I'm looking at getting a car hauler for my Elise. Most of my towing will be local (5 hrs tops), but I do have one monster trip from Charlotte, NC to Aspen, Colorado and back coming up. The car is small (12.5' long) and light (1900 lbs) so I could fit it in a 8.5'x16', but it really doesn't leave any room for some cabinets or a tool box. I have found a nice used 20' with e-brakes on both axles that would be great, but I'm concerned about the weight. Fully loaded I estimate it would be around 6000 lbs. I would have to change the stock class 3 hitch on the truck to a class 4 as well as install the brake controller. Is this doable to pull this over the Rockies at 11,000 feet with a 140K mile 5.4L 2wd 3.55LS F150? Ford says the limit is 8000 lbs, but I have never pulled anything this heavy before.

 

An 8x16 'V'-nose trailer should work.

Most manufacturer's don't count the v-nose in the overall lenght...so a 16' would actuall give you 17-18' of total internal length. The v-nose will help cut the wind as well as give you adequate room to store a tool chest. The problem is most "car haulers" with an internal dove-tail to help loading will have a minimum length of 20'.

I highly recommend a trailer w/ electric brakes, installing a brake controller as well as a double axle trailer. This will lesson some of the burdon of the weight on the truck, so the truck will just have to pull the weight.

By the way DOT states that for the GVW you will need electric brakes on both axles...so that is a must...not a suggestion. Some trailer manufacturer's do not make DOT legal trailers.

Since you plan to travel to Colorado, make sure you are DOT compliant. The State Patrol loves to toy with trailer haulers...because most are not compliant....you will also need to carry a 1st aid kit and safety triangles.

Good luck on your trailer quest...hope it works out for you.

If I were planning that kind of trip to Aspen even from where I live in Colorado, I would want at least a 3/4 ton w/ a diesel. Going up I-70 west of Denver towards Eisenhower tunnel is a strain even for unloaded vehicles.

 

I have been searching classifieds for trailers for several weeks now, and I just don't really see used 16' v-nose trailers anywhere. 24's are the most popular, but are too heavy for an F150. I found a good deal on a 20' that is already set up with a tire rack, tool box, workbench, overhead lights, and electrical hook ups. Is it just wishful thinking to think my F150 will pull it without a problem?

 

I think your most limiting factor is your overall gear ratio. Get a smaller tire and wheel set to use while towing this hauler or switch to at least 4.10 gears and keep current tires and wheels.

Tekonsha Prodigy is arguably the best brake controller out there. There are better ones but the install is more involved and the price is much higher. If it doesnt stop great put powerslots on the truck or discs on the trailer axles.

I dont want to mention what I pull on here, it gets others fired up. You have good mods on your truck but a programmer may be of benefit too. Gears and a programmer and you have an F250 in my opinion.

 

A 20' trailer should be fine for your truck. That should still be under 3500 pounds empty. Your tires are actually 29.2" tall so no need for gear swap. If you have the OEM tow package, then your receiver is a class IV already when used with a weight distributing hitch that you'll want to use with 6000 pounds anyway. No need to swap it. Both axles electric brakes and don't even bother looking at any other controller than the Prodigy. You can spend $25 less and be frustrated when you set it up and every time you use it. You can spend $100 more and get similar performance and convienence.

If you are considering new, check out www.cardinal-sales.com for some good deals. My FIL bought a 7x14 utiluty trailer for about 1500 less than anyone local. Their web site is not designed well. Th key with them is to find a good price on a factory pickup vs. shipped to their lot. There are factories all over the country for the 16 brands they carry/deal with and may be one within reasonable driving distance for you to pick up. Anyway, the have an 8.5'x20" car hauler for $4800 as one example.

V-nose will get you about 2mpg on flat highway. If looking for new, I'd get it. Used, selection probably isn't much.

 

I was careful when I went with wheels and tires to not exceed the stock overall diameter since I knew that would drastically affect the braking. I have also upgraded to slotted rotors and the Hawk pads, so the brakes should be a bit better than stock. I have found two different 8.5x20 used trailers that would be ideal for my car. They are both fully set up with a tire rack, tool box, cabinets, lighting, interior and exterior electrical outlets, etc. One of them has an RV generator and A/C, but it also weighs 4200 lbs empty. Throw in the car, spare set of wheels, tools, air compressor, etc. and this one could be pushing close to 7000 lbs. The one without the generator and A/C will be at least 500 lbs lighter. Neither has a v-nose though. I did just see a 8.5'x18' show up on ebay that would be another few hundred lbs lighter.

 

Hey Cross, Is thier much of a chance on finding out the "good deal" on the 20' trailer with the generator if your not leaning on goin that way? Robbie

P.S. dont expect to get good mpg's with the 20' set up but set up properly (with the WD hitch, etc.) it is possiable if the long trip is a rare or one time ocasion, otherwise its to much of a strain on the f150

 

16 foot will work fine. i have a 16 foot open trailer and I find it easier to ratchet down my 93 Cobra compared to a closed deck trailer.With a closed deck that I've used before you have to wedge yourself under that car to hook up your tiedowns.I dont used factory holes in my frame to ratched down my Cobra I use 2 axel straps through my front cross member and two axel straps over my rear axel (crisscrossed in the back)
Just my 2 cents. Hope it helps

 

The only way to tie down the Elise is through the wheels with wheel straps. I would install permanent wedges at the front along with a d-ring right in front of the front tires and right behind the rear tires. This would enable me to secure the car with very short straps so there would be very little stretching of the straps over time. Most people tie down the Elise this way. I'm still thinking about renting an open car hauler as I can get away with not owning the trailer for probably a year, but no one rents an open car hauler with a stone guard on the front.