Ready to lower with Ford factory pre-drilled shackkles?
#1
09-10-2001, 10:46 PM
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Ready to lower with Ford factory pre-drilled shackkles?
Hi gang!
Looking at my hangers on my 2001 Flareside, just to see if I was going to do the 3/5 lowering job myself, I saw 2 holes in the original hangers.I'm wondering if i can use those holes to lower the front part of my leafsprings and go with the shackles for the rear. I will probably have to cut the hangers in the upperpart to clear the box and drill the frame (8 holes total).
Is there somebody who try that before? The distance between the hole and last rivet is 4 ''.
Does it sound like- nothing but trouble- or a good idea to save money on lowering my truck?
My first plan was to go with an adjustable chassis tech 3/5 .
Advices welcome
Looking at my hangers on my 2001 Flareside, just to see if I was going to do the 3/5 lowering job myself, I saw 2 holes in the original hangers.I'm wondering if i can use those holes to lower the front part of my leafsprings and go with the shackles for the rear. I will probably have to cut the hangers in the upperpart to clear the box and drill the frame (8 holes total).
Is there somebody who try that before? The distance between the hole and last rivet is 4 ''.
Does it sound like- nothing but trouble- or a good idea to save money on lowering my truck?
My first plan was to go with an adjustable chassis tech 3/5 .
Advices welcome
#2
09-13-2001, 12:18 AM
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You're On The Right Track...
Hey Dynoburt: I am getting ready to do the same surgery to my '99 Red Regular cab flareside. I can't wait to see it dropped down. Right now it is still setting up in the air and it bugs me. Looks like a jack rabbit ready to hop down the bunny trail. (Smile)
But when they are lowered just right ... it's an awsome looking truck. Even the guys who only like "lifted suspension" say they like it lowered. But it has to be just the right height to look that way. I think the optimum ride height is 3/5. Not 2/4. But there are those who think they want 4/6.
What method are you going to use to lower your front end? Springs? I think that if you go over a 2" drop in the front, then you are getting into an alignment problem that isn't easily corrected with just a Caster/Camber Bolt kit. But, don't take my word for it ... talk to a professional. Because I have quizzed over a dozen of them. And, I've talked to the local drop-shops.
But, they all agree that if you go over a 2" drop, the better way to do it is with Lower Control Arms with "Lowered Spring Pockets". Using your original front coil springs, in lowered spring pockets, the front end alignment remains exactly the same. The springs are just "sitting' in a hole ... so to speak ... which drops the frame the depth of the pocket. The thing I like about this method is that you retain your original spring-rate and ride ... and you can count on the exact amount of "drop" by measuring the spring pockets. So, I'm going to go that route.
As far as the rear end. I haven't gotten that far yet. Spring hangers have several holes for different amounts of drop. Maybe it depends on what you buy. I know one thing. You need to buy some 2% to 3% Spring-pad Shims to correct the rear-end's angle to the drive shaft. Especially with a 5" drop. So, look into that.
And, of course, you have to install new shorter shocks all the way around, that are designed for a low rider suspension system. Otherwise, you'll bottom out and ruin your shocks right away.
Thanks for your post and tell me what you find out.
But when they are lowered just right ... it's an awsome looking truck. Even the guys who only like "lifted suspension" say they like it lowered. But it has to be just the right height to look that way. I think the optimum ride height is 3/5. Not 2/4. But there are those who think they want 4/6.
What method are you going to use to lower your front end? Springs? I think that if you go over a 2" drop in the front, then you are getting into an alignment problem that isn't easily corrected with just a Caster/Camber Bolt kit. But, don't take my word for it ... talk to a professional. Because I have quizzed over a dozen of them. And, I've talked to the local drop-shops.
But, they all agree that if you go over a 2" drop, the better way to do it is with Lower Control Arms with "Lowered Spring Pockets". Using your original front coil springs, in lowered spring pockets, the front end alignment remains exactly the same. The springs are just "sitting' in a hole ... so to speak ... which drops the frame the depth of the pocket. The thing I like about this method is that you retain your original spring-rate and ride ... and you can count on the exact amount of "drop" by measuring the spring pockets. So, I'm going to go that route.
As far as the rear end. I haven't gotten that far yet. Spring hangers have several holes for different amounts of drop. Maybe it depends on what you buy. I know one thing. You need to buy some 2% to 3% Spring-pad Shims to correct the rear-end's angle to the drive shaft. Especially with a 5" drop. So, look into that.
And, of course, you have to install new shorter shocks all the way around, that are designed for a low rider suspension system. Otherwise, you'll bottom out and ruin your shocks right away.
Thanks for your post and tell me what you find out.
Last edited by Bill Voyles; 09-13-2001 at 12:32 AM.
#3
09-21-2001, 08:08 PM
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see by yourselves, guys ! !
Hi Bill! I agree with you. The look i'm looking for is a 3 / 5. After some searches, i was ready to go with the chassis tech 2'' drop A arm and -1 '' coil springs for the front. For the back,the idea of a ajustable hanger and shackkle sounds ok for me.
My flareside was born with a basic suspension; i mean no h.d. things or trailer tow. pack.Trying to see how i was goig to do the job,i saw that the original hanger (not shackkle like i mention the first time) has a spare hole about 3-4 inches lower .
QUESTION: Did somebody try to lower the truck with that and may be go with a Velvet ride shackkle for the rear part of the leaf springs.
For the shocks it is probably a good thing to go with Doetsch tech. LIke i sais in a post previously,i D like to lower the truck but try to keep it as comfortable as possible.
There is already a big difference riding on Toyo Proxes-ST 275-60-16 instead of firestone 235-70-16.
Advices and better ideas WELCOME !!!
My flareside was born with a basic suspension; i mean no h.d. things or trailer tow. pack.Trying to see how i was goig to do the job,i saw that the original hanger (not shackkle like i mention the first time) has a spare hole about 3-4 inches lower .
QUESTION: Did somebody try to lower the truck with that and may be go with a Velvet ride shackkle for the rear part of the leaf springs.
For the shocks it is probably a good thing to go with Doetsch tech. LIke i sais in a post previously,i D like to lower the truck but try to keep it as comfortable as possible.
There is already a big difference riding on Toyo Proxes-ST 275-60-16 instead of firestone 235-70-16.
Advices and better ideas WELCOME !!!
#4
09-22-2001, 09:58 PM
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Lowering
Hey Guys
About two weeks ago i had my truck lowered with a Hotchkis Performance lowering kit, 2" coils in front and 3" leaf springs in back. 2 degree shims were used with the leaf springs and camber kits were required to get the front end back in alignment. I would like it to be lower but it looks good the way it is. I also installed a Lightning front bumper and that just makes the truck look that much better.
Larry.
About two weeks ago i had my truck lowered with a Hotchkis Performance lowering kit, 2" coils in front and 3" leaf springs in back. 2 degree shims were used with the leaf springs and camber kits were required to get the front end back in alignment. I would like it to be lower but it looks good the way it is. I also installed a Lightning front bumper and that just makes the truck look that much better.
Larry.