Removing Leafspring Hangers
Removing Leafspring Hangers
Tomorow I'm lowering my supercab F150 with a 2/4" kit from belltech. This has been a long drawn out project, mostly because my truck is a 7700 model and I had to get with the Belltech and Ford technicians to make sure what stuff would fit.
Thanks everybody who helped me!
I have another quick question.
I am going to buy an air hammer to remove the rivets holding the original leafspring hanger to the frame.
I noticed there are long barrel, heavy duty and standard duty air hammers; which one do I want?
Also which air chisels do I need? Most the hammers come standard with a couple flat bladed chisels and a tapered one for pin removal.
If somebody could tell me which ones to buy I would greatly appreciate it, I'm going today to buy the necessary stuff.
Thanks!
Steve
Thanks everybody who helped me!
I have another quick question.
I am going to buy an air hammer to remove the rivets holding the original leafspring hanger to the frame.
I noticed there are long barrel, heavy duty and standard duty air hammers; which one do I want?
Also which air chisels do I need? Most the hammers come standard with a couple flat bladed chisels and a tapered one for pin removal.
If somebody could tell me which ones to buy I would greatly appreciate it, I'm going today to buy the necessary stuff.
Thanks!
Steve
OMG I am so tired.
I did the 2" front drop springs in a couple hours and it came out perfect.
The back hangers are a total freaking nightmare, just like everybody said.
I grinded about an hour to get the rivet heads flush with the hanger surface on one side. No matter how hard we tried, we could not knock the (now headless) rivets out with an air hammer.
We finally beat the old hanger off with a small sledge, leaving the rivets sticking out of the frame a quarter inch or so. We tried beating the rivets through the frame, no luck, they would just mushroom instead. I was so tempted just to throw the new hanger on and weld it in place.
I was tired but not THAT delirious yet. Besides if I ever wanted to change back to stock height, I would need to be able to put the original hangers back on. The bolts included with the new hanger would be perfect for that.
In the morning I'm going to grind the rivets flush with the frame and try beating them through with a punch or drilling them out.
Then I'll do the other side <groan>.
Latez,
Steve
I did the 2" front drop springs in a couple hours and it came out perfect.
The back hangers are a total freaking nightmare, just like everybody said.
I grinded about an hour to get the rivet heads flush with the hanger surface on one side. No matter how hard we tried, we could not knock the (now headless) rivets out with an air hammer.
We finally beat the old hanger off with a small sledge, leaving the rivets sticking out of the frame a quarter inch or so. We tried beating the rivets through the frame, no luck, they would just mushroom instead. I was so tempted just to throw the new hanger on and weld it in place.
I was tired but not THAT delirious yet. Besides if I ever wanted to change back to stock height, I would need to be able to put the original hangers back on. The bolts included with the new hanger would be perfect for that.
In the morning I'm going to grind the rivets flush with the frame and try beating them through with a punch or drilling them out.
Then I'll do the other side <groan>.
Latez,
Steve
I've done a few lift kits. The easiest way I've found to remove the rivets is to: 1. Slot the rivet head with a cut off saw so it looks like a regular head screw. 2. Use the air chisel with a stardard chisel bit to break the ears off the rivet . 3. Put a pointed punch and the air and push whats left out.
I've never had a problem getting rivets out. Is there something different about the rivets on 97 up F-150's? Do you have a good 100psi + air comperssor and a good quality air chisel?
I've never had a problem getting rivets out. Is there something different about the rivets on 97 up F-150's? Do you have a good 100psi + air comperssor and a good quality air chisel?
We first tried the slot method and then chiseling the heads off, didn't work for us, it just mashed the heads around.
After grinding them flush with the frame most of them could be beaten out with an airhammer.
The others needed to be drilled out first.
We had two excellent dirt track mechanics to help, and it still took a day and a half to get the whole drop kit done. I have seen them put a 350 chevy motor in a factory stock race car in less than an hour and have it on the track. They couldn't believe the time it took to get those hangers off, they were meant to stay on the truck.
That is about the hardest thing I ever had to do on a car or truck.
SteveC
After grinding them flush with the frame most of them could be beaten out with an airhammer.
The others needed to be drilled out first.
We had two excellent dirt track mechanics to help, and it still took a day and a half to get the whole drop kit done. I have seen them put a 350 chevy motor in a factory stock race car in less than an hour and have it on the track. They couldn't believe the time it took to get those hangers off, they were meant to stay on the truck.
That is about the hardest thing I ever had to do on a car or truck.
SteveC
I talked to another guy who used an oxy/acet torch, he said it was easy, just torched the center of the rivets and beat them through.
Looking back, I think the easiest way would be a good sharp drill bit ( a few of them maybe).
Anyway, that's behind me now (thank god).
Now I'm looking at a flip kit or bags, I'll have to bolt the original hangers back on, glad I didn't ruin em.
Looking back, I think the easiest way would be a good sharp drill bit ( a few of them maybe).
Anyway, that's behind me now (thank god).
Now I'm looking at a flip kit or bags, I'll have to bolt the original hangers back on, glad I didn't ruin em.
Glad you got it done.
A good drill bit or two. Drill right in the center of the rivet, and then air chisel, and then a punch. Works like a top. Someone already said that but it is the best way.
Mike
A good drill bit or two. Drill right in the center of the rivet, and then air chisel, and then a punch. Works like a top. Someone already said that but it is the best way.
Mike
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I did the groundforce 2/4 lowering kit on my 97 styleside about 4 months ago.
Luckily I brought it down to the shop and used the oxy/acet. torch. Just flamed off the heads of the rivets, and punched the rest thru with my air hammer.
Granted, it's a dirty/noisey job, (and by far the longest labor part of the drop job), but it is doable. I can't imagine doing it in a driveway, or anywhere but a place with a hoist, etc.
Ya gotta love the look and the handling when you're done, tho, eh?
Luckily I brought it down to the shop and used the oxy/acet. torch. Just flamed off the heads of the rivets, and punched the rest thru with my air hammer.
Granted, it's a dirty/noisey job, (and by far the longest labor part of the drop job), but it is doable. I can't imagine doing it in a driveway, or anywhere but a place with a hoist, etc.
Ya gotta love the look and the handling when you're done, tho, eh?




