Does anyone on here have any experience installing the Rancho QuickLift front struts? From what I've read and watched, I simply unbolt the upper control arm and unattach the original shock, and just replace it with the QuickLift shock and put everything back together. Simple, right?

Well I've had trouble getting the control arm bolt unhinged because it is corroded over. I've also taken to a shop that said I will have to replace my drop links on both sides because the shock won't have enough room to fit. But I have yet to see this issue with anyone installing these QuickLifts.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. I just want to get these put on and not worry about it anymore.

I have a 2009 Ford F150 XLT RWD

 

You have the P/N's for a 2WD, correct?
It really is straight forward.

2009 F150 2WD

RS999936 (left)
RS999912 (right)
RS999286 (rear)

 

Yes, I did get the RS999912 and RS999936.

I think this biggest problem is the upper control arm bolts are rusted and the nuts aren't really budging. So one guy figured another way to install them is to install new link pins... which I thought sounded bogus because I have yet to hear of anyone needing to replace those when installing QuickLifts.

I think he just wanted an easy way out...

So next question is, what can I do about the rusted control arm bolts? I've sprayed PB Blaster on them, but it didn't help a whole lot. Is there a special oil that can loosen them up?

Thanks for all the replies so far, it really helps clear some stuff up for me.

 

If the bolts are rusted chances are you will destroy them getting them off and end up needing to replace them anyway. See if you can get a longer wrench or breaker bar on there, give yourself some more leverage. Once you disconnect the UCA it really is a piece of cake and as easy as you said. You are talking about the bolts that bolt the UCA to the frame brackets right? I unbolted the UCA from the knuckle at the ball joint, just one bolt.

 

FWIW...

I tried to install mine...I could not get the upper control arm out of the spindle...
Got the nut off, but couldnt get the bolt out...If I had a puller or something it may have come out...I was too afraid to whack the arm/bolt area too hard with my sledge..like the video...

I tried to snake the old strut out to no avail...I ended up tearing the CV Boot...needless to say if the upper control arm would have popped out like the Rancho video, it would have been a pretty easy change...

I ended up having my local Big-O install them...they charged me $ 65/side, and replaced my axle assy at their cost, and installed the new tires at the same time...so, I got a pretty good deal on the install...but, they did screw up the IWE when replacing the axle...I did get that replaced too, but I bought the part, and they did the labor...

 

Once you get it all apart it is easy to do.

 

If the 09 2wd is anything like my 08 2wd, I can easily take the coilovers out without removing the upper control arm. 4wd are the ones that need the extra space up top with the uca removed because the cv axle is in the way at the bottom.

Kcward, if you run into that issue again, tap the top of the spindle with your hammer. It won't hurt it and it'll break the upper ball joint free without damage.

 

Use an impact or long piece of pipe to break free the bolt/nut.
Not sure on the advice of drop links but my gut tells me it is not necessary. As I understand it, the Rancho quicklifts are good for 2" lift and bolt right up no mods necessary. I would highly recommend an alignment after you install however.

 

I installed mine and it helps having a extra jack. Also, when it comes to removing the old assembly and getting the new one in place. I couldn't for the life of me raise the upper control arm to have enough room , so I put a long pry under and through the arm and raised up with one arm and scooted the assembly. If you have a buddy to help its a good thing.
When it comes to setting , I left the backs on 6 and fronts are 3.

 

I just got mine installed at the Ford dealer today and got the front end re-aligned too. Ford won't do a R&R on front struts without an alignment and that makes sense. The camber and toe in had to be adjusted. Total of the install including re-alignment was $308. I had paid $312 for the Ranchos on amazon in September (didn't get to do the install sooner). So the total is around $620 including alignment and tire rotation.
The Ranchos lifted the front end a good bit but the stock back is still about 3/4 inch higher than the front and I don't mind it at all since I pull a 6500 boat/trailer combo in the summer and don't want the rear to be sagging when pulling.
The ride of the Ranchos is PHENOMENAL! Light years better than the stock struts. So much smoother and the wheels are much better controlled (less bounce). I currently have the shocks on setting three and it seems the sweet spot for me but I only drove about 50 miles so far. I have noticed that some people have reported that the Ranchos QuickLifts settle (sag?) a bit over time. That would not be cool. i hope they keep exactly the stance they have today. All in all for the money worth every penny just from a ride comfort perspective. I am also planning to put the rear Ranchos in sometime.

 

I replaced front shocks on my 2006 4x4 recently. I followed the Haynes manual, and all you need to do is remove the tierod end from the steering knuckle. Then you can unbolt the strut(3 on the top, 1 HUGE bolt on the bottom) and it will come out.

Why do you need to remove the upper control arm to steering knuckle bolt? I had enough room without doing that.

However, I did have to remove it for another job, and the upper control arm to steering knuckle bolt is TOUGH to get off. Easiest way to get it off is loosen the nut, spray it with penetrant all over, and use a 2 jaw puller on it. Crank the puller and smack the side of the control arm with a hammer and keep tightening the puller, it will eventually come apart. Worked for me.

 

Maybe with the 4x4 you dont need too. I got a 4x2 and you definitely need too and Rancho install video shows removal as well. Maybe they difference is the 2 or 4wd.
Yeah that nut can be a bitch. I found if you u screw and leave the last 2 threads a wack it with a BFH on the side it'll popped right off. Definitely have another jack under the assembly when you undo the last 2 threads.

 

I'm 2wd. The first time I changed coilovers I removed the uca only because I replaced it. The next time, I didn't remove it and the coilovers easily slide in and out behind it. Maybe it's just when you're installing longer coilovers that pull your uca angle down and give you less room?