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Shocks: Rancho 9000XLS or Bilstein 5100?

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Old Aug 11, 2009 | 11:32 AM
  #16  
fordmaster's Avatar
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Recently when installing my Bilsteins I had seen on here there was some difference of opinion as to boot up or down. My mechanic and I discovered 2 small vent holes in the boot near the boot end mount to drain moisture out of boot so definitely boot DOWN. Yours should be like that too.
 
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Old Aug 11, 2009 | 08:58 PM
  #17  
jdruzik's Avatar
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From: Glide, OR
Galaxy & fordmaster, the rear can be mounted either way. I chose this direction in order to access the adjustment control. It's much easier this way...
 

Last edited by jdruzik; Aug 11, 2009 at 09:09 PM.
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Old Aug 12, 2009 | 01:42 AM
  #18  
Galaxy's Avatar
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Originally Posted by fordmaster
Recently when installing my Bilsteins I had seen on here there was some difference of opinion as to boot up or down. My mechanic and I discovered 2 small vent holes in the boot near the boot end mount to drain moisture out of boot so definitely boot DOWN. Yours should be like that too.
I completely agree with boot down/body up! But it's got nothing to do with the drain holes in the boot...I don't use boots! My theory, and confirmed this with some other people is this...the rod (boot) end of the shock is much much stronger and tougher than the body of a shock. You want the body up because this puts it up further out of harms way. It'll take a lot to bend, much less break that shaft but one good dent in the body and it's done. Now yes, we're talking serios off roading here and the average street truck will never have this issue, but...

Plus look around at these bad *** baha/serious off road trucks and see how the vast majority of them run their shocks...body up and no boots.

Boots trap water and sand and gunk. They are aestetic and serve no mechanical or protective purpose on that hardened stainless rod. Gunk on the rod won't even damage a sealcause any quality shock will have a scraper ring who's sole purpose in life is to clean off that rod before dirt gets to a seal.

Your adjustment *** may be easy to get to, but now it's right in the line of fire from crap off the front wheels.

If it matters, look at Ranchos thought process...my '02 rear shock can't be mounted either way, eye on one end and rod on the other. Guess which way the 9000's for my truck are designed...body up! Same with my current Edelbrocks. I will admit that I think the 5100's for my truck are built body down however which simply means I'll never own a set.
 

Last edited by Galaxy; Aug 12, 2009 at 01:48 AM.
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Old Aug 12, 2009 | 02:39 PM
  #19  
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My rancho quicklifts were NOT height adjustable, they lift the truck 1-2.5 inches depending on which application you are using them for, ie. which make/model. However they do have 9 settings i believe to adjust the dampening. The bilsteins to my belief are height adjustable but have no control to adjust the dampening.
 
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Old Aug 13, 2009 | 11:05 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by mishka
My rancho quicklifts were NOT height adjustable, .... However they do have 9 settings i believe to adjust the dampening. The bilsteins to my belief are height adjustable but have no control to adjust the dampening.
That is correct. Both front and rear Rancho shocks are damening adjustable, but only the Bilstein fronts are height adjustable. The rear is adjusted with bocks and shackles. Rancho 9000s at their firmest setting are more firm than Bilstein 5100.

Bilstein is a monotube, I believe Rancho 9000s are twin tube. I drove with Rancho 9000s set on 7 for 50,000 miles and appreciated them every mile.

I've had the Bilstein 5100s for one day, and I do think they are a better shock than the Rancho. I would get the Rancho again. I like them both.
 
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Old Aug 14, 2009 | 01:09 AM
  #21  
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I think we're splittin hairs here...the Rancho Quick Lift shocks DO lift the front end. You're just saying you can't select "how much" lift as in the case of the 5100's.
 
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Old Aug 14, 2009 | 05:11 AM
  #22  
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From: Wisconsin
Yes.
 
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Old Aug 16, 2009 | 02:20 PM
  #23  
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From: Wisconsin
Bilstein 5100 front coil over shock can be set at normal ride height, raised 1" or raised 2". There are three grooves in the shock body. You pick which groove to put the snap ring (circlip) in. That will determine the height of the spring seat. You can see the top groove above the spring seat in this picture or in this diagram or you can see in this article.

This 4x2 shock is mounted on a 4x4 truck. The body of the shock is 1" shorter so the spring seat sits 1" lower, which is normal 4x2 height. If you raise the circlip to the middle groove then the spring seat holder will sit at normal 4x4 height.



