I got my truck back from the dealer after having the rotors turned for the second time in 15K miles. It was doing the typical shudder when I hit the brakes. The mechanic blamed the trailer towing. We tow a '90 Prowler (6200 # loaded) and I set the controller so I don't feel the trailer is pushing me, but not dragging, either.

Questions for more experienced tow'ers:
1. Was the mechanic right?
2. Is there a trick to setting the controller sensitivity?
3. Is there a difference between controllers?
4. Do some trailers modulate the braking better than others?
5. What rotor/pad combination should I look at come replacement time?

Peace, Dennis

 

As an auto tech for 45 years i doubt very much if warped
rotors can be laid on any one thing you are doing or not.
Every auto and truck can have this happen.Between years
1995 and 2000 all manufactors bought a lot or rotors.The
problem seemed to ease up after 2000.Sounds to me like your mechanic is saying don't use your truck to tow.
Find another mechanic.

Mike

 

What brand/model brake controller you are using??

I can tell you there is a HUGE difference between them. I got one of those cheapie brands that cost about $50.00. Sure, it activated the trailer brakes, but it was always really jerky or not at all......

I then got a Prodigy. WOW, what a difference. Setup is a snap and the braking is as smooth or as firm as you want it. I like it to give me a little tug, just so I know the trailer brakes are helping out some......

Warped rotors are a result of high heat. If you have your controller set so you can't really feel the trailer brakes, then you are (IMO) allowing your truck brakes to take up most of the load.

My TT only weighs #4500, and I swear I can stop just about as fast towing the trailer as I can not. Now, I've not actaully tested this, as I don't want everything in the rear of my trailer ending up front, but I know I don't have to apply any more brake pressure on the pedal then I normally do.

When I'm towing my little utility trailer with #1000 in it and another #1000 in the bed, I notice I have to press the pedal more to stop. I can really feel that payload pushing me and my braking distance is increased because of it.

I bet I can stop faster towing my TT then I can towing my util trailer and a load in the bed!

I've not warped my rotors yet, but I've worn out the pads within two years and ~ 30k miles. I just greased the slid pins and replaced the pads and that was about a year ago or so......

Good luck!

 

Dsiemsen;

I have a '98 F150. I once had my rotors turned and they immediately warped after reassembling it and taking it for a test drive. I took it to the dealer and they told me that the factory rotor was not the standard cast iron and that it was pretty much impossible to turn. The person who did turn it for me told me that they were very difficult to turn. I have never tried to turn them since. I simply replace them after about 90,000 kms (55,000 miles). I also tow a camper and have never seen any accelerated brake wear from doing so. I suggest that you skip the attempts at turning and just put new rotors on the truck. GlennMc.

 

I'm not as experienced as some, but here's my $.02
Probably
I set them so I can lock up the trailer brakes when it's empty, then I fine tune it with the trailer loaded.
Buy the Tekonsha Prodegy!!!
http://www.tekonsha.com/#Welcome
Once the rotors are warped, I would replace them instead of trying to turn them.

 

Well sometimes warped rotors are due to undersized brakes or poor materials. my '94 F150 and my brother's '95 F150 both developed warped rotors. No abuse. No riding the brakes. No towing. Just crappy design in my opinion.

 

Thanks, all. I wondered about the controller. I just got what the dealer put on when we bought the trailer, and like so many other things, I'm getting a real education.

What other controllers are you all using?

Peace, Dennis