2wd or 4wd?

I know this worked on my 2wd to diagnose my major front end issue (still have a few minors to straighten out)
Jack the front end and support with jack stands so both front wheels are off the ground.
At the driver side wheel grab at 12 and 6 position (think of a clock face) push in at the top, push in at the bottom. Watch suspension and steering linkage. Did anything move? Did you feel any play in the hub?
Do the same at 3 and 9.
Then do the same on the passenger side.

When I checked my passenger side it moved a whole heck of alot. The tie rod was shot! I put a new inner, outer and sleeve which fixed 95% of the movement. Ball joints and the rest of the steering linkage is next when I have funds.

 

This is more than likely tie rods. Ball joints give some nasty squeaks and pops and a little bit of uncertainty, but not like the tie rods. I'm just finishing up dealing with these same issues myself. Turns out both tie rod ends were bad and my passenger side lower control arms is worn out, so the ball joint doesn't sit as firmy as it should, so it has some play and doesn't ride too well.

 

Well, I did mine on Saturday. It took about 5 hours and that was with a lunch break and several trips to the fridge. even though I was warned, I didn't make sure to get the correct press kit. Or at least the one I got didn't work. It was fine for pressing out the old *****, but the cups were too tall to get the new ones in. We had to make our own cup out of a 3" pipe. Problem solved.

So far, so good. I need to get an alignment this week.

Thanks for all the tips!

 

I had the excact same probablem when i was doing mine and that's what I was Fixin to do till my dad came with a big pipe wrench, you can open it up wide and use it as a spacer to get it started and then u can get the original supplied pipe on it but u got it done and that's what counts!

 

I think I'll be doing my lower ***** joints as well. I have 110K miles on my 05 4x4 Screw. 90k on the RCD 6" lift. First time tackling steering and suspension. Off Road Warehouse conducted a "free" suspension check and determined lower ball joints needed replaced and that was all. $508.00 and that included the Moog lower ball joints and alignment. I thought that was extremely high, which I am sure you'all agree. Besides the ball joints, what else might I replace as long as I am down there and in pieces. Let me know whatya think...

 

When you replace control arm bushings (new bushings are in the new control arm) you MUST tighten everything down with the arm at ride height.

I know a PIA. but the bushings COULD be causing your noise. If that is not the source of your noise at least they will last longer.

Check for loose calipers, and or wheel bearings.

 

$508 is a little steep for just 2 of the ball joints... call it $100 for the 2 lowers, +$60 for alignment.. that leaves you at over $300 for labor.

Personally, I'd say if you're going to be down there, do all 4 of the ball joints. Its not a matter of if they go bad, but when. Also, if you haven't already, new shocks never hurt. If you're really looking to shell out money, upgrade to some Moog tie rods (or at least tie rod ends). The Fords are kinda notorious for tie rods. Finally, maybe sway bar bushings (they're easy)...

Good luck!

 

Thanks for posting this!

Went to my local Firestone for an alignment because the inside of my driver side front tire was wearing away and it turned out my upper ball joints were bad. I'll have to take it home and jack it up to confirm. Anyways they wanted about $500 for the work which wasn't too bad.

I figured since they're gonna be in there to go ahead and replace the lower ball joints and the price jumped to $1000! This was over the phone so I could see the parts/labor printout but I'm going to have to assume they're replacing the entire lower control arm.

I'll have to run by there later and see what the run down is. If it's much over $500 the I'm just gonna do the work myself and use Moog parts.

EDIT: Yup, best he could do was $800 for upper control arms and lower ball joints with alignment. Just ordered the parts from Rockauto.com. Guess I'm working on the truck this weekend instead of yardwork.

 

I posted on here about a rattling noise and a popping noise from the drivers side front end.
Also had a real bad camber on the drivers side front tire. Had the struts replaced, eccentric kits installed and alignment done. Still had the popping sound occurring and the mechanic assured me it wasn't ball joints.

For grins jacked her up today and found both calipers to be loose. I have to snug down the mounting bolts on both. The drivers side was the loosest and made the exact rattling sound I hear when driving. Pretty sure that took care of the rattling.The popping only occurs at low speeds as far as i can tell and it can be with the wheel turned or stationary. Visual inspection did not show rubbing of any moving parts, split boots, or cracked bushing in the linkage.

Tie rods look OK as do the threads. Dropping her off again tonight for further troubleshooting.

 

Dropped her off yesterday to finally get this rattling sound taken care of. As i mentioned the drivers side was horrendous even after having new strut/shocks, eccentric kit and alignment done. In fact it got worse. Some thought it was the spring not seated correctly. Turns out the mechanic did not torque down the lower control arm bolts and one of the bolts on the strut assembly . He was honest with me and apologized for the oversight and made it right for me. NO MORE RATTLE OR SQUEAK!!!!!
Just a happy update