I am looking into buying a 24ft enclosed trailer to pull a car. The trailer runs about 3500lbs, car 2500lbs, 1000lbs stuff. So, lets say 7500 lbs max for everything. I have an '07 5.4 w/3.53 lsd and factory tow package. The Ford site lists my specific model at 8500 max loaded trailer weight. I am installing SIDO, AF1 and Xcal w/tow setting. Will use Prodigy brake controller and equalizer WD hitch. I will be going to syth motor oil and Amsoil tranny fluid. Will tow about 4-6 times a year. Live in TX so its pretty flat, although I usually do one big tow a year into to some track further east (more hills).

I guess first and foremost, does this sound like a suitable setup? I don't want to get myself into trouble pulling something bigger than I should with the truck I own. I also don't want to over tax a brand new truck I plan on owning at least 200k miles.

Any other suggestions on upgrades for the truck? Will the tranny and diffs have enough cooling in stock config? Again I am not looking to beat the **** out of the truck want a setup that will last a long time and be safe.

 

3500 pounds for 24' seems light. My guess is it will have 5k axles and you'll be closer to 8-8500 pounds. As such, it isn't something I'd want to pull with a 1/2 ton pickup, but if you've got the truck already....

 

Again, I agree. Sounds really light for a 24'. Better get it on the scale.

That said, if you are not in the mountains it should be OK. Just don't expect to race up hills. Verify the weights though, it won't take much to throw you over the limits.

 

2,500 for car sound light too. Maybe a Mini is 2,500. What kind of a car is it?

 

I agree the weight seems a little low on the trailer too. I called a couple different trailer lots though and all said 3500-3700lbs. Its a race car and it actually weighs a little less than 2500lbs. With a fudge factor of 500lbs I am still only at 7500 lbs. That's 3500 trailer, 2500 car, 1000 gear.

I will def. be getting actual weights on the trailer before I buy. May go down to a 22ft if the weight is just to high on the 24. I'd love the 24' for the space but if its too heavy then I won't be able to use the space for anything anyway.

 

A bigger problem than the weight will be whether you go with a V nose as you asked in the other thread. Having a flat front will cause more trouble than the weight.

 

Based On the responses from the other post I am def. going to go with the v nose. It only costs about $150 so it seems kinda like a no brainer. More space, better gas mileage and easier to tow

Thanks for all the advice. I will take head of the weight concerns. I am going to look at 20,22 and 24ft trailers and the weights of all.

 

I know most here dont always agree with me on working a truck to its max towing capacity but I do it with good results. These f-150's are heavy and as others mentioned you wont be winning any races getting there, but it will get the job done in a safe controlled manner. I would highly suggest a Edge tuner so you can firm up the shifts, kill some gear hunting and monitor trans temps. Other than that your good to go, and the V nose is a great choice

 

I would normally lean with Scott about pushing to the limits, but the manufacturers are reducing their fudge factors to post bigger capacities - I towed a regular cab Ram 6.5' bed in an enclosed 20' (flat nose) - I'd estimate that trailer at 3200# and the truck is a little over 5000# probably 8600# loaded and ready (and over the limit). My truck had a K&N FIPK, SuperChips tuner(set to tow), and a magnaflow exhaust. The truck was working pretty hard even on the flat. When I got to the mountains... on the way back at 2 am, I unloaded the Ram and did some high speed passes in Utah.

Depending on the trailer construction, weight could vary a lot - trailer manufacturers have a huge history of underestimating trailer weights. Put it on the scale before the cash goes out. With the V nose, you gain some space, might be able to reduce the length (and weight).

Also, if you don't have the 4.10 gears, plan on a gear swap for better towing.

 

Called a dealer in Georgia today and got some more info. He has 8 dealers and sells for 3 manuf. He says a 24ft will weight in at about 4500lbs. A 20ft at about 4k. He said these trailers are all made about the same and there is no way one will weigh in at 3500lbs. He said the other places were basically lying.

He also said that with the V-nose you can't use an Equalizer or any other type of weight distributing hitch. I asked if there was any other type system that would work but he said no.

So, crap I am about out of luck on this thing. The largest I can do for weight is a 20ft but then I NEED that v-nose for the space. With the v-nose I can't use the equalizer though. One thing I was thinking is why couldn't I cut through the v-nose panelling to expose the frame rails where I would attach the equalizer brackets? Its the same trailer as a flat front just has paneling to create the V.

I don't know, starting to feel like I am forcing something that's just not a good fit. I need to go to a local trailer place and check some of these out I guess.

 

You'll love this. Just called another guy in Alabama and asked him about weights. He opened up his Pace factory catalog and listed the weights as follows:

20 FT -3120lbs
24 FT -3400 lbs

I told him another guy was quoting me up in the 4500lb range. He said he didn't know but he was happy to fax me a copy of the catalog. I looked on the roadmaster website and their trailers were coming in around 3500lbs too.

Who the hell knows. I am going to have to weigh whatever I am looking at. I have car scales so I'll just throw the trailer on that.

 

The catalogs are always an estimate by the manufacturer - and virtually always low. The guy who is telling you 4-4,500 has nothing to gain by telling the truth, other than a happy customer. And of course the estimates, NEVER include any options, like a spare tire or plywood lining, etc. Scale it the way you want to buy it and you'll see where it is.

You might check Featherlite for a lighter trailer, but watch the $$$$$$$$ go through the roof.

On the equalizer brackets, they can be welded to the tongue. Most dealers don't like to weld on new trailers.