Bilstein 5100 rear shock does not have multiple setting, but will work in a range of heights from normal height to 2" lift. Here is a 4x2 shock in a 4x4 truck equal to a 2" lift for the shock.



Take the 2" block out and the shock is working at normal height for a 4x2, but a 2" drop for a 4x4. Height is controlled by the block height. Here is the same shock on the same truck with the 2" block removed.



You could say that a 4x4 comes stock with a 1" lift in the front, and 2" lift in the rear, but we call that normal ride height for a 4x4.
 

Last edited by greencrew; Aug 16, 2009 at 08:07 PM. Reason: Better picture
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Old Aug 16, 2009 | 02:27 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Galaxy
I completely agree with boot down/body up! But it's got nothing to do with the drain holes in the boot...I don't use boots! My theory, and confirmed this with some other people is this...the rod (boot) end of the shock is much much stronger and tougher than the body of a shock. You want the body up because this puts it up further out of harms way. It'll take a lot to bend, much less break that shaft but one good dent in the body and it's done. Now yes, we're talking serios off roading here and the average street truck will never have this issue, but...

Plus look around at these bad *** baha/serious off road trucks and see how the vast majority of them run their shocks...body up and no boots.

Boots trap water and sand and gunk. They are aestetic and serve no mechanical or protective purpose on that hardened stainless rod. Gunk on the rod won't even damage a sealcause any quality shock will have a scraper ring who's sole purpose in life is to clean off that rod before dirt gets to a seal.

Your adjustment *** may be easy to get to, but now it's right in the line of fire from crap off the front wheels.

If it matters, look at Ranchos thought process...my '02 rear shock can't be mounted either way, eye on one end and rod on the other. Guess which way the 9000's for my truck are designed...body up! Same with my current Edelbrocks. I will admit that I think the 5100's for my truck are built body down however which simply means I'll never own a set.
YOU won't own a set of 5100 because the Bilstein engineers built them wrong?? Thats pretty sweet.
 
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Old Aug 16, 2009 | 07:22 PM
  #25  
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From: Northern Utah
I priced the Rancho Quick Lift, just for the front was $373.00 I can get the Bilsteins Front and Rear for about $450.00, I'm leaning towards the Bilsteins.
 
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Old Aug 21, 2009 | 11:51 AM
  #26  
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They are both a great option, however the Bilsteins tend to be cheaper. The one incentive right now for the Ranchos are if you buy any combination of the quick LIFT or 9000XLs (4 of them), they are giving a wireless controller away for free with proof of purchase after a mail in rebate.

You can read the details here - https://www.f150online.com/forums/su...promotion.html.
 
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Old Aug 22, 2009 | 12:04 PM
  #27  
Galaxy's Avatar
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Originally Posted by fordmaster
YOU won't own a set of 5100 because the Bilstein engineers built them wrong?? Thats pretty sweet.
Oh, sorry. That was not my implication if you took it that way...my bad. I'm simply saying I much preferr a shock mounted body up. It's a function and looks thing for me. That's all. We all know that shock performs top notch.

Greencrew...in one of your pics you have the same rear shock mounted on a 2 and a 4WD...don't you have to worry about the shock being too short for the 2WD? I know that block is small and we're not talking a lot of lift but you risk the shock bottoming out before the suspension does. Not good. Does Bilstein list the same part numbers for both? I guess with like only 2" difference, you probably could make one shock that would work on both. Just thinking outloud
 
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Old Aug 23, 2009 | 03:48 PM
  #28  
greencrew's Avatar
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From: Wisconsin
Originally Posted by Galaxy
Greencrew...in one of your pics you have the same rear shock mounted on a 2 and a 4WD...don't you have to worry about the shock being too short for the 2WD? I know that block is small and we're not talking a lot of lift but you risk the shock bottoming out before the suspension does. Not good. Does Bilstein list the same part numbers for both? I guess with like only 2" difference, you probably could make one shock that would work on both. Just thinking outloud
That is why I used that shock. It has a range of use from stock 2WD to plus 1.5" The block on a 4WD is 1 5/8". This shock will work for either on.

On the box it says 2" lift. The 4WD is lifted 1 5/8 higher than the 2WD. If I should want to put my block back in, I can use the same shock.
 
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