)would be on the pass side and is about 8"X12" and looks like a "mini" radiator.

Yeah, always better safe then sorry. I once towed a 5k loaded trailer with a 1/2 ton Chevy Van from Wash. DC to Upstate NY using only one of those bolt on bumper hitches!! (I don't think the bumber was even rated to tow either!) It was a company van/trailer and I made it safely there, but I was really nervous the whole way. Every bump I hit, I thought I was going to lose the trailer.

Good Luck and have a safe trip.

 

Great towing advice quickdraw.

 

Thanks guys for the advise guys
I dunno about Ford, a power steering cooler yet no transmission cooler, kinda dumb if you ask me
A hitch and coooler will be less than $150.00 total plus the $172.00 for the trailer is still one heck of a lot cheaper than $1000.00 for the uhaul truck and a car dolly.
45 MPH is pretty slow for interstate driving, do you think 65-70 is pushing it too much ??
I will keep an eyeball on the tire temp though, don't want to blow anything out.
Interesting braking system, why is Uhaul the only one using it ??

 

Your nerves will thank you for staying at 55.

------------------
Y2K™ Jim - N8JG@Hotmail.com

Toreador Red, Keyless XLT SC SB 5.4L E4x4 4wDisc/ABS, 3.73LS, Skid, HD 7700# Towing, LT-245's on Chrome, Tube-Steps, Captain's, 6CD, Tonneau, named: "Nick"

 

So 54regcab did you complete your move yet and how well did the truck do on the long haul.

 

...and other drivers will Thank you for staying out of the left lane...

Good Luck...and be careful!

 

Their 45 mph advisory is to cover their own ****. If you exceed it, it's no longer their liability. Do they reccomend it? no. Can it be done? It happens every day.

I towed one from Detroit to Boston and back last Spring empty both ways behind my mom's Expedition with the 5.4. No problem. Also towed a loaded one from Detroit to Boston with a 87 T-bird loaded with gear on it.

They use a surge brake setup on the trailers because it doesn't take any special wiring to connect it to a vehicle. It's built into the tongue on the trailer, and is pretty reliable. I have a similar setup (different brand) on the trailer for my boat (5000 lbs loaded) and it works quite well. Obviously it doesn't stop on a dime with or without brakes, but it makes a world of difference versus not having brakes.

Couple of notes: First of all, double check their hookup to the trailer. In my experience, generally, the dunces that hook you up know nothing about towing. (Not slamming U-haul employees, just telling my experiences) The one I hauled my buddy's t-bird on, when I picked it up, the guy that hooked it up left the electrical connection as tight as a bow-string (no way it could've cornered without pulling the plug out!), didn't cross the safety chains, and left the chains hanging low enough that they actually dragged over anything that resembled a bump!

Lessons: Make sure the **** that tightens the tongue to the ball is tight every time you stop. (It may loosen as you drive)

Make sure the lights work BEFORE you pull out of the parking lot.

Make sure the chains are the proper length and CROSSED under the tongue. This will ensure they catch the tongue before it hits the ground in the event of ball/coupler failure. (If the chains were not crossed, you would drag the coupler across the pavement, surely destroying it)

Make Make sure you check the tread on the tires and inspect them for abnormal wear and cracking. Don't be afraid to ask for a different trailer if you feel uncomfortable using the one they give you.

If you ever use a flat-bed car hauler, make sure you have the correct tie-downs for the vehicle. (i.e one for each front wheel) The last time I used one, they said that one was all I needed! ?!?!?!

Also, regarding their electrical connections, you'll need an adapter for their, "special" electrical connectors. Buy one from them and keep it. If you get lucky, sometimes they guy who used it last left their connector behind. Also, if you know anyone who's ever rented from them before, you might be able to borrow it from them. Just don't be shocked when they add that to the bill.

Good Luck!

-Joe-

 

Also check the brake fluid level in the surge brake master cylinder regularly. I had the surge brakes fail on me on a large U-Haul trailer in the mountains (not fun)! The trailer was loaded to over 5000lbs (filled with wood working tools and books) and I was really glad I had a 3/4 ton truck.

The worst part was that the surge brakes let the trailer bang into the truck every time I hit the brakes because there was no fluid in the system to cushion the blow.

Once repaired, the system worked surprisingly well.

Ian

 

54Regcab said:I towed a heavy 6x12 from Houston to Dallas with my 4.2L with no problem. I went about 70 mph the whole way. When it got just a little hilly, I turned off the cruise control. Your two inch step down may actually help. My truck is an SXT with 17" wheels. It made the tongue a bit high and the rear of the trailer low. I was cautioned about going over dips, bumps etc. where I might drag the rear of the trailer. If your truck sits high, the step down hitch should level it out.

 

I went about 90-95 with a 3000# trailer from Bulls gap (about 50 miles from where I live) with my box trailer. (6x10) No problem there. I wouldn't recommend that you do that because looking back I realize it was pretty damn stupid on my part. Left that little honda behind though.