Big-time LCA problems!
Big-time LCA problems!
I'm doing my ball joints and am having a couple big hold-ups.
First off, the torsion bars are siezed in the lower control arm. Tried heat/hammers - no joy. I got them out of the truck as an assembly, but now have two six foot long anchors if I can't seperate them.
Next problem: How will I get the knuckle onto the LCA when the space between the lower ball stud socket and the steel shroud around the CV is too small for the LCA with the new ball joint installed? I actually had to sawsall the old studs to get the knuckle off.
The manual says it all goes together in a few easy steps and does not mention what I am encountering.
All help is appreciated.
First off, the torsion bars are siezed in the lower control arm. Tried heat/hammers - no joy. I got them out of the truck as an assembly, but now have two six foot long anchors if I can't seperate them.
Next problem: How will I get the knuckle onto the LCA when the space between the lower ball stud socket and the steel shroud around the CV is too small for the LCA with the new ball joint installed? I actually had to sawsall the old studs to get the knuckle off.
The manual says it all goes together in a few easy steps and does not mention what I am encountering.
All help is appreciated.
you should have removed the torsion bars before removing the lower control arm. if you have not yet pulled both sides, beat the **** out of the other torsion bar through the access hole in the front of the LCA. beat it forward and out with a steel stake and a sledgehammer.
I'm not following your other problem w/ the knuckle. please explain better.
I'm not following your other problem w/ the knuckle. please explain better.
Do I have to remove the hub and CV shaft, boot and shroud from the knuckle to get enough clearance for the LCA and ball joint to be installed?
the cv joint may have to come out, i'm not exactly sure on the clearance you require for the ball joint r+r, i haven't actually done mine yet. my experience w/ the front end comes from performing a suspension lift install, which required total teardown and reassembly of the front end.
cv shaft removal is as simple as removing the big axle nut (35-36mm socket), and unbolting the shaft from the front pumpkin. it'll then come right out as one unit.
i don't think its necessary to remove the hub or wheel seal from the steering knuckle. that stupid rotor splash guard shield may have to come off, i don't know. don't worry if you trash it trying to get it off. its not even strictly necessary.
cv shaft removal is as simple as removing the big axle nut (35-36mm socket), and unbolting the shaft from the front pumpkin. it'll then come right out as one unit.
i don't think its necessary to remove the hub or wheel seal from the steering knuckle. that stupid rotor splash guard shield may have to come off, i don't know. don't worry if you trash it trying to get it off. its not even strictly necessary.
For the first problem, I took both LCAs with the torsion bars attatched to the local Ford dealer service shop and told them to seperate them and change the ball joints with the ones I supplied. I am waiting for their phone call of success.
The second problem was solved (from the advice of minimonster17) by purchasing a 36" long 3/4"drive crack bar and a 36MM socket and driving the CV shaft out of the hub with a small puller. This will give plenty of room for installing the LCA with the new ball joints installed.
Thanks,
Krash.
The second problem was solved (from the advice of minimonster17) by purchasing a 36" long 3/4"drive crack bar and a 36MM socket and driving the CV shaft out of the hub with a small puller. This will give plenty of room for installing the LCA with the new ball joints installed.
Thanks,
Krash.
its technically not entirely necessary to remove the torsion bars from the LCA's to replace the ball joints. if necessary, reinstall the lower control arms w/ the torsion bars still in them.
it is recommended that you replace the cv joint castle nut cotter pin upon reassembly.
it is recommended that you replace the cv joint castle nut cotter pin upon reassembly.
So, Ford couldn't get torsion bars out and told me to take them to another shop - Ford gave up finding a solution for Ford components.
I was awake in the middle of the night and it dawned on me, "Why don't I just unbolt the cross-member that houses the adjusters and slide it back, then install the LCA with the torsion bars installed? Then I can hold the adjusters up in the cross-member and slide it back in place. Two and a half hours -no muss, no fuss.
I also removed the outer end of the CV shaft to gain clearance for the ball stud. It requires a 36mm socket FYI.
I took the time to clean the octagonal ends and adjusters and lubed them with anti-sieze so I won't need a sledge hammer to dissassemble next time.
I was awake in the middle of the night and it dawned on me, "Why don't I just unbolt the cross-member that houses the adjusters and slide it back, then install the LCA with the torsion bars installed? Then I can hold the adjusters up in the cross-member and slide it back in place. Two and a half hours -no muss, no fuss.
I also removed the outer end of the CV shaft to gain clearance for the ball stud. It requires a 36mm socket FYI.
I took the time to clean the octagonal ends and adjusters and lubed them with anti-sieze so I won't need a sledge hammer to dissassemble next time.
Trending Topics
that is what i was getting at. just so you know, this is the correct way of removing the torsion bars, assuming the control arms are still in the truck:
unbolt the adjuster nuts, and completely unbolt the torsion bar crossmember from the frame.
look inside the lower control arm: there is an access hole for the torsion bar. beat the **** out of it, knock it forward and out w/ a steel stake and a sledgehammer.
unbolt the adjuster nuts, and completely unbolt the torsion bar crossmember from the frame.
look inside the lower control arm: there is an access hole for the torsion bar. beat the **** out of it, knock it forward and out w/ a steel stake and a sledgehammer.
Basically, I had to disregard everything the manual said and do it in my own order.


