Will this help (Brakes)???
Will this help (Brakes)???
i will be towing a 2 horse trailer with usually one small horse in it this summer that doesn't have electric brakes, i will be very careful and will leave extra room (but you know anything could happen) between myself and other vehicles, but i have stock brakes right now. my question is how bad will the stopping be with stock brakes, if i get money to go with slotted rotors and ceramic pads how much will that help? thanks for all the replies
A trailer with even just one horse is going to weigh at least 4000 pounds and it’s not your ideal load. Horses are top-heavy and they move. I know - I tow a horse trailer myself.
I’m trying to think of a positive spin on this, but unfortunately I can’t. That much weight without trailer brakes is dangerous. If you’ve ever hauled before, you know people just love to cut trucks and trailers off. Then there’s wind and the possibility of trailer sway. Trailer brakes will help you stay out of ugly situations.
For the safety of yourself, your horse and others out on the road you really need a trailer with brakes. I highly suggest retrofitting your trailer.
I’m trying to think of a positive spin on this, but unfortunately I can’t. That much weight without trailer brakes is dangerous. If you’ve ever hauled before, you know people just love to cut trucks and trailers off. Then there’s wind and the possibility of trailer sway. Trailer brakes will help you stay out of ugly situations.
For the safety of yourself, your horse and others out on the road you really need a trailer with brakes. I highly suggest retrofitting your trailer.
I pull an 18' flatbed with a Ranger on it which should weigh similar to your trailer with one horse in it. Speaking from experience stopping without electric brakes just isn't an option. If you had something larger like a 1 ton with rear disks or a larger truck (F450 or 550) then you might stand a chance, but your trailer still may try to go some other direction since it doesnt' have brakes. The panic stops is what you want to prepare for and with no electric brakes on the trailer you don't have a choice in the matter, you will not stop. To retrofit an older trailer depends on the axles you have. Most likely its going to cost about $200 per axle at least to add brakes. Then you need to rewire the trailer to a 6 round or 7 round conector. Then rewire your truck to the same and then add a brake controller in your truck. My advice is to find a different truck to pull this trailer. One that has a little more engine and has a better braking setup that will handle this better. Also a heavier truck will hold the trailer in line better than a small light truck. If you do ultimately decide to pull this trailer with no brakes with your F150 please let me know so I can stay off the roads that day. I almost didn't make the first trip with my trailer after I got it cause the brakes weren't working right and I didn't want to be responsible for piling into the back of a minivan full of kids. Luckily I got my brakes working and I made the trip, but I always keep in mind that I'm not the only one on the road.
thanks for the reply
i understand it's dangerous, but i would only be going about 10 miles on backroads... so i'm hoping if i go slow i could do it. thanks for the prices... wish i could get a bigger truck to pull it... no $$$
payableondeath6;
No matter what you are going to tow this trailer with, in most places if you are towing more than 3500 lbs of gross trailer weight, you legally need trailer brakes. If I were you, I would call your local dept. of transportation for details. I have posted on this forum before about towing more than the GCWR of the Ford pick-ups but I wouldn't think of doing it without brakes on the trailer. That much inertia needs to be stopped by its own brakes instead of the brakes of the tow vehicle. Trailer brakes and controllers are cheap. GlennMc.
No matter what you are going to tow this trailer with, in most places if you are towing more than 3500 lbs of gross trailer weight, you legally need trailer brakes. If I were you, I would call your local dept. of transportation for details. I have posted on this forum before about towing more than the GCWR of the Ford pick-ups but I wouldn't think of doing it without brakes on the trailer. That much inertia needs to be stopped by its own brakes instead of the brakes of the tow vehicle. Trailer brakes and controllers are cheap. GlennMc.
