Ball Joints
Well I just got the phone call. I need all 4 of mine replaced.
I'll be doing it myself but my question is, what's the highest quality ball joints out there?
As you can see, I've got some extra stuff on the truck that the Ford engineers didn't account for so if I can get some over engineered ones I'd be better off.
Shirley,(lol) there is something better than Moog out there.
I'll be doing it myself but my question is, what's the highest quality ball joints out there?
As you can see, I've got some extra stuff on the truck that the Ford engineers didn't account for so if I can get some over engineered ones I'd be better off.
Shirley,(lol) there is something better than Moog out there.
Well, I was searching for info on here because I also went for an alignment after getting new wheels and found out my lower ***** are shot. Uppers look to be fine, but after seeing StoveTops info on RockAuto, I decided to replace upper arms and lowers all at once. $187 with shipping. Local shops wanted $110 each for upper arms. I got a quote for like $800 to do the job at a local alignment shop. So, never done this before, but I'm going to give it a try.
Just wanted to say thanks for those that offered advice. I'll let you know how it goes.
Just wanted to say thanks for those that offered advice. I'll let you know how it goes.
make sure if you rent the ball joint press to also make sure you get the correct press cups for the truck ball joints, most of the time it is another free kit to rent... The funny cups for little car ball joints won't work.
Jack up the truck so the wheel is off the ground. Take a large pry bar, place it under the wheel and pry the tire up. If it moves, the ball joint is bad. Assuming you don't pry hard enough to compress the spring.
For uppers; grab the top of the tire and try to move it toward the truck, watch for movement at the upper ball joint. If it has slop, bad joint.
For uppers; grab the top of the tire and try to move it toward the truck, watch for movement at the upper ball joint. If it has slop, bad joint.
Sweet!
Jack up the truck so the wheel is off the ground. Take a large pry bar, place it under the wheel and pry the tire up. If it moves, the ball joint is bad. Assuming you don't pry hard enough to compress the spring.
For uppers; grab the top of the tire and try to move it toward the truck, watch for movement at the upper ball joint. If it has slop, bad joint.
For uppers; grab the top of the tire and try to move it toward the truck, watch for movement at the upper ball joint. If it has slop, bad joint.
Alright guys I ended up doing this myself with the help of my dad (mechanic of 25+yrs) upper and lower bj all replaced. For the uppers you have to replace the whole arm if factory. Went with Moog brand parts, and I through in a new tie rod for good measure, my right front was wore out. So today I make the first turn that goes ALL the way to the right and I hear like a grinding/popping noise coming from what feels like the drivers side front. Any ideas of what this could be?
Alright guys I ended up doing this myself with the help of my dad (mechanic of 25+yrs) upper and lower bj all replaced. For the uppers you have to replace the whole arm if factory. Went with Moog brand parts, and I through in a new tie rod for good measure, my right front was wore out. So today I make the first turn that goes ALL the way to the right and I hear like a grinding/popping noise coming from what feels like the drivers side front. Any ideas of what this could be?
Supposing you got an alignment id say cv joint,
...not sure, but by the looks of the truck, I think its 2wd. Did you remove your calipers to get to the components? I'd check your brakes rubbing on the rotor. It so hard to troubleshoot noises over the internet...
Last edited by StoveTop; Mar 1, 2011 at 03:53 PM.
What have you done to troubleshoot the issue?
Any signs of rubbing? Does the grinding increase with speed? How about a visual? Pics of the underside, while the wheel is cranked could help.
"Grinding" is caused by rubbing. If it increases with speed, then its rotational. It it were me, I'd put it on jack stands and start removing stuff:
Wheels, brakes, then rotor. Check for rubbing, check all parts, reinstall properly. Check to make sure your pads are properly seated and be sure to check out your bearings for unusual wear.
Where's your dad? Shoot, if my dad were a mechanic I wouldnt waste my time posting here...
just a quick question guys,
are there any driveablilty issues expierienced with bad ball joints? such as "wandering" on the freeway and shudder sounds and feelings in the steering wheel when hitting minor bumps on the road @ about 30 mph?
ive already gotten all the info i need for if i need to change the BJ thanks to all the great info on this site...
now i need a diagnosis
sry to hijack the thread
are there any driveablilty issues expierienced with bad ball joints? such as "wandering" on the freeway and shudder sounds and feelings in the steering wheel when hitting minor bumps on the road @ about 30 mph?
ive already gotten all the info i need for if i need to change the BJ thanks to all the great info on this site...
now i need a diagnosis
sry to hijack the thread
TO tyebo168
this to me sounds like a wheel bearing issue ... this may or may not be the issue since arose after u replaced the Bj's .... but the grinding popping noise is definately what i had dealt with for about 3 months
replaced the entire rotor and it was gone
replaced the entire rotor and it was gone
Last edited by cmolina07; Mar 2, 2011 at 04:24 PM.


