Can anybody tell me how to get the lower control arm bolts out? I've been wailing the snot out them with a sledge for 6 hrs now and the f'n things will not budge !! I now have 12 holes in my fender from a hammer, don't need anymore!! Thanks.

 

HAHAHAHA...dude..I just went through this EXACT same problem when I was installing my 6" BDS lift. I got 3 out of 4 bolts out and the last one would not budge. It was seized inside the bushing on the metal sleeve. We had to get an Acetylene torch and heat the head of the bolt and then use the air gun set to 180psi and go reverse then forward then reverse and then forward. Just watch the bushing and make sure you dont rip the bolt from the bushing. You will see it twist and then just spray some PB-Blaster on the bolt and just keep hitting it with the air gun. That is the only thing that worked for me. Spent a good 45 minutes just going at it and it finally came out. We wrecked the bushing a little but it seems to be fine.

We took a trip to an install shop and they had the same horror story and they were the ones that told us to just keep working the bolt back and forth. Eventually it should come out. Dont break it or torch it off unless you wanna pay $75 from ford for a new one. (Yes, we called and they said 75 freaking dollars since it is a cam bolt and grade 8).

I hadnt heard any problems about this before when I was researching installing my lift and stuff and this was the sole problem I ran into installing the lift on my truck. Took an extra 4-5hrs monkey-ing around with it before we could continue. SUCKED. But on the brightside, everything came out great.

Good luck. And sorry for this being so long but I was just glad (not really, I feel your pain) to see someone else with this exact problem I had 5 days ago.

GOOD LUCK!!!

 

I had the same problem, ended up having to use a torch to get them out( and lots of elbow geese) then had to drill out the inside of the eye to get all the buildup of gunk and rust out so the bolts would go in easily and not lock up. Was a total PITA

 

FYI

For 2004-2008 (maybe other models compatible as well), the lower control arm bolts are part number 7L3Z3B236A and cost about $75 per bolt. You need 4 of them if they all are stuck, mine were.

Or, you can use Moog part number K80087, which is a kit that includes 2 bolts and associated hardware to do one side of your truck. I bought two of these kits off amazon for $64 shipped, which will take care of all 4 bolts.

Or, if you're interested in an upgrade, use this kit which is what the Raptor guys use. its grade 12.9 hardware and is much beefier than the stock or Moog options and runs about $150 for two kits (1 kit per side, 2 bolts in each kit):
http://www.spcalignment.com/componen...AFrom&to=USATo

More info on these bolts and alignments can be found here:
http://www.f150forum.com/f38/alignment-kit-270740/

 

I guess I was mixed up .... I just looked up the 7L3Z3B236A bolts, they have the cam washers. My '07's are just plain old big bolts?

I see now that y'all are talking about these at $75 each .... I thought y'all were talking replacing the plain headed ones like on mine.
So .... yeah, the cheaper aftermarket kits for all 4 would be the way to go.

My bad!

 

I don't understand what you're saying.

If your lower control arm bolts are seized and have to be cut out, you need new bolts.

New bolts from ford are going to cost you $300+

Or you can buy even the "expensive" SPC kit with beefed up hardware and plates that hold your alignment for $150.

You would have to remove your lower control arm bolts if you need to replace your lower control arms and/or the lower control arm bushings due to wear or age.

 

I think he may be thinking about the camber kits.

 

I've heard this works good. Otherwise you are going to have to drill it or cut it out.
Good luck.

http://www.boltbusterinc.com/

 

It BETTER work good for 550 bucks!!!!

 

in the process of going through the same think on my 2004 F150.

Moog now makes caster/camber bolt kits for these trucks.

Moog part # K100350



is a greaseable so that it wont bind up to the bushing again
http://www.fme-cat.com/overlays/part...2FCamber%20Kit

$40 at Rock auto:



Rock auto also carries about 10 other sets from different manufacturers

 

I wouldn't recommend purchasing a 300 dollar pair of bolts. What would be in your best interest, is to probably buy new lower control arms that come with the bolts. you can find some cheap ones on ebay or rock auto for 150. FOR BOTH!

 

I would hope that this has been solved - this thread is 6 years old.

 

 

Guys,
I feel your pain. I beat on mine for hours, PB blasted it over night. Beat on it some more the next morning... to no avail. So.... What I did was cut the bolt out with a cutting wheel from both sides of the bushing, didn't care if I buggered up the bushing I was replacing the whole control arm. For the replacement bolt I went to Tractor supply and bought a grade 8 5/8" x 6" bolt, bought a Teflon lock nut added 4 flat washers to the bolt head end to give clearance from the stabilizer bracket bolt. Once I took it to the shop for the wheel alignment, I ask the tech if what I did was OK, Because I really didn't want to spend $70 on a bolt. (mind blowing) Bolt, Nut and washers $3.57 much better.) The shop had run into this several times for repairs. To quote the head tech "that is exactly what we do here".

Good luck Gents I hope this helps you, and believe me I tried everything that all the forums were suggesting.

 

QUOTE=kuntre;5238985] … etc … For the replacement bolt I went to Tractor supply and bought a grade 8 5/8" x 6" bolt, bought a Teflon lock nut added 4 flat washers to the bolt head end to give clearance from the stabilizer bracket bolt. Once I took it to the shop for the wheel alignment.[/QUOTE]

Good thinking. Some of them bolts ain't near as special as the price they carry would suggest. I'f trust a round grade 8 there more than one with flats that might make life easier at alignment time but also weaken the bolt.