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Old Sep 18, 2020 | 02:35 PM
  #1  
Rcbess08's Avatar
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Rear Block Size

Hey guys,
been following this forum for awhile and have just installed a 3” spindle lift and had a question about the rear blocks. Everything was stock prior to the spindle lift (except the wheels) and I’m wanting to level out the rear since it now sits nose high. My question is...what’s the best method of figuring out what size rear blocks I need? Should I measure the gap between the top of the tire to the top of the fender to figure out the difference of height? Or measure the entire wheel from ground up to the fender? I also just mounted 33” tires and was curious what your guys’ experience has been with rubbing and what has worked for you with modifications to limit the rubbing? Thanks guys! (I accidentally posted this in the wrong forum originally)

 
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Old Oct 9, 2020 | 12:19 AM
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tbear853's Avatar
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From: The Shenandoah Valley
Looks level from here.

First you need to measure the OEM blocks between the rear axle and the leaf springs above it. Then add how much you want to add to that. You do not want to run doubled up blocks. If the truck has 2" blocks like my '07 did, if you need an inch more, you want 3" blocks with the right length spring U-bolts.

You might find success with add a leaf kits or over load helper springs.
 
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Old Oct 23, 2020 | 08:42 AM
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Fbird's Avatar
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double block ...depends on if those factory blocks are suspension LIMITERS!...have a big SHELF off to the side that the rubber snubber contacts? if so YES you will need to KEEP THOSE and add XXXX more that you need.UNDER THEM. reason why you ask? If you remove them (they are 2") you NOW have the possibility of bottoming out and severely damaging MANY things as the rear end is NOT designed to have 2" more of travel...without modifications. Double blocking on the FACTORY PIN locating block is common and safe WITH THE CORRECT TYPE OF BLOCK.
Determining "how much"?...I use a floor jack and 4x4. Measure from piece of tape on rear fender to floor.....then use jack under THE BUMPER....till it looks good. measure from tape to floor...subtract original #......thats how much BLOCK you want. Now if you are doing shackles..or hangars .thats different, A 2" hangar lift will give you 1" at the wheel (and change your pinion angle) ...same with shackle.
 
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Old Oct 25, 2020 | 08:03 PM
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From: The Shenandoah Valley
No way I'd run doubled blocks on top of each other unless welded together so as to be one block, and even then I'd be hesitant.

Stacking blocks on top of each other is asking a lot of U-bolts to keep aligned with all the forces they see between braking, torque, & cornering. Like stacking rocks.

My '77 has 3" blocks OEM with the "shelves" to hit the bump stops, I agree the shelves are needed generally. My '07 had 2" blocks with the same shelves.
 

Last edited by tbear853; Oct 25, 2020 at 08:09 PM.
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Old Oct 29, 2020 | 06:59 AM
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correct type of block........would be one that has a locating pin included to locate and align the oem block. The only function of U-bolts is to hold the rearend to the leaf spring. The INCORRECT type of block would be flat with NO pin to align oem block...DEATH TRAP.
 
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