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Custom 4x4 mid travel coil over build

Old Feb 2, 2013 | 10:49 PM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by 06yz250f
I'd sell all that crap you have sitting in your room and build this truck up right. You had a good start, I see no reason to start being cheap now.
Listen...
there is no need to bash the "crap" I have, because it's what I wanted and I like it. everybody has there opinion on things so don't go around talking trash about what other people like. I take suggestions and help I need... NOT CRAP!
 
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Old Feb 2, 2013 | 11:00 PM
  #62  
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Originally Posted by pizzaman711
Well that Kenwood definitely won't give you a lot of power, so it definitely won't be that loud. But frankly for the price Kenwood charges, you could have got a quality amp that'll do the same power that the Kenwood will actually do (probably around 300 if it says it does 500) and it would give the sub clean power at least, and probably not over heat all the time, a problem brands like Kenwood, Sony and pioneer are famous for.

No offense, but I'd trust research through forums specifically about car audio over the owner who needs to sell his stock.

And 8k is gonna really cut your visibility as well as blind on coming traffic, check out the sticky's in the illumination forum.
Thanks I really do appreciate your knowledge and I don't take it in an offensive way, I think I'll be happy with my sub woofer for now. And as for the lights I'll leave it be for now and if I don't like it fix my mistake...
again thanks.
 
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Old Feb 2, 2013 | 11:34 PM
  #63  
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Oh the sub is definitely not a mistake, jl makes good stuff, pricey, but still definitely high quality stuff. It's the amp I think you may be disappointed with.

Same with the lights, the output from them is just gonna be lacking compared to stock.
 
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Old Feb 3, 2013 | 01:54 AM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by pizzaman711
Oh the sub is definitely not a mistake, jl makes good stuff, pricey, but still definitely high quality stuff. It's the amp I think you may be disappointed with.

Same with the lights, the output from them is just gonna be lacking compared to stock.
Ok I might look into a different amp in the future
And thanks for the advice.
And about the lights is I was having a problem with seeing at night with my old led projector lights and they didn't reach out far enough and one of my lights were cracked on the lens that's why I got new lights but I got HIDs because they needed to be brighter... is this not going to happen
 
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Old Feb 3, 2013 | 12:21 PM
  #65  
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The best thing you can get as a drop in replacement with no work, would be the depo projectors, they're different than the normal one piece projectors everyone gets off eBay, because they're two piece (one for head, one for signal) like oem. And that with a set of silverstar ultras or another halogen bulb like that.

If you want hids, you really need to do a proper retrofit, check out the illumination section for examples and the retrofitsource for parts. It'll cost you but you'll get really good output. I wouldn't recommended anything over 5k colorwise, it's the closest to white any anything about that your just losing output like crazy and really getting that rice factor with blue or purple headlights. For the fogs either stick with halogens or retrofit them too, again probably wouldn't go over 4k if you put in hids, above that your defeating their purpose.
 
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Old Feb 4, 2013 | 01:49 AM
  #66  
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For your lighting, go with either the Depo projectors like pizzaman suggested or the L reps that Depo sells. I have the L replicas on mine and paired with the silverstar ultras I was more than pleased with the output. I like many others on here at one time had those same one piece projectors like you have and like you've found out they are horrible! If you want good clean light without the glare skip those drop in hids that you bought and do what I suggested.
 
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Old Feb 10, 2013 | 05:43 PM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by pizzaman711
The best thing you can get as a drop in replacement with no work, would be the depo projectors, they're different than the normal one piece projectors everyone gets off eBay, because they're two piece (one for head, one for signal) like oem. And that with a set of silverstar ultras or another halogen bulb like that.

If you want hids, you really need to do a proper retrofit, check out the illumination section for examples and the retrofitsource for parts. It'll cost you but you'll get really good output. I wouldn't recommended anything over 5k colorwise, it's the closest to white any anything about that your just losing output like crazy and really getting that rice factor with blue or purple headlights. For the fogs either stick with halogens or retrofit them too, again probably wouldn't go over 4k if you put in hids, above that your defeating their purpose.
Ok I see what you mean, I got these on piece projectors off of carid for 450.00$ and I got the HIDs in 8000k because I just wanted a little blue tint. But I will get the two piece some time later...
and thank you for your advice
 
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Old Feb 10, 2013 | 05:51 PM
  #68  
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Ok so I know I haven't posted a update in a while so...
we have taken the fenders off to be able to get back to do some welding and start fabricating the cross bar and after that is done we will take everything off and send everything off to powder coating. So it's coming along, just very slow. But we are getting close so hang in there.
And iv got a cool surprise that I'm adding on the truck that has already been fabricated I just have to powder coat it as well...
 
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Old Feb 18, 2013 | 06:30 PM
  #69  
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So we are getting very close to being done and most of the welding is done...
But meanwhile I just ordered a roof rack from defender racks and I have a question. The brackets for the roof to bolt on the rack with is out of stock and I think that's a good thing anyhow because they don't look very stable so does anybody have suggestions to putting this on. I'm going to be putting my spare tire up there, so it definitely needs to be strong.
 
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Old Feb 19, 2013 | 12:37 AM
  #70  
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Send Boomer a message. I believe he still has a roof rack on his truck.
 
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Old Mar 1, 2013 | 07:45 PM
  #71  
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Ok here is an update.
So we have put the base coat of anti rust coating on the frame and even though it looks awful right now it will look great when we put the undercoating on it. We also starting modifying the actual diff and cross member to move it forward and got the first urethane bushings in. We are also waiting on the strut tower bar to come back from the bender.
 
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Old Mar 14, 2013 | 07:16 PM
  #72  
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Were are getting very close to getting this done and yes it's taken over 4 months now, So hang in there.
They have spot welded the diff bracket 3 times now trying to get it right but finally got it the way he wants it.
So he has also came up with a way to mount the strut tower cross bar to the coil bucket by making a round piece out of quarter inch steel plate to match the top of the strut bucket and he is going weld the extension bar to the round plate then the bar will be bolted by 2 bolts to the main cross bar over the engine. It's all going to be made to be able to be unbolted if I need to pull the engine. I made a really rough sketch of what it might look like just to give you an idea.




and give me a shout to let me know your still here Huh!
 
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Old Mar 14, 2013 | 07:32 PM
  #73  
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Is he gonna gusset around where the bar mounts to the coil over plate? They're needed more there than up top along the hoop.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2013 | 12:05 AM
  #74  
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Originally Posted by pizzaman711
Is he gonna gusset around where the bar mounts to the coil over plate? They're needed more there than up top along the hoop.
I'm going by there tomorrow and I'll ask him what he is going to do.
I'll get back to you on that tomorrow
 
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Old May 8, 2013 | 09:05 PM
  #75  
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So sorry I haven't posted any updates lately, but things have been crazy.
All the welding is pretty much finished and we just need to smooth out some of the welds. Got the strut tower back from the bender and it's complete and we also added another support tube to the base plate.

 
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