how much $$$
i was wondering if i could get trailer brakes installed (on the trailer, which has only one axle, and wired up to my truck with a controller) for around $500? i wouldn't be able to do them myself b/c i don't have the time or skill recquired (at least not IMO) so i would need them done by a shop. if i could get them done for around $500 i would gladly get them, but if it's going to be around $1k i could sell my truck and get a high mileage F250 for that price... so please let me know how much you think it would be. thanks
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Doing a quick search;
www.etrailer.com
$49.95x2 for 3500lb 10"x2.25" drum assemblies------------$99.90
$39.95x2 for 10" brake assemblies------------------------$79.90
$6.01 6-way Trailer End connector------------------------$6.01
$8.82 6-way Car End connector---------------------------$8.82
$59.95 Tekonsha PowerTrac Time Delay------------------$59.95
----------------------------------------------------------------
Just for the main parts ---------------------------------$254.58
You also have to figure in misc. wiring, connectors, labor, and whether you get the parts local or not, but this will give you an idea. I am also assuming that you're not going to be doing this very often is why I priced a cheap Time Delay brake controller. I am also assuming that the trailer has the correct flanges for the brake backing plates.
www.etrailer.com
$49.95x2 for 3500lb 10"x2.25" drum assemblies------------$99.90
$39.95x2 for 10" brake assemblies------------------------$79.90
$6.01 6-way Trailer End connector------------------------$6.01
$8.82 6-way Car End connector---------------------------$8.82
$59.95 Tekonsha PowerTrac Time Delay------------------$59.95
----------------------------------------------------------------
Just for the main parts ---------------------------------$254.58
You also have to figure in misc. wiring, connectors, labor, and whether you get the parts local or not, but this will give you an idea. I am also assuming that you're not going to be doing this very often is why I priced a cheap Time Delay brake controller. I am also assuming that the trailer has the correct flanges for the brake backing plates.
P.O.D.6 it doesn't matter what kind of truck you have you still legally need trailer brakes in most states.
i don't think any family member of a recently deceased person (accident wise) will understand or care if you thought brakes were too pricey. just a thought.
i don't think any family member of a recently deceased person (accident wise) will understand or care if you thought brakes were too pricey. just a thought.
just to let you know i haven't hauled the trailer yet. this is my first truck and will be my first time driving a horse trailer. so maybe you understand now that i'm new to all of this. i most definitely don't want to put anyone's lives at risk (including myself and others on the road). i was merely asking a question which it seems i've gotten answered, through the answers i've received from the nice members on F150online i've decided that i most definitely won't be hauling the trailer without brakes and more than likely will be selling my F150 for an F250 and getting brakes on the trailer before i tow it at all. i would appreciate taking into account a little thought process when reading all threads, don't suppose people post their every thought online... some people have other lives than their trucks
although few
although few
no harm done...
just didn't want the wrong impression to get started... i'll probably be getting a F250, not a SuperDuty though. it'll be a 4X4 with a 5.4L V8 and i'll call some trailer shops about brakes. still don't even have tags on the trailer yet, so i've got a little while, although horse show season is quickly approaching. i'll miss my F150 when the time comes (being my 1st truck and all, but i'll enjoy the V8 4X4). thanks
just didn't want the wrong impression to get started... i'll probably be getting a F250, not a SuperDuty though. it'll be a 4X4 with a 5.4L V8 and i'll call some trailer shops about brakes. still don't even have tags on the trailer yet, so i've got a little while, although horse show season is quickly approaching. i'll miss my F150 when the time comes (being my 1st truck and all, but i'll enjoy the V8 4X4). thanks
Why buy a non SD F250? To get a 5.4L you'd be looking at a 97/98 F250LD or a 99-03 F150 7700LB. If you don't get a SD I'd look at a 97 and older 3/4 ton. This will give you better choices on engines and IMO a more reliable drivetrain. The F250LD is a slightly beefed up F150 with 7lug axles (which nobody else uses and not many mfg make wheels with this bolt pattern). The older 97 F250HD got the D50TTB front and 10.5 full floater rear (both 8 lug) which is better than the LD would have. The full floater rear will handle towing much better than the semi floater counterparts would, and they have very large drum brakes on the rear which are also very good for towing. You'd also have the 351W and 460 to choose from for engines. You can pick those trucks up for about the same money as the LD goes for (at least around my home area you can).
well...
i found a pretty good deal on a 98 F250 LD... but the guy sold it already so i won't be getting one of those. but right now am may be looking into a V10 F250 i found a decent price on, but i will definitely look into some of the pre 97's (their just not as pretty
). thanks
). thanks


