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Old Feb 2, 2010 | 01:39 PM
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BiLL-E's Avatar
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lift without cutting

does anyone make a lift that doesnt require cutting?
 
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Old Feb 2, 2010 | 01:58 PM
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skyjacker
 
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Old Feb 2, 2010 | 04:26 PM
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Bill, Do you have 2 or 4 wheel drive? All the 4WD suspension lifts I’ve seen require minor cutting for front differential clearance.
 
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Old Feb 2, 2010 | 05:30 PM
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ahhh good call keeks
 
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Old Feb 2, 2010 | 06:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Keeks
Bill, Do you have 2 or 4 wheel drive? All the 4WD suspension lifts I’ve seen require minor cutting for front differential clearance.
Yah even the skyjacker lift does require minor cutting.
 
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Old Feb 2, 2010 | 09:04 PM
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If you check out where the front drive shaft comes down then you will see why you would have to cut the cross member. When you drop the front axle the drive shaft runs right into the cross member.

The only kit that might work would be a JD fabrication long travel kit. That kit requires a whole lot of other stuff to work well and would run north of 6K just for the front. It does not use a drop bracket.
 
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Old Feb 2, 2010 | 10:40 PM
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I was a little nervous about making the cut at first, but that feeling quickly passed! It's worth it, as stated it's minor. The only thing that attaches to the cut off piece is the stock crossmember. Keep the piece that is cut off, some on here have welded it back on to go back to stock.
 
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Old Feb 3, 2010 | 11:38 AM
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you can go back to stock with out any welds. The cut in the cross member is simply for clearence, and leaves it plenty strong.

If you don't cut enough, under load the diff angles down. This will bring the front driveshaft in contact with the sway bar. Under load, when you accelerate you will either he a horrible "whack whack whack" sound. Or it will be severe enough to cause it to bind. If it binds.... something's got to give. I would bet money on the CV or U joint.

The cutting is very minimal and doesn't effect the ride, the strength, or anything else about the truck. Once returned to stock, no one would know unless they threw it up on a lift.

If it is still a concern, then I would look into a more simple leveling kit. Allows you to run larger tires, without the expense or cutting that comes with the lift.
 
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Old Feb 3, 2010 | 12:00 PM
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Originally Posted by MercedesTech
you can go back to stock with out any welds. The cut in the cross member is simply for clearence, and leaves it plenty strong.
Not sure that's possible unless you're suggesting to not bolt the stock crossmember back in place? Just wondering because the part that is cut includes two mounting holes for the removable crossmember.
 
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Old Feb 3, 2010 | 01:58 PM
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Originally Posted by VTHokieF150
Not sure that's possible unless you're suggesting to not bolt the stock crossmember back in place? Just wondering because the part that is cut includes two mounting holes for the removable crossmember.
you may be correct. It's been awhile since I've done one of these installs.

:o

My apologies. Guess I gotta shrug some of the rust off!
 
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Old Feb 3, 2010 | 02:20 PM
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it all depends on the year of the vehicle and amount of lift. I have a 1998 4x4 with the rcx 5 inch kit and there was no cutting involved at all and my front driveshaft does not come in contact with anything.
 
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Old Feb 3, 2010 | 02:35 PM
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Originally Posted by 97f1504x4jim
it all depends on the year of the vehicle and amount of lift.
Very true! The OP never mentioned what year his truck is or anything else about it. I guess we all assumed an 04-08 4wd since he mentioned cutting.

I just downloaded the Fabtech installation instructions for the '09+ F150 4wd and it appears you have to cut the same piece plus a mount off the differential housing.
 
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