Towing & Hauling

2008 Screw Payload vs. 2009 Screw Payload

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Old Feb 23, 2009 | 08:11 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by greencrew
I understand why you would want to be under the tow rating, but why would you want to be under for the load rating?

The number on my sticker is 1425.



Isn't a longer truck more stable towing?
Why would I want to be UNDER the load rating? Huh? I'm not understanding your question. Your basically asking "Why would I want to drive a truck under loaded, or under it's payload capacity". Are you suggesting I drive it overloaded? I don't understand. Right now with my 2008 I am mer than a couple hunderd pounds OVER the load rating... that's payload AND the gross vehicle weight rating. I am, however, UNDER the Gross Combined Weight Rating, but the WDH won't compensate enough for a vehicle that is overloaded.

Yes, a longer truck is more stable. Canuck_81 is correct with the shorter wheelbase giving a higher payload, but the difference is well under a hundred pounds... close to fifty. Even that wouldn't have pulled me out of the overloaded section.
 
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Old Feb 23, 2009 | 07:35 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Smokewagun
Why would I want to be UNDER the load rating? Huh? I'm not understanding your question. Your basically asking "Why would I want to drive a truck under loaded, or under it's payload capacity". Are you suggesting I drive it overloaded? I don't understand. Right now with my 2008 I am mer than a couple hunderd pounds OVER the load rating... that's payload AND the gross vehicle weight rating. I am, however, UNDER the Gross Combined Weight Rating, but the WDH won't compensate enough for a vehicle that is overloaded.

Yes, a longer truck is more stable. Canuck_81 is correct with the shorter wheelbase giving a higher payload, but the difference is well under a hundred pounds... close to fifty. Even that wouldn't have pulled me out of the overloaded section.
I understand we have a general rule of pulling a trailer no more than 80% of what the truck is rated to pull. We do that for safety reasons. However, There is no such rule for payload capacity.

Part of that reason is because as the trailer gets heavier, it starts to outweigh the truck. You end up with a 6k truck controlling a 9k trailer. Is there any advantage moving 1k from the trailer to the truck? Now you have a 7k truck pulling an 8k trailer. Granted, we still have to stop 15k either way.

An truck loaded to full capacity needs more room to stop, but have we created any safety concerns? I can't think of any.
 
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Old Feb 24, 2009 | 07:02 AM
  #18  
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Greencrew, the point of the 80% generalization is to keep the truck under GVWR becasue vehicle manufacturers have been lying, err. GVWR is the most weight the truck can support as I said in post number 10 above. Exceeding it means more stress on the components than what the truck is designed for which means at a minimum, reduced life of said components and possible failure.
 
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Old Feb 24, 2009 | 08:14 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by greencrew
I understand we have a general rule of pulling a trailer no more than 80% of what the truck is rated to pull. We do that for safety reasons. However, There is no such rule for payload capacity.

Part of that reason is because as the trailer gets heavier, it starts to outweigh the truck. You end up with a 6k truck controlling a 9k trailer. Is there any advantage moving 1k from the trailer to the truck? Now you have a 7k truck pulling an 8k trailer. Granted, we still have to stop 15k either way.

An truck loaded to full capacity needs more room to stop, but have we created any safety concerns? I can't think of any.
How can you say there is no rule for payload? I think it's the limit or rating we should not exceed, right? I understand what you are getting at here, but as I stated, I am OVER the payload already. I'm not looking to find our what percentage (say 80%) of the payload rating I can comfortably carry. I am over by several hundred pounds (300-400). I recalculated weights yesterday and I may be closer to 725 pounds over the 1,329 the door sticker displays.

My trailer doesn't offer the capability to move cargo around to the rear of the trailer to adjust the tongue weight like my last travel trailer... at least properly to prevent stuff from moving around in transit and destroying cabinet finishes, flooring, etc. So, I am stuck with loading the storage compartment in the front of the trailer or the truck bed. Either way, it is payload or tongueweight. I'm sure payload ratings are not provided for just some additional data to look at - they are provided for a reason. I think exceeding the rating by 10-15% could be within reason once in a while, but 55%, that may be a serious stretch of the rules... or let's say the saftey factor. Would you agree?
 
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Old Feb 24, 2009 | 12:26 PM
  #20  
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Smoke, you should just take your current rig to a scale to find out how much is on your axles. It may not be quite that bad, but it is useful for planning what to do next. Maybe a 350 is better?
 
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Old Feb 24, 2009 | 02:06 PM
  #21  
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Just the thread I was looking for

smoke I hope you don't mind but I have a quick yes or no question. I just ordered a new trailer and I would like to know if I can pull it off with my truck in this scernario

Truck Specs

5.4 v8
3.55 Gear Ratio
Tow Package
Factory wheels are 20's but will be upgraded to 23's running 305/40/23 tires


Trailer Specs


6x12 Single Axle
Torsion axle (3500lb)
Electric Brakes
Curb weight 1280

I will be hauling only two quads and together they weigh about 850lbs. So 850lbs + trailer weight is 2130lbs. I know that this is probably nothing but I'm wondering if this is ok being that I'm upgrading to a 23" wheel running 305/40/23 tires. What should I expect from this setup ride & towing wise?

Is tongue weight and hitch weight the same thing? If so what would mine be?

Thanks
 
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Old Feb 24, 2009 | 03:01 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by pmason718
smoke I hope you don't mind but I have a quick yes or no question. I just ordered a new trailer and I would like to know if I can pull it off with my truck in this scernario

Truck Specs

5.4 v8
3.55 Gear Ratio
Tow Package
Factory wheels are 20's but will be upgraded to 23's running 305/40/23 tires


Trailer Specs


6x12 Single Axle
Torsion axle (3500lb)
Electric Brakes
Curb weight 1280

I will be hauling only two quads and together they weigh about 850lbs. So 850lbs + trailer weight is 2130lbs. I know that this is probably nothing but I'm wondering if this is ok being that I'm upgrading to a 23" wheel running 305/40/23 tires. What should I expect from this setup ride & towing wise?

Is tongue weight and hitch weight the same thing? If so what would mine be?

Thanks
The gears that you have are going to hurt you the most when running those size tires. A gear swap to 4.10's or higher would serve you best when towing with the large tires.
 
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Old Feb 24, 2009 | 03:13 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by canuck_871
The gears that you have are going to hurt you the most when running those size tires. A gear swap to 4.10's or higher would serve you best when towing with the large tires.
When you say hurt me the most what do you mean. Do you mean pulling, gas,etc. That's not a lot of weight compared to what a lot of guys on here be pulling.
 
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Old Feb 24, 2009 | 03:29 PM
  #24  
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23" wheels, such an odd size. How much do they weigh if you have the model picked out? That will hurt you the most. Tires in that size appear to have adequate load ratings (115). Since you have a 2WD, changing gears is cheap and easy if you end up not liking the performance. Otherwise, any single 3500 pound axle trailer should be just fine for your truck.
 
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Old Feb 24, 2009 | 03:37 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by APT
23" wheels, such an odd size. How much do they weigh if you have the model picked out? That will hurt you the most. Tires in that size appear to have adequate load ratings (115). Since you have a 2WD, changing gears is cheap and easy if you end up not liking the performance. Otherwise, any single 3500 pound axle trailer should be just fine for your truck.
I have the 23' Saleen wheels but I don't know how much they weigh. Will the 305/40/23 tire be able to handle me pulling a trailer fully loaded that weighs about 2200lbs? If so what PSI should I run in them. What does changing gears consist of and how much is that.
 
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Old Feb 24, 2009 | 04:16 PM
  #26  
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The weight of that trailer should not be an issue with either tires, however the performance will likely suffer with larger tires. Fuel economy will suffer and you may not be able to hold overdrive with the 3.55 gears while towing. You could always try towing with both the stock tires and the 23's and see if there is a significant difference towing.
 
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Old Feb 24, 2009 | 05:11 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by canuck_871
The weight of that trailer should not be an issue with either tires, however the performance will likely suffer with larger tires. Fuel economy will suffer and you may not be able to hold overdrive with the 3.55 gears while towing. You could always try towing with both the stock tires and the 23's and see if there is a significant difference towing.
When I pick up my trailer at the end of March I will have my stock 20's on but for Memorial Day I will have my 23's on it when heading to NC.

Should I tow it with overdrive off or on with the factory 20's (the trailer will be empty) when I go to pick it up in Mcadoo, PA

Should I tow it with overdrive off or on with the Saleen 23's on it when towing (trailer will be loaded 800lbs) to and from Raleigh, NC.


Also how can I tell if I can hold OD on or not.

Thanks
 
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Old Feb 24, 2009 | 07:45 PM
  #28  
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When towing, only turn the overdrive off if the transmission keeps downshifting or "hunting" while towing at highway speeds. Otherwise you should be alright to leave the overdrive on. This is pretty much what it says in the owners manual but you should read it over for your own piece of mind.

If you are not going to be towing this trailer alot and you are happy with the performance of the 3.55 and 23's, I would suggest at least getting a transmission temperature monitor to be sure you are not overheating your tranny.
 
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Old Feb 24, 2009 | 09:59 PM
  #29  
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Sorry I'm late to the dance, but it looks like everyone else has you covered, PMason718. I think you've got some good advice.

On the tire note, your trailer is nowhere the weight of my travel trailer, but I think my slightly larger than factory 20's with their exessive weight and slightly oversized width have killed my performance, too. So, I'll bet you'll be a little unhappy with the 23's even with your 2,000 pound tail.

APT, I intend on hitting the scales as you suggested. I just have to find the time. This weekend, I may try to scale just the truck. That will give me a good idea what I can add. I have good numbers on tongue weights, but again, I'm going to have to scale it to be 100% positive. The payload left on an F-250 is enough to make me think the cost adder to go 350 is well worth it, too. Then, a small fifth wheel won't keep me limited... again.
 
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Old Feb 24, 2009 | 10:25 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by APT
Greencrew, the point of the 80% generalization is to keep the truck under GVWR becasue vehicle manufacturers have been lying, err. GVWR is the most weight the truck can support as I said in post number 10 above. Exceeding it means more stress on the components than what the truck is designed for which means at a minimum, reduced life of said components and possible failure.
I understand your point, but it's just common to run vehicles near GVWR, plumbers do it all the time, and for the whole life of the vehicle. It's tough on the suspension, not necessarily the drive train.
 
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